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That's what I was thinking.
I'd remove the VGT actuator/solenoid and manually work the vanes to confirm.
You will end up with oil coming out all over the engine if you do that.
The system is oil activated.
I knew I forgot a point last night with the oil cooler. Look at the recovery time.
If it fast then most likely your still good. But it it hangs in the high delta range
and you have good air flow them it may be time. Before you do check that
the radiator is clean of trans like mud and bugs that can block air flow.
VGT at 85% is normal at idle/no load. Numbers go down as rpm/load increases. Seems bassakwards I know...
I don't think anything is wrong with it but if you want to check, there is an inspection plug just above the solenoid, if you pull that you can see the linkage between the solenoid and unison ring. It won't move much in the driveway just revving the engine because there is almost no load but I believe it should move smoothly if you use a small pocket screwdriver to put pressure on it with the engine off.
I don't see any big issues with your numbers. One small thing is the EBP dropping 5psi just because the engine warmed up. Seems a little odd but maybe no big deal. Map, baro and EBP should all be within 1psi with the key on and engine off.
VGT at 85% is normal at idle/no load. Numbers go down as rpm/load increases. Seems bassakwards I know...
I don't think anything is wrong with it but if you want to check, there is an inspection plug just above the solenoid, if you pull that you can see the linkage between the solenoid and unison ring. It won't move much in the driveway just revving the engine because there is almost no load but I believe it should move smoothly if you use a small pocket screwdriver to put pressure on it with the engine off.
I don't see any big issues with your numbers. One small thing is the EBP dropping 5psi just because the engine warmed up. Seems a little odd but maybe no big deal. Map, baro and EBP should all be within 1psi with the key on and engine off.
My EGR system is stock and there's been a few times I've returned my truck back to the stock tune only to have off idle lag and stumbling for a bit with the smoke show. Then one day I decided to check some EGR parameters on my ScanGauge and sure as hell, the EGR was acting weird and not opening or closing when it should. My thought was that while running a custom tune the EGR gets turned off and so with a couple thousands miles on it, the soot may cause it to stick shut or get lazy for a while after returning the truck back to the stock tune. Or, it just needs to relearn. I've cleaned it a few times but I'm pretty much always guaranteed the hesitation and stumbling when I go from custom tune back to stock tune.
I guess what I'm saying is, maybe program in some EGR params on the ScanGauge and watch it for a while. On hard takeoff the EGR should snap shut if I understand correctly. And during an easy cruise it should be open and fluctuating a little. If you go to take off and the EGR isn't closing completely or most of the way then that would be a problem.
If the valve is closed then there should not be much soot getting to it
to drop out and coat it. Pull the valve and have a look at it. Also check
and see if you open it by hand if it snaps back.
OK, got it scanned. No check engine light, but have the following.
P0528 fan speed circuit no signal
P0113 IAT sensor circuit high input
P0272 cylinder 4 contribution/balance fault
P0299 turbo under boost
P0404 egr position fault
P0405 egr position sensor voltage too low
P0460 poor connection at fuel level sensor
P0472 exhaust pressure sensor low input
WTF. I bought a his truck from a ford dealer less than two months ago.
EDIT: also, on the way to work I notices that after the truck is driven a bit, the vgt will not go back to 85 unless the engine is shut down and restarted. Another thing, when the lag/stumble happened at a light today, I got a poof of white smoke until the turbos vanes shifted from 65 to 40.
Monitor reference voltage and see if maybe it shorting somewhere. It's the common power supplied to all the sensors and could account for most of the various codes. (Except for the contrabution/balance).
Monitor reference voltage and see if maybe it shorting somewhere. It's the common power supplied to all the sensors and could account for most of the various codes. (Except for the contrabution/balance).
Do like Rusty says. If you see the Vref acting funny then unhook the plug on the
EBP sensor. They can short out and drive people nuts. The other thing to check
are the chafing points on the harness, I think that there is a write-up in the
Tech Folder on that topic.
Thanks everyone. At this point, since I've only driven it 3000 miles since I purchased it last month, and the fact that I haven't even made a payment on it yet, I'm bringing it to the dealer I purchased it from to see what they are going to do. I cant afford to do all of this, especially since I put nearly 10k as a down payment on it.
Monitor reference voltage and see if maybe it shorting somewhere. It's the common power supplied to all the sensors and could account for most of the various codes. (Except for the contrabution/balance).
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