egr delete/bypass
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2015
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From: pennsylvania
egr delete/bypass
its a 1989 f150 5.0 auto, im installing a set of hooker long tube headers. is there a way to delete/bypass the egr setup. the smog pump can stay but i think the smog and egr is why im having issues getting the truck running right. its a farm vehicle so i can legally remove it, but dont want to **** off the truck in the process.thanks
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
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From: Kentucky
The EGR on the 5.0L truck engines connects to the lower intake manifold, adding headers has no effect. What issues are you having that leads you to believe deleting the EGR is going to fix it?
If there is any merit on deleting something it's the smog pump and it's associated valves, tubes and vacuum lines.
If there is any merit on deleting something it's the smog pump and it's associated valves, tubes and vacuum lines.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2015
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From: pennsylvania
i have a miss that i have been told is caused by a vacuum issue. i replaced the vacuum lines and still have the miss. and the tube connected to the exhaust has been broken off since i got the truck, so i figure it doesnt do much good.
the smog pump is part of the serpentine belt setup so it needs to stay but the rest could probably go, but i notice the heads have a tube off the back that runs to another tube, a friend said to cap them off at the y behind the intake manifold.
as for the miss ive replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, icm, pip, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, and headers. the miss is a sputter that gets worse and stumbles on its face, and the new #2 plug was crudded when i pulled them to put the headers on.
the smog pump is part of the serpentine belt setup so it needs to stay but the rest could probably go, but i notice the heads have a tube off the back that runs to another tube, a friend said to cap them off at the y behind the intake manifold.
as for the miss ive replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, icm, pip, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, and headers. the miss is a sputter that gets worse and stumbles on its face, and the new #2 plug was crudded when i pulled them to put the headers on.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
That tube on the back of the heads cannot be left open like that, it will cause an extreme lean condition which will make the motor stumble badly under any kind of load. Remove it and cap the holes in the heads with 5/8 x 1" coarse thread bolts with copper washers to seal, this area is exposed to very hot exhaust so silicone won't last.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2015
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From: pennsylvania
another idea, i was kinda eyeballing the plate on the back of the heads while putting the headers on, and noticed the bolt pattern was off set. what if i take that plate off, cut the tube and flip the plate upside down. will that cover the hole?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kentucky
No...get some bolts as previously suggested.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 796
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From: Minnesota
I did the plate swap thing to mine back in 2008. Still working good. You can take the vacuum lines off the emissions solenoids. Cap off the lines and leave the electric part hooked up. Then you can take off your smog pump and lines. Install a shorter belt. Did that too in 2008. I don't get an engine light either.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 30
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From: pennsylvania
does the hole need to be tapped to put the bolt in. i cant see or feel any threads, but it is full of carbon. ive been scraping it and figured id ask for opinions. thanks
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