2011 F-150 Problem Wiring Up Aftermarket Stereo - No Power to Unit
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 84
Likes: 1
I'm glad someone finally tracked down an answer, hopefully, to why I am pulling my hair out over this. I would think that the F-250 and the F-150 have the same fuse panel and location. One thing I've found is that new cars and trucks all have generic wiring harnesses and panel locations. It's cheaper and faster for the manufacturer to build these things. Everything becomes plug and play and harness plugs that are not needed are just capped and left alone.
That said, I left my stereo wired directly to the battery the way I had it when I started this mess. Now I'm also thinking of swapping my new stereo for a new, new stereo. Not sure just yet but Crutchfield has a neat looking touch screen stereo that would link up with my Samsung wonderfully and all the nav apps will show up right on the screen. Not sure if I want to drop 5 bills though.
That said, I left my stereo wired directly to the battery the way I had it when I started this mess. Now I'm also thinking of swapping my new stereo for a new, new stereo. Not sure just yet but Crutchfield has a neat looking touch screen stereo that would link up with my Samsung wonderfully and all the nav apps will show up right on the screen. Not sure if I want to drop 5 bills though.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Just finished up a similar install yesterday on my 2011 F250. Pioneer double DIN with backup cam. Installed and wired it up using the Metra 95-5812 kit and 70-5520 respectively. First time I have gotten pretty annoyed installing a system and I lay pretty much all that on Metra.
On the install kit, the directions tell you NOT to cut off the rear set of mounting ears for our trucks and say nothing about using the four included spacers for our application. You have to cut off the rear four ears, snap the included spacers into the rear of the front set of mounting ears use their included 4 longer screws AND add four washers because the head of their four included screws are too small in diameter. As you tighten the screws down without washers, the heads of the screws themselves will spread the forks of the front ears and lift your socket off the head before they fully tighten. The screws at that point are only tightening down on the snapped-in spacers or air anyway. Use washers.
On the wiring harness, as others have said, there are issues. The orange illumination wire and red 12v switched wire in the Metra harness adapter go to nothing on the Ford radio harness side. I actually went and got another stereo believing the first was DOA(I could hear it whirring but the panel never came up.) The second stereo did the same thing and then I started seriously looking at it and found the above. The yellow constant 12v and ground are live using the Metra harness and that is why the stereo does a baseline cycle I believe. I called Metra and had not even fully gotten the above out of my mouth and the rep says "on your application you have to source your own 12v switched - it says it in the directions." I said really - where is that? Short version it does not mention this anywhere in any directions attached to this wiring harness adapter. I picked up the 12v switched you have to have at the cut and sealed bundle behind the parking brake pedal. The wire you want(as already mentioned) is the WHITE/VIOLET(white with violet stripe) wire.
As a curious side note, there is a lone additional wire on the Ford side radio harness(not used on the Metra side) on the bottom row that is a switched 2.5v feed. Who knows what that is.
I have yet to hook up the reverse 12v feed to activate the camera in reverse, I am just hand switching to the rear cam on a case-by-case basis from the menu.
If anyone knows where a head unit close reverse 12v feed is, please post it up.
Thanks
ss
On the install kit, the directions tell you NOT to cut off the rear set of mounting ears for our trucks and say nothing about using the four included spacers for our application. You have to cut off the rear four ears, snap the included spacers into the rear of the front set of mounting ears use their included 4 longer screws AND add four washers because the head of their four included screws are too small in diameter. As you tighten the screws down without washers, the heads of the screws themselves will spread the forks of the front ears and lift your socket off the head before they fully tighten. The screws at that point are only tightening down on the snapped-in spacers or air anyway. Use washers.
On the wiring harness, as others have said, there are issues. The orange illumination wire and red 12v switched wire in the Metra harness adapter go to nothing on the Ford radio harness side. I actually went and got another stereo believing the first was DOA(I could hear it whirring but the panel never came up.) The second stereo did the same thing and then I started seriously looking at it and found the above. The yellow constant 12v and ground are live using the Metra harness and that is why the stereo does a baseline cycle I believe. I called Metra and had not even fully gotten the above out of my mouth and the rep says "on your application you have to source your own 12v switched - it says it in the directions." I said really - where is that? Short version it does not mention this anywhere in any directions attached to this wiring harness adapter. I picked up the 12v switched you have to have at the cut and sealed bundle behind the parking brake pedal. The wire you want(as already mentioned) is the WHITE/VIOLET(white with violet stripe) wire.
As a curious side note, there is a lone additional wire on the Ford side radio harness(not used on the Metra side) on the bottom row that is a switched 2.5v feed. Who knows what that is.
I have yet to hook up the reverse 12v feed to activate the camera in reverse, I am just hand switching to the rear cam on a case-by-case basis from the menu.
If anyone knows where a head unit close reverse 12v feed is, please post it up.
Thanks
ss
Last edited by subysouth; Nov 6, 2016 at 10:15 AM. Reason: typos
New User
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Seattle
I went through the same crap with the metra harness and adapter plate. I actually ended up losing one of the stupid plastic spacers so I just gorilla glued washers on the both sides haha.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 4
From: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
I just connected an aftermarket GPS so it comes on/off automatically with ignition. Instead of f'ing with Ford wiring harness, just ran a cable thru the firewall to the power distribution box under the hood, using a male terminal lug and inline fuse holder. There are lots of easily accessible points that are live only with ignition on...get out your lightbulb tester. Easy to find one and if you have a future warranty electrical issue, just unplug it before going for service.
Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
Man, this is the thread I needed...was about to return my new stereo to Best Buy. I too, used the Meta 70-5520 wiring harness, but cannot get my stereo to turn on. Guess I'll have to find a hot wire. What about using the "Power Antenna" wire, since I don't have a power antenna, would that work?
Also, has anyone with a 2011-2016 F-250 found where to tap into the reverse activation wire (or whatever it's called)? I just installed a backup camera earlier tonight, hardwired camera into backup light, now need to figure out where to run wire from stereo.
Also, has anyone with a 2011-2016 F-250 found where to tap into the reverse activation wire (or whatever it's called)? I just installed a backup camera earlier tonight, hardwired camera into backup light, now need to figure out where to run wire from stereo.
New User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
All just to contribute to this thread since I had to go through the installation of an ATOTO A6 with rearview camera on my Ford F-150 2012 XLT this weekend. Overall, a very smooth process except a clear realization that not all wires on the factory harness matched up with the stereo harness. As stated above, the ignition/switch wire and illumination/dimmer wire are not found in the factory harness.
I managed to find the ignition/switch wire by going under the steering wheel (contrary to the parking brake others have specified) and found an unused factory harness that was not connected to anything. I am unsure if this is standard or was disconnected by a previous owner but it doesn't appear to cause any issues the fact it was unplugged. I used a multimeter to test each wire with the key in the ignition turned on. A small white wire was the ignition/switch wire. I cut it from the wire cluster and connected it to the red ignition/switch wire from my stereo unit.
Hopefully, this can help others who do a similar installation.
I managed to find the ignition/switch wire by going under the steering wheel (contrary to the parking brake others have specified) and found an unused factory harness that was not connected to anything. I am unsure if this is standard or was disconnected by a previous owner but it doesn't appear to cause any issues the fact it was unplugged. I used a multimeter to test each wire with the key in the ignition turned on. A small white wire was the ignition/switch wire. I cut it from the wire cluster and connected it to the red ignition/switch wire from my stereo unit.
Hopefully, this can help others who do a similar installation.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 84
Likes: 1
All just to contribute to this thread since I had to go through the installation of an ATOTO A6 with rearview camera on my Ford F-150 2012 XLT this weekend. Overall, a very smooth process except a clear realization that not all wires on the factory harness matched up with the stereo harness. As stated above, the ignition/switch wire and illumination/dimmer wire are not found in the factory harness.
I managed to find the ignition/switch wire by going under the steering wheel (contrary to the parking brake others have specified) and found an unused factory harness that was not connected to anything. I am unsure if this is standard or was disconnected by a previous owner but it doesn't appear to cause any issues the fact it was unplugged. I used a multimeter to test each wire with the key in the ignition turned on. A small white wire was the ignition/switch wire. I cut it from the wire cluster and connected it to the red ignition/switch wire from my stereo unit.
Hopefully, this can help others who do a similar installation.
I managed to find the ignition/switch wire by going under the steering wheel (contrary to the parking brake others have specified) and found an unused factory harness that was not connected to anything. I am unsure if this is standard or was disconnected by a previous owner but it doesn't appear to cause any issues the fact it was unplugged. I used a multimeter to test each wire with the key in the ignition turned on. A small white wire was the ignition/switch wire. I cut it from the wire cluster and connected it to the red ignition/switch wire from my stereo unit.
Hopefully, this can help others who do a similar installation.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 541
Likes: 37
From: Tulsa, OK
My understanding is that most new vehicles, regardless of manufacturer, have generic harnesses throughout that are dead ended. When you're dealing with millions of units, it saves money to have fewer different harnesses and just tap in to what you need. Doesn't help that as you've found out the wiring behind the stereo is not always as is stated. I've left mine hard wired out of pure laziness but one of these days I'll wire it up properly to another key on +12v. I also have a speaker issue in the driver's side front door (it cuts in and out) which I need to address as well. The truck is getting up there in miles and I may dump it off for something newer. It would be nice if the stereo and speaker worked properly.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 146
Likes: 2
From: Benton, Arkansas
Okay so the factory integrated stereo crapped out a few months ago. It would refuse to power on for whatever reason then out of nowhere it would come on while I'm driving, or after sitting for a while, whatever. It finally died altogether about two weeks ago. The clock was blinking (with the correct time), the compass and thermometer worked as usual but that was it. No satellite, no radio, no CD player. So I bought an aftermarket Kenwood double DIN from Crutchfield with the recommended PAC unit and the replacement dashboard kit.
The problem I have is when the PAC module is wired up the Kenwood harness and plugged into the Ford plugs from the stock stereo, I do not get power to the new stereo when the key is on. The red 12v accessory wire is dead. The yellow battery wires (constant 12v) for the memory is getting power though. I tried removing the negative battery cable for 15 minutes then reattaching it, turning the key on, then off after about 15 seconds, then on again but it didn't work.
The fuses are not blown. I was sent a replacement PAC interface but it did not fix the problem. I did not try swapping out the PAC unit wiring harness, just the small module itself.
When I splice the red 12v accessory wire to the yellow battery wire from the PAC harness, the radio works. Everything in the truck works as it should. The only thing I need to be aware of is that I have to power down the radio when I get out so I don't kill the battery.
Crutchfield Tech Support seems to think that if I swap the PAC unit wiring harness and the problem persists that it's an issue with the truck. One of the relays or some other part that tells the truck to send 12v to the accessory wires when the key is on must be malfunctioning and they think that is why the factory integrated radio stopped working. I've been told those radios have had issues from time to time and the radio internals were most always the problem child there.
My question is what are my options? The PAC unit obviously works somewhat I think because the speakers work, the satellite radio works, the CD player works and I the truck runs and operates like normal. The clock, compass and thermometer are NOT WORKING but I thought that was supposed to happen with an aftermarket install. That screen is totally blank.
The only two Ford harness plugs that were used with the PAC unit are the 21 pin and the smaller 10 pin that plugged into the back of the integrated stereo. The small 4 pin plug that used to control the volume, tuner and functions of the stereo was left out of the equation.
The problem I have is when the PAC module is wired up the Kenwood harness and plugged into the Ford plugs from the stock stereo, I do not get power to the new stereo when the key is on. The red 12v accessory wire is dead. The yellow battery wires (constant 12v) for the memory is getting power though. I tried removing the negative battery cable for 15 minutes then reattaching it, turning the key on, then off after about 15 seconds, then on again but it didn't work.
The fuses are not blown. I was sent a replacement PAC interface but it did not fix the problem. I did not try swapping out the PAC unit wiring harness, just the small module itself.
When I splice the red 12v accessory wire to the yellow battery wire from the PAC harness, the radio works. Everything in the truck works as it should. The only thing I need to be aware of is that I have to power down the radio when I get out so I don't kill the battery.
Crutchfield Tech Support seems to think that if I swap the PAC unit wiring harness and the problem persists that it's an issue with the truck. One of the relays or some other part that tells the truck to send 12v to the accessory wires when the key is on must be malfunctioning and they think that is why the factory integrated radio stopped working. I've been told those radios have had issues from time to time and the radio internals were most always the problem child there.
My question is what are my options? The PAC unit obviously works somewhat I think because the speakers work, the satellite radio works, the CD player works and I the truck runs and operates like normal. The clock, compass and thermometer are NOT WORKING but I thought that was supposed to happen with an aftermarket install. That screen is totally blank.
The only two Ford harness plugs that were used with the PAC unit are the 21 pin and the smaller 10 pin that plugged into the back of the integrated stereo. The small 4 pin plug that used to control the volume, tuner and functions of the stereo was left out of the equation.
I just recently put a pioneer stereo in my 07 sport trac, but it didn't have SYNC 1 so it was basically plug and play and steering wheel controls, back up camera everything works as it should.
New User
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Thank god for this thread! I've been scratching my goddamn brain for weeks trying to find this ACC wire. Plus saving me the effort when I get around to installing the rear camera I've been sitting on
1) I've wired the stereo's ACC and Constant wire together. You have to putt in / take out the fuse in the passenger kick panel which can be pretty annoying, ideally every time you plan to park for a few hours. If I left the fuse in, my battery would last about 5 days in the summer before it would die. In the winter, not even 2 days. I think leaving the fuse in puts unnecessary wear on the battery, so removing it is a good habit to be in. This is a good temporary stop-gap to install the radio and use it to your liking before you start the process of finding a free ACC wire that you can connect to the stereo.
2) Placeholder for my experience when I get around to wiring the ACC wire from under the steering wheel.
3) My plan for my rear camera setup was to splice into the rear brake light power wire as detailed in this video:
1) I've wired the stereo's ACC and Constant wire together. You have to putt in / take out the fuse in the passenger kick panel which can be pretty annoying, ideally every time you plan to park for a few hours. If I left the fuse in, my battery would last about 5 days in the summer before it would die. In the winter, not even 2 days. I think leaving the fuse in puts unnecessary wear on the battery, so removing it is a good habit to be in. This is a good temporary stop-gap to install the radio and use it to your liking before you start the process of finding a free ACC wire that you can connect to the stereo.
2) Placeholder for my experience when I get around to wiring the ACC wire from under the steering wheel.
3) My plan for my rear camera setup was to splice into the rear brake light power wire as detailed in this video:
New User
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
These trucks can get confusing. There are some basic "rules" when wiring them up that need to be followed. The rules are based on the truck year , make , model .and very important : TRIM LEVEL and the FACTORY RADIO THAT CAME WITH THE TRUCK..On base model trucks/fleet trucks with a base model am/fm radio without built in factory CD- the standard harness must be used. Ford Trucks with factory radio AND a built in factory CD newer than 2009 will almost always require an interface as the switched power is generated via the factory Data signal.
New User
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Here's a new kink to this solution. I had put in a new stereo with the Metra harness...didn't work at first...then it started to work. Had something else that I pulled the stereo out again for a bit and now it's back to not working again.
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2026
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Acc & Illumination wires
If it helps anyone, I ran a wire from a thicker blue wire (delayed 12V) to the radio ACC wire. This blue wire powers the power windows after the key is off before the door is open, but also runs towards the back of the cab on the driver side under the plastic kickpanel (with all the other wires in that plastic guide wrapped in electrical tape). For the radios illumination wire, I tapped into the hazard button's illumination wire (purple with grey stripe). ~11 F150
Last edited by GeneralBones; Feb 6, 2026 at 10:45 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TheCoach
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
Jan 11, 2015 12:31 PM
78fourby4f250
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
13
Jun 6, 2012 07:30 AM
SkyDragonbane
Audio & Video Systems, Navigation, Satellite Radio & Mobile Electronics
2
Aug 10, 2003 11:23 AM
cigarxtc
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Jan 2, 2002 07:02 PM