Bad Flywheel?
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Long Island NY
Bad Flywheel?
Hello all,
2005 ford expedition eddie bauer 144,000 miles.
Ive owned the suv for about a year and a half now. Since ownership, occasionally (every couple of months) the starter would screech when trying to start (same noise as when the car is running and you engage the starter by mistake). It sounds like its not engaging with the flywheel. It has gotten progressively worse over my length of ownership though. It now seems to be doing it once on every 5 - 10 starts.
2005 ford expedition eddie bauer 144,000 miles.
Ive owned the suv for about a year and a half now. Since ownership, occasionally (every couple of months) the starter would screech when trying to start (same noise as when the car is running and you engage the starter by mistake). It sounds like its not engaging with the flywheel. It has gotten progressively worse over my length of ownership though. It now seems to be doing it once on every 5 - 10 starts.
I made a safe assumption and changed out the starter about 4 months ago and it seemed to go away for about a week but then started screeching again shortly after (same as before). Ive heard that our flywheels rarely go bad but im thinking I might be in for a replacement. I think before i go that route, im going to inspect and clean the wiring connections as they look to be a little corroded. Any specific advice anyone could give before a labor intensive flywheel replacement? Any good easy way to inspect the flywheel other that from removing the starter (i could barely see anything from that point)?. The old starter that i removed was a replacement. Oh and the 3rd bolt was also missing as i hear they usually are. Ive replaced it along with the new starter. Its such a nice looking truck and its awfully embarrassing when the dang thing screeches like that.. Always at the worst time too!!
Thank you
Thank you
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
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Yes it does sound like you have a flat spot on the flywheel. It's just going to get worse to the point that you will get stuck sooner or later. First thing to do is confirm the damage by inspecting the flywheel for ground down or missing teeth. If you find them then I'd start planning on doing a flywheel change.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Long Island NY
Yes it does sound like you have a flat spot on the flywheel. It's just going to get worse to the point that you will get stuck sooner or later. First thing to do is confirm the damage by inspecting the flywheel for ground down or missing teeth. If you find them then I'd start planning on doing a flywheel change.
Fleet Owner
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From: 0,0,1
Remove the 2 bolts and inspection cover on the front lower portion of the bell housing. A ratchet and socket on the bolt inside the front main pulley will allow you to turn the engine and inspect the entire flywheel.
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Senior User
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From: Long Island NY
Thanks for your help, ill be sure to give an update
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Senior User
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From: Long Island NY
Thank you, no problems rotating with the belt on as you said.
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Yup im in need of a new flex plate for sure. If you care to, check out the video below.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oCq...ature=youtu.be
Anyone know the part number or name of that transmission line/s that might need to be disconnected? I figure better to purchase new and be safe than sorry later if it gets damaged or disconnected.
Thanks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oCq...ature=youtu.be
Anyone know the part number or name of that transmission line/s that might need to be disconnected? I figure better to purchase new and be safe than sorry later if it gets damaged or disconnected.
Thanks
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Senior User
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From: Long Island NY
Hope it fits as i saw an amazon review of someone complaining that it didnt.. Either way, ill find out.. Pioneer site says it does but they don't answer their tech support line..
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
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Yup, right around 28 seconds those ground down teeth are definitely your problem.
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Senior User
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So after getting some mind blowing quotes to change the flywheel with ME buying all the necessary parts, Ive decided to take it on myself.
Question, the nuts/bolts that hold the torque converter to the flywheel, does anyone know the torque value. Also the bell housing bolts? Not finding much on this..
Question, the nuts/bolts that hold the torque converter to the flywheel, does anyone know the torque value. Also the bell housing bolts? Not finding much on this..
Posting Guru
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Here's from my shop manual:
Flexplate bolts: 80 Nm (59 lb-ft), torque in a criss-cross pattern
Bell housing: 48 Nm (35 lb-ft)
Crossmember to transmission: 103 Nm (76 lb-ft)
Crossmember to frame: 90 Nm (66 lb-ft)
RH and LH Exhaust bolts: 15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
Exhaust hanger to crossmember: 40 Nm (30 lb-ft)
Dipstick tube: 12 Nm (9 lb-ft)
Cooling lines: 20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
Starter motor: 26 Nm (19 lb-ft)
Positive on starter: 12 Nm (9 lb-ft)
Control on starter: 6 Nm (53 lb-in)
Negative on starter: 23 Nm (16 lb-ft)
Torque converter bolts: 36 Nm (27 lb-ft)
Flexplate inspection cover: 34 Nm (25 lb-ft)
Bracket for shift cable: 25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
That's all the bolts that you need to touch for removing and installing the transmission, and to replace the flexplate. It doesn't specify to use any locktite on it. If I was gonna do this myself, I might consider some blue locktite, can't hurt right?.
Flexplate bolts: 80 Nm (59 lb-ft), torque in a criss-cross pattern
Bell housing: 48 Nm (35 lb-ft)
Crossmember to transmission: 103 Nm (76 lb-ft)
Crossmember to frame: 90 Nm (66 lb-ft)
RH and LH Exhaust bolts: 15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
Exhaust hanger to crossmember: 40 Nm (30 lb-ft)
Dipstick tube: 12 Nm (9 lb-ft)
Cooling lines: 20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
Starter motor: 26 Nm (19 lb-ft)
Positive on starter: 12 Nm (9 lb-ft)
Control on starter: 6 Nm (53 lb-in)
Negative on starter: 23 Nm (16 lb-ft)
Torque converter bolts: 36 Nm (27 lb-ft)
Flexplate inspection cover: 34 Nm (25 lb-ft)
Bracket for shift cable: 25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
That's all the bolts that you need to touch for removing and installing the transmission, and to replace the flexplate. It doesn't specify to use any locktite on it. If I was gonna do this myself, I might consider some blue locktite, can't hurt right?.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Long Island NY
Here's from my shop manual:
Flexplate bolts: 80 Nm (59 lb-ft), torque in a criss-cross pattern
Bell housing: 48 Nm (35 lb-ft)
Crossmember to transmission: 103 Nm (76 lb-ft)
Crossmember to frame: 90 Nm (66 lb-ft)
RH and LH Exhaust bolts: 15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
Exhaust hanger to crossmember: 40 Nm (30 lb-ft)
Dipstick tube: 12 Nm (9 lb-ft)
Cooling lines: 20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
Starter motor: 26 Nm (19 lb-ft)
Positive on starter: 12 Nm (9 lb-ft)
Control on starter: 6 Nm (53 lb-in)
Negative on starter: 23 Nm (16 lb-ft)
Torque converter bolts: 36 Nm (27 lb-ft)
Flexplate inspection cover: 34 Nm (25 lb-ft)
Bracket for shift cable: 25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
That's all the bolts that you need to touch for removing and installing the transmission, and to replace the flexplate. It doesn't specify to use any locktite on it. If I was gonna do this myself, I might consider some blue locktite, can't hurt right?.
Flexplate bolts: 80 Nm (59 lb-ft), torque in a criss-cross pattern
Bell housing: 48 Nm (35 lb-ft)
Crossmember to transmission: 103 Nm (76 lb-ft)
Crossmember to frame: 90 Nm (66 lb-ft)
RH and LH Exhaust bolts: 15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
Exhaust hanger to crossmember: 40 Nm (30 lb-ft)
Dipstick tube: 12 Nm (9 lb-ft)
Cooling lines: 20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
Starter motor: 26 Nm (19 lb-ft)
Positive on starter: 12 Nm (9 lb-ft)
Control on starter: 6 Nm (53 lb-in)
Negative on starter: 23 Nm (16 lb-ft)
Torque converter bolts: 36 Nm (27 lb-ft)
Flexplate inspection cover: 34 Nm (25 lb-ft)
Bracket for shift cable: 25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
That's all the bolts that you need to touch for removing and installing the transmission, and to replace the flexplate. It doesn't specify to use any locktite on it. If I was gonna do this myself, I might consider some blue locktite, can't hurt right?.
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