2005 Escape 3.0 V6 AWD, 114k miles

Anyone have the compressor go bad?
I replaced the clutch only a few years ago, use A/C Pro for recharge and system was working fine. Here we are in Spring and of course the A/C acts up.

In MAX Cool, clutch cycles on/off for about 3 seconds each.
When I attached A/C Pro to check pressure, could not get a good read due to short clutch cycle. Starting adding for about 10 seconds and got lots of growling then smoke...turned all off right away.

Is it possible the compressor is failed; bearing/vanes, whatever is inside? ...causing the clutch to disengage almost immediately with every "on" cycle?

Forum Search did not reveal any real compressor issues, just clutch issues.
Thoughts? Thank you.

 

Either high of low pressure can cause clutch cycling issues. Refrigerant is what carries the oil in the system so if your low on charge, your also low on oil.

 

The initial short-cycling symptom was due to a low charge condition.

My guess is you added refrigerant that hit the compressor as a liquid (inverted can) and you blew the compressor.

 

Ski, you will not lose much of the oil via a leak in the system. You just won't have the oil that is there being circulated as well with a low charge. It will sit in the accumulator or bottom of the condenser rather than being picked up by the refrigerant. It doesn't take much oil to get a leaky fitting coated with dirt that 'stays'.
As far as the compressor, I would want to watch what happens with the engine running and having someone else activate the A/C. If you are getting smoke, it is possible that the clutch is slipping, or the belt. I'd want to watch the clutch 'center' section to see if it rotates along with the pulley when the A/C is energized. If the center of the clutch does not turn, I would suspect a locked up compressor. If it 'sort of' slips and catches up to the pulley now and again, I'd suspect a clutch needing adjustment or replacement. Before replacing the clutch, I'd want to crawl underneath or from the wheel well, turn the center of the A/C clutch manually through several revolutions to see if it was binding or rotated relatively freely.
In short, it could be a bad clutch, mis-adjusted clutch{due to wear, needing shims moved or clutch replacement}, or a bad compressor. Odds are pretty low that it seized due to lube loss, in my opinion. Note: I have been wrong, so inspection by yourself or mechanic is advised before throwing money at the vehicle.
tom

 

Doesn't that depend on the size of the leak? A larger leak take more oil with it as it leaks than a small leak?

I've read lots of theories about oil loss, to add or not to add and POE use with mineral oil.

 

You can lose a lot of oil if the refrigerant comes out pressurized through a 'blowout'. Forms a foam that 'melts' and leaves an oily residue. Watched a HPCO let go on a Ranger with black death. Big mess, too.
I was referring to the smudges of oily dirt that form where a snap-lock connector has a seeping refrigerant leak. The oil will come out and lay on the tubing/connector and get dirty from road dirt, and will just stay. Doesn't take too much to make a good sized dirt spot.
I have read in the shop manual[old paper one] to add oil to a system based on which component was replaced, and to distribute the replaced oil around in the components before they are connected and the system sealed up.
I am not a professional HVAC tech, so take it all with a largish grain of salt. Do your due.
tom

 

I've read about the amount of oil per component as well. I replaced a accumulator during a conversion, even drill a hole in it, wasn't a drop of oil and never even a drop on the ground before that.

I guess "proper" flushing is the only way.

 

Thanks for your troubleshooting feedback details on clutch rotation vs compressor, this is what I was looking for... Rain now in my area so will have to wait for clearing before taking this step. Will report back...

 

Fair comment. Can was upright. Directions say to rotate the can 90 degrees every ~15 seconds.

Aftermarket Ford shop diagnosed; compressor and manifold shot. $1275 estimate. Fun.

 

If you went low end equipment, you could buy all needed for a job like that in the future plus parts you need now for less.

 

Assessment:
Compressor failure due to fan assembly failure. Two fans in this thing. Wired in series for low speed, Fan 1 blown, so Fan 2 didn't work either. High speed is wired parallel and only Fan 2 would run. Thus, when AC ON, no fan support resulting in high pressure in system, stressing seals, etc.
The manifold showed positive signs of leakage.
Also found sludge-y type material on the screen between the low and high pressure side but no metal. Fingers crossed.

(Even with fan assembly failure, no apparent sign of engine temp issues. I don't drive this rig often but temp gauge was right on. Maybe that symptom would have shown up this summer.)

New compressor, manifold, fan assembly and charge. Works normal. Don't ask the price. The Shop saved all the parts and showed me all the details. I appreciated the learning experience.

 

The fans are disabled whenever you drive over 30-35 mph, more or less. If the engine temp gauge showed little 'over heat' condition, I'd suspect that the airflow over the condenser was adequate. If there is no heat being transferred from the condenser to the ambient air, then you won't get any cooling, or little. The system pressures would be higher, but there's an over pressure switch on the compressor to prevent it from 'working too hard'. I guess I am over-guessing the diagnosis that was done. I do not doubt the fan problem existing, but would not blame it for compressor failure. Personally.

tom