Anyone using kill switches?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,951
Likes: 512
From: Foothills, CA
I went through lots of DIY ideas and also wanted to not even have the truck turn over. In the end, what won out was the fact it had to be something #1 Simple to use, so that my Wife would use it.
I went with a Ravelco, they've been around a long time and what they do works.
I had several vehicles that I wanted secured (and wish I'd done more), so the area dealer (it is a regional protected area franchise operation), cut me a very nice deal on doing 3 cars...
Do your research and if you decide like I did, try that approach. I know some folks have even been able to get a discount on a single install...
I went with a Ravelco, they've been around a long time and what they do works.
I had several vehicles that I wanted secured (and wish I'd done more), so the area dealer (it is a regional protected area franchise operation), cut me a very nice deal on doing 3 cars...
Do your research and if you decide like I did, try that approach. I know some folks have even been able to get a discount on a single install...
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: Jasper, Texas
I haven't done this but a friend had a set-up like this in his Monte Carlo SS back when they were frequently targeted.
1. Install an appropiate amperage inline fuse in the ignition switch to the starter selenoid wire.
2. Install a SPST togle switch where ever you want in the cab.
3. Run a wire from the load side of the fuse to the in-cab togle switch.
4. Run a wire from the in-cab togle switch to ground.
With the togle switch in the OFF position everything should function as normal since the current will flow from the ignition switch through the fuse and to the starter selenoid. With the in-cab togle switch in the ON position any time that current is applied to the starter selenoid the fuse will blow. The starter will not function even if you turn the togle switch back to the OFF position.
You will need to install the inline fuse and in-cab togle switch in strategic yet convenient locations and make sure that you have replacement fuses.
One thing to consider, with the ignition on someone could jump the selenoid from underneath the truck with a screwdriver and start the truck.
1. Install an appropiate amperage inline fuse in the ignition switch to the starter selenoid wire.
2. Install a SPST togle switch where ever you want in the cab.
3. Run a wire from the load side of the fuse to the in-cab togle switch.
4. Run a wire from the in-cab togle switch to ground.
With the togle switch in the OFF position everything should function as normal since the current will flow from the ignition switch through the fuse and to the starter selenoid. With the in-cab togle switch in the ON position any time that current is applied to the starter selenoid the fuse will blow. The starter will not function even if you turn the togle switch back to the OFF position.
You will need to install the inline fuse and in-cab togle switch in strategic yet convenient locations and make sure that you have replacement fuses.
One thing to consider, with the ignition on someone could jump the selenoid from underneath the truck with a screwdriver and start the truck.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: Jasper, Texas
The "coil Voltage"; is that the power supplied on the CJB and the BJB to the relays? Also, will killing the voltage to the PCM cause any problems, re-learns, etc.?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
Yes you have that correct.
The PCM relay is off until you turn the key to ON.
Then it powers the things that are sleeping. Also
the starter needs a command from the PCM to turn.
Also the FICM relay is off until the PCM supplies power
to the coil of the relay.
The PCM relay is off until you turn the key to ON.
Then it powers the things that are sleeping. Also
the starter needs a command from the PCM to turn.
Also the FICM relay is off until the PCM supplies power
to the coil of the relay.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 165
Likes: 3
A really clever idea I've heard of is to adapt a headphone jack to be your hidden switch. Put it in the dash near the radio, in plain sight. A bit of wire in the male plug between the hot and the ground turns it into a "key" that completes the circuit.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 376
Likes: 0
From: South Dakota
Another idea is pair of cannon plugs. Works like Ravelco but cheaper. You can get them from Ebay pretty cheap depending on how many pins you want.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
potting compound in both sides so someone that has time can't find the
wires that need to ne connected. I might also take power from some place
and puit it on a pin that goes nowhere and also put in a few grounds.
Nothing like spark show when your probing around to slow things down.
Be sure to fuse the hot lines if they don't already have one. One could
also all a time on relay and hook it to a horn or better yet a pain generator
in the cab. Neat little things and I can tell you they are something you don't
sit in cab for long with them on.
https://www.amazon.com/Install-Essen.../dp/B0009SUEX6
Got 2 for my truck.
I should try and use one as an alarm clock alternative. I over sleep the thing so often.
But the potting compound need to be something hard and noncorrosive or conductive.
That is why I say a grey epoxy or really any dark color will do. Just want it hard to pick out
and hard to see through.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 376
Likes: 0
From: South Dakota
My thought was using a multi pin male bulkhead cannon plug for the vehicle and a female inline that you take with you like Ravelco key. A male cannon plug is harder to find the right pin combination since you have to hold both end of the wire on the pins and then after you find the right combination, keeping them on it. JB Kwik weld works really good for a potting compound. Used it several times. Love the pain generator idea Yahiko.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,007
Likes: 0
From: Sterling, Va
Old style high beam floor switch! Half the people don't know what they are and no one thinks to look on the floor board/firewall. Our cop cars have a switch under the carpet that wont let you put it in gear until it's been pressed.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,472
Likes: 2
From: Southern Cal
When traveling last year, hotelling it across country, the ficm relay came out each night. The thought of a missing truck in the morning just necessitated the extra effort.
I know if anythings going to work daily, it has to be convenient.
Years ago, on one of my cars, I installed a factory antenna switch on my dash in an empty slot, thinking it would be overlooked.
I had a gal at work move my car but forgot to tell her about the switch.
When she came back in, I asked her if she moved the car? She said after nothing happened, a quick review and she flipped the switch and all worked.
So much for hiding the obvious.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 117
From: Upper Left Coast
Howdy,
I am considering directly powering the IPR -OPEN with a simple hidden switch.
That way everything would be powered and appear normal, the engine would crank normally, but since the IPR would be powered full-open, the HPO system would NEVER generate enough oil pressure to start the engine.
The only way the thief could start the engine would be to disconnect the plug to the IPR. I am thinking that they wouldn't take the time to even find it let alone know what the "problem" is.
To prevent cranking, the switch could be double-pole, double-throw and also remove power from the starter solenoid.
Even if they directly powered the solenoid, they'd find that the engine wouldn't start and move on.
Cheers,
Rick
I am considering directly powering the IPR -OPEN with a simple hidden switch.
That way everything would be powered and appear normal, the engine would crank normally, but since the IPR would be powered full-open, the HPO system would NEVER generate enough oil pressure to start the engine.
The only way the thief could start the engine would be to disconnect the plug to the IPR. I am thinking that they wouldn't take the time to even find it let alone know what the "problem" is.
To prevent cranking, the switch could be double-pole, double-throw and also remove power from the starter solenoid.
Even if they directly powered the solenoid, they'd find that the engine wouldn't start and move on.
Cheers,
Rick
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 65,938
Likes: 1,432
From: Millersville, MD
I too used cannon plugs (Revelco lookalike) but used all the same color wiring to REALLY make it hard to jumper.... before they make all the right connections fuses will blow. When I pull my end of the plug, ign doesn't even work. OK... which two of these wires are the right ones????? OOPS... sparks!!! - Then...nothing.