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Radiator drain plug ooops

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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 10:58 AM
  #16  
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I will say that the crescent wrench I use is smaller than my 8mm allen wrench, but like Jack says, it does apply torque to the wrong spot.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 11:21 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
I will say that the crescent wrench I use is smaller than my 8mm allen wrench, but like Jack says, it does apply torque to the wrong spot.
yeah---I've been using a Stanley adjustable wrench
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 01:23 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by KDAVID1
yeah---I've been using a Stanley adjustable wrench
6" craftsman that opens just wide enough to get on the drain.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 06:13 PM
  #19  
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I have been going about it all wrong i guess i just use my fingers.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 07:09 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 05F250DSL
I have been going about it all wrong i guess i just use my fingers.
I would but gave the strength of a mouse in my hands lol.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 07:30 PM
  #21  
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It probably helps that my radiator is less than two years old And the drain has been opened many times for disassembly, flushes and what not.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 07:33 PM
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I think the trick to the whole thing is to not tighten it up to much when your putting it in. All this plastic crap on new vehicles is pretty unforgiving about over torquing.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 07:50 PM
  #23  
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Amen. Wish they made something better.
 
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Old May 1, 2015 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
I think the trick to the whole thing is to not tighten it up to much when your putting it in. All this plastic crap on new vehicles is pretty unforgiving about over torquing.
Agreed. It seals by o-ring so it does not have to be tight. I suspect that it gets over torqued and some stress risers form at the thread root, just like what happened to the '03 oil rail fitting down in 'Orleans. With the initial dry high torque force when backing off the drain plug all in the OD hex area, pop it goes.

Having worked with a good number of auto engineers over the years and considering the plug has both the big outer hex and the inner Allen hex, the idea was it would be run up by hand using the hex, and torqued off by Allen. It could have been just knurled to promote that thought, but a hex is cheaper to mould. Or I'm totally wrong and this was the design by the new guy just out of school.
 
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