M5OD Problems
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Junior User
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M5OD Problems
So I've had the usual slave cylinder problems with this truck (93 f150, 4.9L m5Od). Replaced one every 1.5 years it seems (I'm getting super fast at it at least!). Anyways, this time I grabbed a OEM ford slave cylinder in December. Replaced the slave, the clutch hydraulic line, and filled the trans with synchromesh like most have switched to. Shifted great!
Now on warmer days it started to get harder to shift. Thought the master was going out so replaced it. Now she still shifts normally in the morning but in the afternoon, when it's warmer, its still hard to shift.
I can shift but I have to have the pedal to the floor board and force it into gear. Note: this is only when it is a warmer temperature. Any thoughts?
Now on warmer days it started to get harder to shift. Thought the master was going out so replaced it. Now she still shifts normally in the morning but in the afternoon, when it's warmer, its still hard to shift.
I can shift but I have to have the pedal to the floor board and force it into gear. Note: this is only when it is a warmer temperature. Any thoughts?
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Junior User
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Did some searching. Most other threads point towards a leak in the hydraulic system. I have no signs of any leaks. Could it be the synchromesh? Everyone else has had success with this stuff. It gets real hard to push into first at a stop.
Syncros looked good when I replaced the forks in December.
Syncros looked good when I replaced the forks in December.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: NoVa
Sounds like it's a clutch hydraulics problem, but...
When it is shifting well, what are the engagement and disengagement points on the pedal?
Put the parking brake on, push in the clutch, put it in gear, then let out the clutch and note when the RPM starts to drop. That's your engagement point. You want that off the floor some reasonable distance. (sorry, don't know what the specs are for this vehicle off the top of my head)
Disengagement is not as critical for this issue, but is important to prevent clutch slip and early wear.
Over on the Mazda forums, everybody swears by Ford XT-M5-QS Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid. Pricey, but worth it. Don't see any mention of it over on the forum though.
When it is shifting well, what are the engagement and disengagement points on the pedal?
Put the parking brake on, push in the clutch, put it in gear, then let out the clutch and note when the RPM starts to drop. That's your engagement point. You want that off the floor some reasonable distance. (sorry, don't know what the specs are for this vehicle off the top of my head)
Disengagement is not as critical for this issue, but is important to prevent clutch slip and early wear.
Over on the Mazda forums, everybody swears by Ford XT-M5-QS Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid. Pricey, but worth it. Don't see any mention of it over on the forum though.
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Joined: Jan 2015
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From: NoVa
What happens when you double clutch it shifting? Any improvement?
I mentioned the Ford synthetic trans fluid because the synchromesh gears in some of the Mazda transmissions appear to be sensitive to the fluid. Double clutching would also address that issue.
(kind of old school - if anybody is not familiar... Double clutch (technique) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)
I mentioned the Ford synthetic trans fluid because the synchromesh gears in some of the Mazda transmissions appear to be sensitive to the fluid. Double clutching would also address that issue.
(kind of old school - if anybody is not familiar... Double clutch (technique) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)
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I have the same issue except mine sticks going in first and second when cold. As the day goes it gets better but doesn't go away. Did a fluid change last weekend, ran it a bit found on the syncros are going. That why I purchased a zf5 to put in next month after I rebuild it. 
Lead Driver
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just cuz the synchros "look good" doesn't mean theyre not worn to death. the only way to tell entirely is to have a new synchro in hand for comparison, or having seen so many that its instilled into the brain as to what a good synchro looks like.
try "flicking 3rd" before going into first and reverse from a stop. thatll slow everything down with less load on the synchro, allowing first and reverse to go in easier. its typical with the mazda, and just about all other manuals, to adopt this trick after its been in use for a while.
doesn't mean you don't have other problems, but you can have a perfectly fine set of hydros and as the trans fluid gets hot, it becomes harder to get it into gear. A bottle of lucas can go a long way to help old synchros grab.
try "flicking 3rd" before going into first and reverse from a stop. thatll slow everything down with less load on the synchro, allowing first and reverse to go in easier. its typical with the mazda, and just about all other manuals, to adopt this trick after its been in use for a while.
doesn't mean you don't have other problems, but you can have a perfectly fine set of hydros and as the trans fluid gets hot, it becomes harder to get it into gear. A bottle of lucas can go a long way to help old synchros grab.
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In the morning, clutch engagement is "normal" to what Ive been used to for the past 6 years of having the truck.
Double clutching actually allows the trans to go in gear while hot. Doesn't necessarily make it really easy but it will go into gear to make it home. From a stop, I have to force it into 1st. I'll try "flicking 3rd" when I drive the truck tomorrow.
I guess I grab a bottle of Lucas tomorrow as well. Is there anything specific I need to get?
Double clutching actually allows the trans to go in gear while hot. Doesn't necessarily make it really easy but it will go into gear to make it home. From a stop, I have to force it into 1st. I'll try "flicking 3rd" when I drive the truck tomorrow.
I guess I grab a bottle of Lucas tomorrow as well. Is there anything specific I need to get?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: New Zealand
The firewall-flex problem that this era of trucks had, often was worse with the engine bay at higher temperatures.
The heat caused the firewall to flex more easily, reducing the effective master cylinder stroke.......& in turn, not disengaging the clutch fully.
Reinforcement plates are available.
The heat caused the firewall to flex more easily, reducing the effective master cylinder stroke.......& in turn, not disengaging the clutch fully.
Reinforcement plates are available.
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Joined: Jan 2015
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From: NoVa
The firewall-flex problem that this era of trucks had, often was worse with the engine bay at higher temperatures.
The heat caused the firewall to flex more easily, reducing the effective master cylinder stroke.......& in turn, not disengaging the clutch fully.
Reinforcement plates are available.
The heat caused the firewall to flex more easily, reducing the effective master cylinder stroke.......& in turn, not disengaging the clutch fully.
Reinforcement plates are available.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5,769
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Common problem on these trucks. For those that have manuals, it's worth it to do the preemptive research on the fix. For most people it's not a matter of if, but when.
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Joined: Jan 2015
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From: NoVa
For anybody interested, here's a link to the service bulletin
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...6&d=1302968152
Haven't been able to find the (inexpensive) Ford OEM part for my truck (E8TZ-7K509-A) but did find this one for $100: Terrapin Manufacturing
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...6&d=1302968152
Haven't been able to find the (inexpensive) Ford OEM part for my truck (E8TZ-7K509-A) but did find this one for $100: Terrapin Manufacturing
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