Bad Injector?
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From: Bowling Green, OH
Bad Injector?
Occasionally when I'm driving, I'll accelerate and get a brief loss of power, then it'll pick back up, followed by a puff of white/blue smoke. This usually happens when the oil is over 120*, but not quite to full operating temps. It doesn't happen every time either. Only 3 times in the past week. Otherwise, there is a very faint haze of white smoke that seems to be constant. It is very difficult to see unless against a dark background. Oil level is good, I check it once a week, no rising or lowering levels.
I pulled the EGR yesterday, all good, although a tad dirty. Cleaned up no problem. Haven't had a chance to do a bubble test yet. There are some DTCs, but I can't remember off the top of my head what they were. I'm about to go clean the inside of the truck, so I will pull those and update in a few minutes.
Appreciate any thoughts before I take it up to the dealer. Let me know if you need any more info besides what's in my signature. Truck has about 148,500 miles.
Thanks!
Edit* Torque Pro lists these codes: C1145, P0299, P0677
I pulled the EGR yesterday, all good, although a tad dirty. Cleaned up no problem. Haven't had a chance to do a bubble test yet. There are some DTCs, but I can't remember off the top of my head what they were. I'm about to go clean the inside of the truck, so I will pull those and update in a few minutes.
Appreciate any thoughts before I take it up to the dealer. Let me know if you need any more info besides what's in my signature. Truck has about 148,500 miles.
Thanks!
Edit* Torque Pro lists these codes: C1145, P0299, P0677
Last edited by bthr22; Apr 26, 2015 at 01:21 PM. Reason: Fault Codes
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,832
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From: Jersey Shore
Right front ABS sensor output fault, low boost, and glow plug #7 failure.
Hopefully you didn't drop a GP tip. The EGR valve can stick open a little and cause smoke even when they look good. You might have a failing injector that is not coding yet.
Hopefully you didn't drop a GP tip. The EGR valve can stick open a little and cause smoke even when they look good. You might have a failing injector that is not coding yet.
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From: Bowling Green, OH
How difficult would that glow plug be to pull and replace? I hope it wouldn't be as involved as pulling an injector.
That abs code would explain the intermittent abs light. And low boost I'm sure is because I need to replace the CAC boots. I have a set of riff raff boots ready to order, which I suppose I should do soon.
That abs code would explain the intermittent abs light. And low boost I'm sure is because I need to replace the CAC boots. I have a set of riff raff boots ready to order, which I suppose I should do soon.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,833
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From: Jefferson, Iowa
Bad Injector?
what is your max boost, up a hill wot? watch vgt while driving, see if it hits 15 or 85 percent. Also clean your map sensor and ebp sensor. make sure the tube and nipples are clean.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,832
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From: Jersey Shore
The glow plugs are done without pulling the valve cover, but you should get the tool for hooking on the boots, and even with that some have broken the boots needing a new harness. Just take your time. If you've changed spark plugs you can change a glow plug. There are videos on you tube.
If a boot is cracked, usually bottom side at the turbo, you would have the low boost.
If a boot is cracked, usually bottom side at the turbo, you would have the low boost.
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From: Bowling Green, OH
I know the rubber boots have some cracks in them, because there is a fair amount of oil on them
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From: Bowling Green, OH
Help interpret these numbers
Was driving to work yesterday, oil temp was at 170*. Turning right from a stop sign, not accelerating hard, the truck dips in power three times in quick succession, each one with less loss of power than the last. Each time had a puff of white smoke. That was the only time there or back it happened. VGT was good, moving freely, although I did a hard acceleration onto the highway and it went to 85% and stayed there for maybe 15-20 seconds after letting off the throttle and maintaining speed. Not sure if that indicates slight sticking in the vanes or not. I didn't notice any difference in driving.
Then coming home, I watched the EGR numbers and noticed that on hard acceleration, the commanded value stays at zero, but the error value goes to 99. Does that indicate the EGR being forced open?
Then coming home, I watched the EGR numbers and noticed that on hard acceleration, the commanded value stays at zero, but the error value goes to 99. Does that indicate the EGR being forced open?
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