Is there a write up w/ pics on How to identify and test the Glow Plugs and Controller on a "06" 6.0L.

Thanks
Rich

 

what code if any do you have? the 06 will toss dtc's when they fail.
testing is basic easy stuff for the plugs themselfs. just disconnect the bus bar and ohm them out to battery ground through the buss bar. this checks the wiring to them and the glowplug itself. should be 2-3 ohms at the bar connector. if that test good suspect the controller.

 

let me know if you need the diag steps for the gpcm still. if so I will post them.

 

Thanks for the reply,
I have a scan guage II but don't think it's capable of pulling those codes.
When I do scan for codes it say's all clear...no codes.
If it does throw codes for the glo plugs, will it set the cel ?
Truck runs great, i'm very happy with it,
I just want to test glo plugs and controller to make sure all are good,
I'm trying to trouble shoot a 5-6 sec crank before start
If you would post the diag steps that would be great ,

Thanks
Rich

 

Do you have an inductive ammeter?

If so, install an inductive ammeter on one bank at one of the two harnesses at the Glow Plug Controller Module (GPCM). You can get up to 200 A at first, but then should stabilize around 35-45 A. Check the other bank with the inductive ammeter. Both sides should read the same. If not, check the amps to each individual glow plug to determine which one (or ones) is bad. Each glow plug should draw 10-12 Amps.

Also - you can disconnect the glow plug harness and test the resistance of each plug. Each plug should read 0.1 to 1 ohms resistance IIRC. The harness should read 0 to 1 ohm resistance.

On each glowplug, there is a 4-pin connector at the end of each harness. To find the connector, just follow the glowplug harness, it will be near the top of the valve cover. Disconnect the connector. Go to the componet side of the harness (the side that is connected to the glowplugs) and take a voltmeter and set it to ohms. Then one lead will go to ground ( the battery - post) and the other will go to any of the four pins on that connector. Check each of the 4 pins to ground and all should be around 1.0 ohm. If you see any that are high then replace the glowplug.

Note:There is a ring at the bottom of each connector. Wrap a piece of 16 gauge wire around the ring and then yank the wire with a pair of pliers.

edit - here is another "angle"

Both plugs on the Glow Plug Control Module have leads that supply the amps/power to all the glow plugs ( pin#'s 1,2,6 & 7 of both GPCM connectors feed to each bank of GP's). Both GPCM plugs have a #10 black wire with orange strip/tracer. These are the main 'power' wires coming from the passenger battery. They actually tie together with "fuseable links" to a #6 red battery cable to the passenger battery. You can clamp your amp meter over the red cable and see the total amp draw going to the GPCM with KOEO. You can also verify the GPCM is receiving B+ voltage at pin#9(small dia. solid red color lead) of black connector on GPCM. It should have B+ voltage with KOEO(Key On Engine Off).
The glow pug wire harnesses have quick disconnects at top side of valve covers and you could disconnect them and conduct ohm readings of each individual glow plug, as well as test for any open circuits.

You can also check for input, continuity and any shorts between the 2 input feeds from the PCM to the GPCM 'green' connector: The PCM provides input to GPCM thru PCM pin#'s 3(GPE) and 17(GPD) of J1-C2 connector to GPCM 'green' connector pin#'s 8 and 9. So, to recap:PCM #3 goes to GPCM green #8 and PCM #17 goes to GPCM green connector #9.

These check points should verify the functionality of the Glow Plug operation.

 

Many thanks to cheezit and bismic for great info, and jumping in to help.
I have a Fluke clamp-on Ammeter ,so i'll be busy .
Rep's to both..
Rich

 

Is it the same method as described above to test the 7.3L glow plugs? I realize the pin #'s will likely be different.
I just bought my truck yesterday and it runs very well but today it wouldn't start until I plugged in the block heater for 4 hours. I live in Phoenix and it was over 70 today and it still wouldn't start mid-afternoon without the heater.
I guess I should have known it had problems when it was warm when I tested it yesterday. Live an learn!!
Thanks

CrazyKen