I have an 89 Ranger 2.3, 2wd, 5 spd. A couple of months ago the clutch went out so with the help of you guys on here I did the work myself and replaced everything clutch related except the master cylinder. I was proud of myself for doing that. I have been driving it since then but I have a small problem.

Ever since I did the work the truck is a bear to get into 4th gear, meaning I have to double clutch and then it will still grind, etc. It also doesn't go into 2nd extremely well but a lot better than 4th. I am trying to find the solution for the problem but don't really know where to start.

When I installed the new clutch and slave cylinder I obviously had to disconnect the quick-disconnect from the old slave cylinder. After I did all of the work I bled the system using the bleeder valve on the new slave cylinder. Is it possible air got into the master when I pulled the quick disconnect?

I am thinking the problem is either air in the master or the aftermarket slave cylinder isn't an exact replacement. How do I know positively if there is air in the system? I have a full clutch pedal and if I have the tranny in neutral with the clutch engaged, then push the clutch pedal down, it will go into 1st with no problem. 1st, 3rd, and 5th will all shift throughout the course of driving perfectly fine.

Can anyone help me out?

Thanks!!

Ryan

 

sounds like a problem with the transmission itself, my '93 had a similar issue with 2nd, was hard going into and out of 2nd, noisy when in 2nd. one day it just left completely, and by that i mean i no longer had 2nd gear!, i put a rebuilt trans in and its been fine since. i dont think its a hydraulic issue or you would have trouble with every gear, esp when putting it into 1st when stopped, engine running. you would know if you had air in the sytem by a lack of pedal, they are a major pain to bleed, the last time i had mine all apart, i bench bled the system, put in a new master and line to the trans. video of bench bleeding hyd clutch on ranger chassis trucks:
and heres some info on doing it with all the stuff still in the truck, i dont thnk your problem is air in the system, but theres some good info here, cant hurt:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...edclutch.shtml

 

Both 2nd and 4th are 'forward' throws of the linkage internally, using different shift forks, but the same 'lever'. It might be a good idea to check the linkage itself for wear or looseness.
If you can have the engine at idle, depress the clutch, and shift into 2nd and 4th without any grind or harshness, then the clutch is working properly. If you can start the engine, pedal depressed, in 4th and 2nd without trouble, the clutch is working.
If you cannot do the above, your clutch is not releasing properly. I read somewhere about a spacer put on some of the replacement slave cylinder assemblies to get the 'throw' of the slave piston into the proper range to operate the diaphragm 'fingers'. Too much play, or being at the extreme end of piston extension could leave the fingers just a bit from being depressed enough to release the clutch completely. It is just possible the 1st & 3rd synchronizer rings are a little less worn than 4th & 2nd. In my opinion, the 2nd gear synchro is the one that takes the most beating.
Finally, have you checked the level of lube in the transmission? If low, who knows what could be happening.
tom

 

I will do those checks this evening to determine if its the clutch. I put 3 fresh quarts of transmission fluid in while I had it out.

Thanks!!

 

So what does this tell you?

With truck running and clutch engaged in neutral- If I depress the clutch I can go into
1st, 3rd, or 5th with no grinding whatsoever.

Under the same circumstances shifting into 2nd or 4th I get grinding. If I push clutch in, wait several seconds, and then shift into 2nd or 4th there is no grinding. Does this indicate a syncro problem?

My only reservation about saying it's the syncros is it shifted perfectly prior to the clutch going out. The only thing I can figure is I had to drive it to my house when the clutch went out and had to shift with no clutch (matching rpm's to speed)and maybe this did something? However, I could always match it perfectly and get it to just drop into gear.

 

I don't know for sure if this is applicable, but some transmissions used automatic transmission fluid, while others stuck with the older 85W-90 type gear lube.
If you use the wrong lube, there may not be enough viscosity to slow down the gears between shifts, or after the clutch is engaged and the lever moved.
I would check that I'm using the correct lube. If you have the right stuff, then I'd say your having movement of the gizzards {input shaft, counter gear} that when you apply forward pressure on the sliding ring & the synchro, the gears move forward and push the clutch disk against the flywheel, causing the gears to spin. This does not happen in 1 & 3 because the ring slides rearward to engage the gear. 5th is way back and doesn't do anything with the input shaft.
I do not have another explanation. tom