Especially since at least one of your canisters has been removed (Pink Circle). Its important to close this up as this runs back to one of the tanks IIRC.

 

As a caveat and rule of thumb, I always disconnect something, run the vehicle to ensure it doesn't change anything. If it does it gets reconnected, if it didn't change anything, I remove it gently (if possible) in case at a later date I figure out I need it for something but for the most part it gets junked.

 

The whole assembly comes off and just reattach said hose to the new fittin'?

 

Yessir! That's how I did mine as well.

 

You don't have to get the 90 degree fitting, the straight fittings are easier to find at the parts store, but in the back of my mind, the primary reason I do anything under the hood is to fix it, the secondary priority it to clear clutter and make ease of access.


As far as the electric choke, I guess y'all that are hating on the electric choke, don't know how to set one up, every carbureted vehicle I've ever owned (that's been a few in the past 44 years) I've converted to an electric choke. I will say that I have two settings marked on the choke body, winter and summer and will adjust them accordingly to the time of year (only because the summers here are so brutal), and generally roll these changes in with an oil change. However, I've never had anything but success with electric chokes. I typically find with the manifold heated chokes, and their associated age, something isn't working correctly and/or things start to leak. I, in my simple mind, like to eliminate variables. But again that is my opinion, just as everyone is free to have theirs.

 

Perhaps you would be good enough to illustrate (with pictures) to others here how this can be accomplished?

 

Do you happen to recall the thread size for said fitting? I really like the 90° also.

Where do you live? Our temps vary hugely, snowed on Sunday, now its time for 70° weather again.

 

Took a few pictures this morning, then I reread your post for the "lid". But here is a few







No baff, this is where the tube from my oil cap goes in, the other part of the Positive Crankcase setup. I guess it needs some kinds of filter. Not sure why its spitting oil back into the filter from the intake side

 

Thanks for the thought, but I have the lid and the base. However, my lid doesn't have the lettering anymore, so I need good pics I can take to someone to have it copied. Thanks.

 

Sure thing, I set my initial choke settings right out of the manual, tedious sure but a lot smarter guys than me figured this out


http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...406_manual.pdf


Pages 14-16


I mark the Winter setting (tick) with a Blue paint marker


And the Summer setting (tick) with a Red pain marker


During summer (typically 90s-100s) I turn it two additional clicks to the rich (clockwise)


(The pic here is not my carb but representative to what I do and a close approximate to my settings)


two quick pumps on the throttle (allowing choke to reset) and both vehicles I own now start up and run up every time. I do understand that in cooler climates the electric choke could cause the problem you describe, however here, vehicles don't cool off quickly, and if they do I've found my electric chokes have been able to recover in time

 

First picture:
I can't really tell what all of that *stuff* is, but I *think* they might be altitude solenoids. You do need to keep the round black valve. That is your canister purge valve (see "Third picture" below), and you need it to vent your gas tank and perhaps the carburetor fuel bowl.

Second picture:
Inside the red circle are EGR solenoid valves. If you are eliminating the EGR valve, you can completely eliminate those as well.

***To the right of the red circle, where the EGR solenoids are bolted, looks like a YELLOW strain Duraspark ignition box. Dust off the bottom of the ignition module and tell me what color that plastic tab is. If it is yellow, that means you have (had) a computer-controlled engine. And that would explain the extra solenoids in the First picture that most of these trucks DON'T have. That would mean that somebody "might" have replaced the original air cleaner with the "5.8 H.O." air cleaner. Post up a picture of the emissions diagram sticker that is on the radiator core support, and that will answer a lot of these questions.***

Third picture:
That steel line leads directly to your gas tank. As it is now, gas vapors are vented directly to your engine bay. Not only does this let dirty, unfiltered air in the gas tank, but your garage is going to smell like a gas station with it left open. DO NOT PLUG IT! Plugging it will pressurize the gas tank, and possibly even rupture it.

The steel gas line should have a rubber hose attached to it, and the rubber hose would then connect to the canister purge valve. That *might* be what the [top right] open port is for in your first picture. For the system to work properly, you need to go to a junkyard and get a charcoal canister and hook it back up. It bolts to that bracket on the side of the passenger's side inner fender. The charcoal canister will hold the gas vapors from the gas tank and carburetor fuel bowl when the engine is off and route the vapors back to the engine for burning (similar to the PCV valve) via the canister purge valve.


Why would you set the choke RICHER in the summer? I would think you would want it RICHER in the Winter, and LEANER in the summer?

 

For your air breather off the oreillys website, you "blow-by" oil that is getting sucked up into the filter element is probably enhanced, because you have no filter, but also typically blow-by signifies the rings on your cylinders are getting tired, causing oil to blow-by and end up in the filter element.


MicroGard - Breather Element

Part # 42992

 

I don't have them handy but almost positive it is a 1/2", but to save a trip, I pull it first and drag it down to the parts store in hand, if you plan on ordering it, I would verify online, but about 98 percent on that

 

Sweet! Thank y'all do much! I would rather spend $10k on a truck I built (with yalls help) rather than $10k on an unknown used truck.

I will follow up after work. And my meeting with our wedding planner :-P

 

Wedding planner???? Congrat's!!!!