Please help 01 7.3 a/c
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2015
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Please help 01 7.3 a/c
Need some advice on what to do to get my a.c running . The compressor clutch doesn't engage at all !!!! I'll switch the a.c on and off and the plate doesn't even pop in and out like it should . it moved one time just maybe just a hair and stopped . Do you guys think I need to buy a whole new compressor ??? Please help
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
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From: Mcdonough, GA
Read the Compressor clutch shim info here before spending money. May help
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...materials.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...materials.html
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 26
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Read the Compressor clutch shim info here before spending money. May help
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...materials.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...materials.html
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: carmichael, ca
And if low freon is the case, you'll need to find out where it's leaking from. Freon should stay in the system.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 391
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I had an issue much like yours driving home from the desert on a hot day. I found my problem was the a/c clutch would engage randomly. Turned out to be a wire going bad in the harness at the a/c clutch. If I were you I'd start the truck, turn the a/c switch to the on position, go under the hood and give the harness a few jiggles. If you have a frayed wire (as I did) the a/c clutch will chatter.
To go even further disconnect the harness from the clutch head on the passenger side of the a/c pump and check the wires with a meter with the a/c switch on.
To go even further disconnect the harness from the clutch head on the passenger side of the a/c pump and check the wires with a meter with the a/c switch on.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Dallas, Oregon
I test the A/C clutch by jumpering directly to the contacts on the pump with battery voltage. If the clutch works properly with the jumpers, it is a matter of finding out if the lack of power is from bad wiring, a bad sensor, a bad switch, or low freon.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Oakhust NJ Jersey Shore
More than likely your low on freon, there is a low pressure cut off switch to protect the compressor and there is a high pressure cut off switch to prevent the system from blowing up in case of an over charge or bad fan clutch, checking the freon is the first step. you can buy cheap gauges at pep boy's and the like, that way you always have them, because if the system is low you have a leak. they are sealed systems though I have seen compressors loose freon from the front seal slowly and a charge in the spring will last all summer. Check your condensor for any rocks or other damage that is very easily damaged sitting right behind the grill. Then you need to check for power going to the switches, check your fuses and the compressor diode. Just dont over charge the system. On a 60 degree day I would expect to see 50 psi on the low side and 200 on the high side, 134A is very sensative to charge level, it's best to do it by weight but you can get there by adding a little at a time till you have the proper cooling.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,340
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From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
OP, with all due respect, have the system serviced by someone qualified to work on it. At least have it diagnosed and evacuated (if needed) by a someone with the proper equipment. If parts need to be changed, maybe you could do that work then have a shop charge the system after.
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Freshman User
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OK guy so I made the jumper wires like you guys told me and bingo it engaged !!! Such a relief !!!!! Now what do I do ????? Think I have a bad connection ? I'm going to advanced to get a voltage checker !
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2012
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Your going to want to do an Ohms test for the two wires, it's relatively simple. Disconnect the connector at the a/c clutch, fallow the harness back to where it ties into the the main harness and disconnect it there too.
Next set your meter to read ohms, it has a symbol that looks like a horseshoe. IIRC there's only 2 wires for the a/c clutch, I can't remember off hand the color of each wire. Take your black lead and touch it to a contact in the a/c clutch connector. At the other end of the harness find the contact for the corresponding color wire you are testing and touch the contact with the red lead.
The wire with an O/L reading is your bad wire. The other wire should read 0.002 or all zeros. If both wires read all zeros the problem is upstream in the system.
Sorry if over explained it, not sure of your experience with a multi meter. Good luck bud.
Next set your meter to read ohms, it has a symbol that looks like a horseshoe. IIRC there's only 2 wires for the a/c clutch, I can't remember off hand the color of each wire. Take your black lead and touch it to a contact in the a/c clutch connector. At the other end of the harness find the contact for the corresponding color wire you are testing and touch the contact with the red lead.
The wire with an O/L reading is your bad wire. The other wire should read 0.002 or all zeros. If both wires read all zeros the problem is upstream in the system.
Sorry if over explained it, not sure of your experience with a multi meter. Good luck bud.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Arizona
You're chasing your tail on this one by not following proper procedure. The first step in troubleshooting this would be to check for proper charge like was already said. Without a proper charge it will never engage, and you'll waste a lot of time trying to track down a problem that doesn't exist. Shorting the pressure switch on the accumulator will verify if the switch is open or not. Keep in mind that bypassing the protection cutout circuits and forcing the compressor to run with a low system charge can damage it.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 391
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To the OP, all your doing are a few simple non invasive checks to eliminate a few components which take very little time. You've eliminated the clutch actuation, so you know that works. The clutch harness has a clip attaching it to the oil dip stick tube routing the harness very close to the cylinder head placing the harness near a lot if heat. This is where I found my bad wires. Once you eliminate that as a factor then move on to the more invasive testing. But for that I would recommend taking it to a professional for testing.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,609
Likes: 324
From: Arizona
To the OP, all your doing are a few simple non invasive checks to eliminate a few components which take very little time. You've eliminated the clutch actuation, so you know that works. The clutch harness has a clip attaching it to the oil dip stick tube routing the harness very close to the cylinder head placing the harness near a lot if heat. This is where I found my bad wires. Once you eliminate that as a factor then move on to the more invasive testing. But for that I would recommend taking it to a professional for testing.