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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 01:34 PM
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Building engine tips.

Okay, so I did a compression test on my 351w and here's what I got.
1-130
2-129
3-128
4-118
5-117
6-129
7-125
8-130
I'm not sure if this is good or bad..but I'd like to rebuild it either way, I'd just like to know if these are indication of needing bored or not, the engine is completely stock, and I want to keep the intake and heads stock, just make them flow better and perform better, any tips or info on what I should do/ can do to get more out of it?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 67shorty352
Okay, so I did a compression test on my 351w and here's what I got.
1-130
2-129
3-128
4-118
5-117
6-129
7-125
8-130
I'm not sure if this is good or bad..but I'd like to rebuild it either way, I'd just like to know if these are indication of needing bored or not, the engine is completely stock, and I want to keep the intake and heads stock, just make them flow better and perform better, any tips or info on what I should do/ can do to get more out of it?
What year model 351W? Is the intake 2-bbl or 4-bbl?

The stock 351W heads can be port matched for better flow but, they still aren't going to flow that great.

As far as factory iron heads go, the best factory iron heads to have would be from the 5.0L Explorers. Prior to 1997.5, the 5.0L Explorers had the 3-bar GT40 heads (basically the same as the '93 Cobra Mustang heads).

From '97.5-2001, the Explorer 5.0L heads used were the slightly improved GT40P 4-bar heads. Either one of these iron heads are vastly superior to any other Ford small-block iron heads --including the old 289 Hi-Po heads.

This is a set of Explorer 5.0L GT40P 4-bar heads I have --$50.00 bucks for the pair from the wrecking yard. Notice the 4 "bars" cast into the ends.





 
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ultraranger
What year model 351W? Is the intake 2-bbl or 4-bbl?

The stock 351W heads can be port matched for better flow but, they still aren't going to flow that great.

As far as factory iron heads go, the best factory iron heads to have would be from the 5.0L Explorers. Prior to 1997.5, the 5.0L Explorers had the 3-bar GT40 heads (basically the same as the '93 Cobra Mustang heads).

From '97.5-2001, the Explorer 5.0L heads used were the slightly improved GT40P 4-bar heads. Either one of these iron heads are vastly superior to any other Ford small-block iron heads --including the old 289 Hi-Po heads.

This is a set of Explorer 5.0L GT40P 4-bar heads I have --$50.00 bucks for the pair from the wrecking yard. Notice the 4 "bars" cast into the ends.





It's from a 1973 gran Torino and its a 2 bbl, so you say gt40 heads, will these bolt straight on with no modification and no changes? Cause if I get them heads off a 302, wouldn't I have to change intake too?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 67shorty352
It's from a 1973 gran Torino and its a 2 bbl, so you say gt40 heads, will these bolt straight on with no modification and no changes? Cause if I get them heads off a 302, wouldn't I have to change intake too?
Dimensionally, the GT40/GT40P heads are the same length/width/spacing as the 351W heads. They will bolt in place of the stock 351W heads, without changing the width between the heads where the intake will be.

A '73 351W will have (16) intake bolts vs. (12) for '77-up 351Ws. Pre '77 351Ws will have L-shaped water passages in the ends of the heads and will have 13/16" (18 mm) spark plugs. '77-up 351W heads will have rectangular water passages and 5/8" (14 mm) spark plugs.

If you're looking to improve engine performance, a 2-bbl stock intake and carburetor isn't a good way to get there. A decent dual-plane 4-bbl intake and a 4-bbl carburetor ~600 CFM will be a greater improvement, along with good flowing exhaust, mild cam and a rear end ratio in the 3.50:1 range.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ultraranger
Dimensionally, the GT40/GT40P heads are the same length/width/spacing as the 351W heads. They will bolt in place of the stock 351W heads, without changing the width between the heads where the intake will be.

A '73 351W will have (16) intake bolts vs. (12) for '77-up 351Ws. Pre '77 351Ws will have L-shaped water passages in the ends of the heads and will have 13/16" (18 mm) spark plugs. '77-up 351W heads will have reqtangular water passages and 5/8" (14 mm) spark plugs.

If you're looking to improve engine performance, a 2-bbl stock intake and carburetor isn't a good way to get there. A decent dual-plane 4-bbl intake and a 4-bbl carburetor ~600 CFM will be a greater improvement, along with good flowing exhaust, mild cam and a rear end ratio in the 3.50:1 range.
well, I'm going to go with gt40/p heads for sure (cause I'm cheap) and as far as intake, that'll be another day a couple months from now, maybe even years, but let's talk cam for a min, what's a decent can profile, I want something that I can just install and go, I don't really want to have to make modifications to valve to piston clearance, I want this to be simple yet very effective, and also? What do you think about those compression numbers? It was a dry test
 
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 03:02 PM
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The compression numbers are fine..... no outlyers and all within 10 percent of each other. Generally, "healthy".

 
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
The compression numbers are fine..... no outlyers and all within 10 percent of each other. Generally, "healthy".

Good to hear!! For this to be a 42 year old motor and I have those numbers, does this mean that those weren't hard miles? Rebuilt/re ringed, or does it mean absolutely nothing? Just good compression?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 67shorty352
Good to hear!! For this to be a 42 year old motor and I have those numbers, does this mean that those weren't hard miles? Rebuilt/re ringed, or does it mean absolutely nothing? Just good compression?
Engines can be worked hard and still have good numbers. It's all about maintenance like oil and oil filter changes, air filter replacements, carb tuning, and long periods of operation instead of short periods where contaminants aren't allowed to cook off.

I wouldn't rebuild it unless it is burning oil or leaking from every mating surface.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Engines can be worked hard and still have good numbers. It's all about maintenance like oil and oil filter changes, air filter replacements, carb tuning, and long periods of operation instead of short periods where contaminants aren't allowed to cook off.

I wouldn't rebuild it unless it is burning oil or leaking from every mating surface.
The only real reason I'm rebuilding is to gain a little more hp and torque. The stock 73 Torino 351w only had 153hp from what iv read online..and I'd like to get around 300-350 eventually, just so I can show out.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 67shorty352
The only real reason I'm rebuilding is to gain a little more hp and torque. The stock 73 Torino 351w only had 153hp from what iv read online..and I'd like to get around 300-350 eventually, just so I can show out.
I recall in 73 the figure is net HP.. with all driven accessories installed.

2x with ultraranger's recipe for improving HP and TQ.

Be advised that GT-40P heads use P-specific headers that are slightly different than typical Windsor headers.. I understand non-GT headers will result in spark plug/boot clearance issues or something like that.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
I recall in 73 the figure is net HP.. with all driven accessories installed.

2x with ultraranger's recipe for improving HP and TQ.

Be advised that GT-40P heads use P-specific headers that are slightly different than typical Windsor headers.. I understand non-GT headers will result in spark plug/boot clearance issues or something like that.
Unlike previous Ford small-block heads, the revised plug angle on the GT40Ps only have a slight angle to them, compared to the very noticeable plug angle on other Small-block Fords.

There are headers designed specifically for GT40P heads, because of their plug angle (or lack of as much angle). However, many (but not all) regular 302/5.0L headers will fit the GT40P heads IF 90° angled plug boots are used.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ultraranger
Unlike previous Ford small-block heads, the revised plug angle on the GT40Ps only have a slight angle to them, compared to the very noticeable plug angle on other Small-block Fords.

There are headers designed specifically for GT40P heads, because of their plug angle (or lack of as much angle). However, many (but not all) regular 302/5.0L headers will fit the GT40P heads IF 90° angled plug boots are used.
Is the deck height on the 351w intake manifold the same as gt40p and gt40 heads?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 67shorty352
Is the deck height on the 351w intake manifold the same as gt40p and gt40 heads?
The heads do not change the "deck height". The deck height is the block. The GT40(P) heads will fit on a 73 351W. You will need the newer model and/or aftermarket intake manifold Ultra mentioned above though. And not 1973 intake gaskets.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 07:46 PM
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Any "RV" cam will be a big improvement. Or go bigger.

What kinda driving are you doing? Summits line of cams are affordable and have grinds for most purposes. I'm running one in my Cleveland. It was almost identical to the edelbrock performer cam. Makes my truck run good with the matches carb/intake and cam.
 
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