1994 BRONCO 5.8 ENGINE REMOVAL HELP
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 285
Likes: 2
From: Suwanee, GA.
1994 BRONCO 5.8 ENGINE REMOVAL HELP
Found a good running 1996 5.8L with 136k to put in my 94 Bronco. The 1994 5.8L is my truck is knocking pretty bad and has to power.
My question are:
I haven't pulled a motor on a truck in years. What all do I need to look for and disconnect? So far I removed the radiator and hoses, disconnected all the engine wiring, Disconnected the exhaust pipes, removed starter and torque converter bolts. A/C lines. Throttle and cables. Located the motor mounts but haven't unbolted them yet.
I knows there have to be bolts on the rear of the bell housing that hold the engine and trany together, But I haven't found them yet? Also is it easier to pull the engine and tray together, or just remove the engine?
Anymore info would be great!!
My question are:
I haven't pulled a motor on a truck in years. What all do I need to look for and disconnect? So far I removed the radiator and hoses, disconnected all the engine wiring, Disconnected the exhaust pipes, removed starter and torque converter bolts. A/C lines. Throttle and cables. Located the motor mounts but haven't unbolted them yet.
I knows there have to be bolts on the rear of the bell housing that hold the engine and trany together, But I haven't found them yet? Also is it easier to pull the engine and tray together, or just remove the engine?
Anymore info would be great!!
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
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From: Boise, Idaho
Really, it's just anything that's connected to the engine. Ground straps and power steering are two commonly missed ones.
Then, unbolt the engine from the transmission and from the motor mounts.
I personally like to use a heavy duty chain (one rated well beyond the weight of the engine) and put heavy duty bolts through the eyelets in the chain into the block of the engine where there are holes (such as where a manifold bolts in, or an accessory like the PS pump). Some newer engines already have hook holes for lifting it out, which of course work too.
Then, slowly lift the engine until it's off the mounts. Rock it back and forth gently until it disconnects from the engine, and then slowly lift it out. While you lift it out, do it one bit at a time, checking to be sure you didn't miss anything that's still connected. Last thing you want to do is suddenly see the engine start to tip, hear a snap as something breaks, and then a gush of some fluid go everywhere. Been there done that.
I also maintain that an engine removal / install is a zero beer job. A falling engine can hurt/kill someone, if not just cause a lot of damage.
Then, unbolt the engine from the transmission and from the motor mounts.
I personally like to use a heavy duty chain (one rated well beyond the weight of the engine) and put heavy duty bolts through the eyelets in the chain into the block of the engine where there are holes (such as where a manifold bolts in, or an accessory like the PS pump). Some newer engines already have hook holes for lifting it out, which of course work too.
Then, slowly lift the engine until it's off the mounts. Rock it back and forth gently until it disconnects from the engine, and then slowly lift it out. While you lift it out, do it one bit at a time, checking to be sure you didn't miss anything that's still connected. Last thing you want to do is suddenly see the engine start to tip, hear a snap as something breaks, and then a gush of some fluid go everywhere. Been there done that.
I also maintain that an engine removal / install is a zero beer job. A falling engine can hurt/kill someone, if not just cause a lot of damage.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
On the other hand for mechanical items: IIRC the 1996 engines do not have an air pump like the earlier models. So if the OP intends to keep the AIR injection system intact they will have to swap those hardware pieces onto the donor engine.
Same for the EGR system. The 1996 version uses DPFE (flow) vs. EVP (positional) so that hardware will have to be swapped onto the donor engine.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 285
Likes: 2
From: Suwanee, GA.
No.......as long as the OP does NOT make the fatal mistake of trying to swap PCMs or wiring harnesses they are good to go with the original pieces on the truck (NOT the donor).
On the other hand for mechanical items: IIRC the 1996 engines do not have an air pump like the earlier models. So if the OP intends to keep the AIR injection system intact they will have to swap those hardware pieces onto the donor engine.
Same for the EGR system. The 1996 version uses DPFE (flow) vs. EVP (positional) so that hardware will have to be swapped onto the donor engine.
On the other hand for mechanical items: IIRC the 1996 engines do not have an air pump like the earlier models. So if the OP intends to keep the AIR injection system intact they will have to swap those hardware pieces onto the donor engine.
Same for the EGR system. The 1996 version uses DPFE (flow) vs. EVP (positional) so that hardware will have to be swapped onto the donor engine.
So your saying I need to use the original 1994 wiring harness that came with in the Bronco, right? Thanks, I didn't know that. I have both engine sitting on my garage floor right now. not sure I understand what your saying about the Air pump and EGR stuff??
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
Take a look at the EGR system on the 1994 versus the 1996. Passenger side of the engine. The EGR tube runs from the exhaust manifold to the EGR valve. The 1994 engine will have a gray sensor on top of the EGR. The 1996 uses a EGR valve but the EGR tube has sample ports built into it. There will be two silicone hoses going to a sensor mounted near the EGR valve, but not on top. You need to put the EGR system from the 1994 engine onto the 1996.
EGR setup on your 1994 engine (EGR + EVP sensor):
1996 OBD-II EGR + DPFE sensor:
Again, assuming the donor 1996 engine is from a Bronco or F150 it most likely does not have an air pump and associated tubing, wiring, etc. like your 1994 does. If you want to keep the AIR system intact and working you will have to swap that over to your 1996 donor engine.
If the donor came from a 1995 F250/350/van then it will have the same EGR system as your 1994 but the AIR system is probably completely different.So only one hurdle to jump through versus two.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
The best answer is No. That 1996 engine should have a roller cam in it. The camshaft is made from a different material versus the flat tappet cam in the 1994 engine. That means the gear on the bottom of the distributor is made different material. Do not swap distributors. Functionally they are the same, but vastly different drive gear material.
Using the wrong distributor drive gear usually results in catastrophic failure of the gear. Remember that gear is also used to drive the oil pump. No oil pump rotation means no oil pressure. No oil pressure results in no oil. No oil results in spun/damaged bearings, camshaft, pistons/rings/cylinders walls....back to square one of why you replaced the engine in the first place.
Using the wrong distributor drive gear usually results in catastrophic failure of the gear. Remember that gear is also used to drive the oil pump. No oil pump rotation means no oil pressure. No oil pressure results in no oil. No oil results in spun/damaged bearings, camshaft, pistons/rings/cylinders walls....back to square one of why you replaced the engine in the first place.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
Looking at the first pic you posted I would say that is not a 1996 5.8L engine. Looks like a 1995 and earlier F150/Bronco. F250/350 engines stayed OBD-I in 1996 but their AIR system is way different. It injects air into the exhaust manifolds instead of at the rear of the heads.
I also think the connector on the upper right is for the EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor so definitely not a 1996 (from a F150/Bronco) IMHO.
1996 OBD-II engines also have a sensor mounted near the harmonic balancer with a corresponding stator mounted to the balancer that was a mis-fire detector. I highly suspect your donor is missing that since it looks to be a 1995 or earlier engine to me.
If this does turn out to be a 1995 or earlier engine then you need to determine if it has a roller or flat tappet cam.
I also think the connector on the upper right is for the EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor so definitely not a 1996 (from a F150/Bronco) IMHO.
1996 OBD-II engines also have a sensor mounted near the harmonic balancer with a corresponding stator mounted to the balancer that was a mis-fire detector. I highly suspect your donor is missing that since it looks to be a 1995 or earlier engine to me.
If this does turn out to be a 1995 or earlier engine then you need to determine if it has a roller or flat tappet cam.