1994 BRONCO 5.8 ENGINE REMOVAL HELP
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
At least now you do not have to worry about swapping the EGR system.....
You could swap the 1994 exhaust manifolds and AIR piping onto the 1996 donor. Or use your 1994 exhaust manifolds, eliminate the AIR piping altogether, but keep the TAB/TAD solenoids electrically connected. Plug the AIR injection fitting on your exhaust...done. But it won't pass visual emission checks if you do not have those.
I am quite certain 1996 5.8L engines use a roller cam so your 1994 distributor would work if you swap on a compatible drive gear. Or purchase a distributor for a 1996 F250 w/5.8L engine.
Everything else is plug-n-play.
You could swap the 1994 exhaust manifolds and AIR piping onto the 1996 donor. Or use your 1994 exhaust manifolds, eliminate the AIR piping altogether, but keep the TAB/TAD solenoids electrically connected. Plug the AIR injection fitting on your exhaust...done. But it won't pass visual emission checks if you do not have those.
I am quite certain 1996 5.8L engines use a roller cam so your 1994 distributor would work if you swap on a compatible drive gear. Or purchase a distributor for a 1996 F250 w/5.8L engine.
Everything else is plug-n-play.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 285
Likes: 2
From: Suwanee, GA.
Good to here that! I just tried it and the 1994 distributor drops right in the 1996 F250 engine.
So to recap:
I can use the complete 1996 F250 5.8L and wiring harness in my 94?
I will use the smog pump and 94 manifolds and piping since we have emissions here in GA.
So to recap:
I can use the complete 1996 F250 5.8L and wiring harness in my 94?
I will use the smog pump and 94 manifolds and piping since we have emissions here in GA.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
Yes your 1994 distributor will drop right in...but it has the wrong gear on the end of it. 1995/96 was the transition year for roller cams in the 5.8L engine. It's tough to tell exactly what cam you have without doing stupid human tricks like pull the lower intake or pull a push rod to determine what length it is. I looked up some part numbers for a 1994 5.8L engine distributor and a 1996 F250 w/5.8L engine, they are definitely different. That implies you have a roller cam 5.8L engine IMHO. A highly desirable engine at that. To be 100% sure you could pull a valve cover on each engine, driver side is easiest. Remove a rocker arm then pull a push rod. If the lengths are identical then both are flat tappet camshafts. That means your 1994 distributor will work. If the 1996 engine has a shorter pushrod, you have a roller cam.
No...do not use any wiring from the 1996 donor.....none of it...zero.
Plug-n-play in the sense that all the sensors will plug into your existing wiring harness from your 1994.
No...do not use any wiring from the 1996 donor.....none of it...zero.
Plug-n-play in the sense that all the sensors will plug into your existing wiring harness from your 1994.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 285
Likes: 2
From: Suwanee, GA.
How would I just check the old 94 motor first to see if it a roller without pulling the 96 apart to compare it to?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
From: Mt. Home, ID
take the intakes off and the lifters are right there in the valley. Might have to remove a valve cover, loosen a rocker and then pull one out to make sure. can't think of exactly how they look apart at the moment, just looking in the valley.
I ended up having to buy a new distributor because the housing was cracked.
Mike
I ended up having to buy a new distributor because the housing was cracked.
Mike
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
From: Mt. Home, ID
I was just suggesting checking the lifters in your 94 so you might not have to buy a new distributor. If you do get a new one, save the shaft from your old one. They make great pre-oilers for new engines.
Mike
Mike
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 299
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From: Mt. Home, ID
The figure eight pieces on top of your lifters are holding them in alignment. Normal lifters will rotate in the bore. Roller tips can't be allowed to rotate, hence the figure eights. The valley piece holds the figure eights in place. I know I'm not using the right terminology, but it's what my friends and I call them. It is definitely a roller cam. That means your distributor should work just fine.
Mike
Mike
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
From: Mt. Home, ID
Zombie, look at the top of the lifters, right where the pushrods come down to meet them, as a pair. You can see the open end of what looks like a spacer facing outward (again try to look at them as a pair). The arms of the stamped steel piece bolted to the bottom of the valley cover the space in between each pair of lifters. That hides the fact that those 'spacers' are actually one piece, in the shape of a figure 8 with the top and bottom open. I've also heard them called dogbones.
A regular hydraulic lifter is round from top to bottom. The 'roller' lifters have straight edges on the top that the figure 8s rest against to keep them from rotating. The keeps the roller in correct alignment with the lobe of the camshaft.
If I knew how to add arrows to a picture I'd point to it.
Mike
A regular hydraulic lifter is round from top to bottom. The 'roller' lifters have straight edges on the top that the figure 8s rest against to keep them from rotating. The keeps the roller in correct alignment with the lobe of the camshaft.
If I knew how to add arrows to a picture I'd point to it.
Mike