When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've never seen those window plastic things. Must be a prep oversight.
When you had the front levels, did you have to do an alignment or make any change to the steering system? Did you have to have anything done whatsoever other than just level the front?
The bed alignment may have been disturbed when the liner was sprayed in. My LineX shop removed the bed bolts (a large torx bolt) and carefully lined the bed back up after. The rubber "donuts" were not installed by the dealer, they were in a bag under the rear seat. After the liner was sprayed in I installed them. Heating to get them more pliable is the key. Take it back to the dealer and have them adjust the bed and install the rubber things. There should be a plug for the hole too.
They did an alignment as part of the leveling. Just to make sure it was still aligned.
They didn't have to do anything special to the steering and it's still top dead center on the steering wheel. I don't feel any pulling or have any drifting. so far it seems like a pretty simple procedure. I'm going to be watching for tire wear just to make sure.
It took them about 2 hours to complete. They installed the bumpers above the shocks and added a small spacer to the shocks so they didn't bottom out with the longer travel. When the time comes to replace the shocks, I'll remove those spacers and just use a shock designed with a longer travel.
PH - I just bought a $75 rubber bed mat for my 2011 just so I'd quit ripping the plastic covers off when I put something in the back of the bed... Even when you get them in correctly, I still kept knocking them off... Of course now I don't have the 5th wheel prep, so it isn't a problem. I still use the rubber bed mat though.
The bed alignment may have been disturbed when the liner was sprayed in. My LineX shop removed the bed bolts (a large torx bolt) and carefully lined the bed back up after. The rubber "donuts" were not installed by the dealer, they were in a bag under the rear seat. After the liner was sprayed in I installed them. Heating to get them more pliable is the key. Take it back to the dealer and have them adjust the bed and install the rubber things. There should be a plug for the hole too.
Mine came with the Donuts on top of the bed, with the plugs push in, holding the donuts in place.
Mine came with the Donuts on top of the bed, with the plugs push in, holding the donuts in place.
Is this correct ?
The donuts fit in a grove around the side of the steel puck. Put them in a glass of hot water for a few minutes and they'll slide in quite easily. The plugs will then just cover the hole, no need to hold the donuts in place.
When I hitch up I just lower the back seat so I can see the top of my 5er hitch, so no need to remove the headrest and lose it.
Thats a good idea. But I also slide 16' long piece of finish lumber through the back window when I need to haul longer pieces of trim. They are too fragile to let hang 8' off the tailgate. Hooking up the Gooseneck trailer is a weekly thing, The long lumber is once or twice a year kind of problem.
I'll try this a couple of times and see how well that works. I suspect my BAKflip tonneau is going to be more in the way of seeing the GN ball than the head rest.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.