All right guys, I have been searching this forum for what I have been doing wrong and cannot figure it out. I pulled out my Pioneer stereo from my 2004 before trading it in for the new 2012. From all my research and all, it should hook right up but I cannot get a switchable power supply at the harness. I can find one in the harness for the heater but do not want to cut into that one. What have you other Truckers done? Need help! Here is the wire harness I am working with. The Red is suppose to go the the swichable power, yellow to constant and black to ground. The red from the stereo to the harness wire will NOT power the unit. I can get the stereo working if I put the red wire to the constant (yellow) but then the stereo will not turn off. Help please!

 

There is no switched power in the harness because of the can bus interface. Either use a Pac interface or pull switched power from the smart junction box .

 

I'm having a problem with my PAC interface in that it is not receiving a signal to produce +12 on the red ACC wire and I can't seem to figure out why. Right now I have the ACC wire spliced in with the constant 12v yellow wire but I'm more interested in getting it fixed. Also because I no longer use the stock radio controls, the information dash over the hazard, traction control, airbag light is blank all the time. No compass and no thermometer. I want to get those two hooked up again. I don't know why when I bought the PAC unit it didn't come with all the required wiring harnesses so that all the factory plugs had a home to plug in to.

I'd like some help on this as well 2011 F-150 XLT that had factory integrated stereo. The reason I replaced the factory stereo is because it was cutting out intermittently. It would lose power and the clock on the dash would flash the time. Sometimes it came back on, sometimes it didn't for a day or two or more. Then it cut out and stayed out for about a week. This has been happening on and off for a few months and someone on this site had told me it was a problem with the radio internals. I assumed that meant the actual stereo but now I'm being told by some it could be a problem with the data bus.

 

I put in a aftermarket stereo this weekend on my 2012. My truck had the base system with sync. I did not use a PAC system so I used an add a circuit and ran a wire from fuse number 38 in the fuse box behind the passenger kick panel for the switched power. This is the delayed accessory slot on my truck . The factory screen still shows compass and temperature and now Built Ford Touch is always displayed

 

That looks great, can you provide details on how you incorporated the stock stereo plugs? There is the small four pin plug that controlled the stock HU's volume, source, clock, presets, etc. Then the 16 pin and I believe a 22 pin (the 22 pin has all the speaker wires, ground, constant +12, etc.). I can't really figure out what the 16 pin is supposed to do either. My screen is totally blank. No compass, no temperature and no Built Ford Tough on start up. Nothing.

Thanks, again a great looking install.

 

I only used the harness for the 22 pin connector and pulled the switched power from the fuse box. When I first tested the stereo before plugging the climate control and the hazard and traction control harnesses back in, the top display was blank. After putting everything back together then the original display showed the compass, temp and built ford tough. So the harnesses I had leftover were the ones that plug into the original stereo controls and the other harness that plugged into the back of the original stereo. I did nothing with these and only worked with the 22 pin

 

Thanks, japrine, the more and more I think about it, the more I'm beginning to believe I have a data bus issue. Did you splice into the factory wires? Or use a modified harness to plug into the 22 pin factory plug? My truck is sounding all jacked up right now. All I know is I have no warning or check engine lights on, the stereo works because I'm pulling power off the constant +12, the original display is black and I'm pissed off.

Thanks again

 

I used a harness like in the photos the OP posted. The only thing I had to splice was my switched power. I used a siriusxm adapter to connect to my unit and was able to used the factory satellite antenna

 

I'm going to try like you did and disconnect one of those harnesses, leave the 22 pin connected, unplug the PAC unit and try to run a splice temporarily to something that has switchable +12v and see if that improves anything. Unfortunately my truck is being inspected Thursday so I can't go unplugging the battery now because I won't be able to drive it enough to reset the computer and have it pass.

 

*bump for others*