When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Oh look, someone has reinvented "snake oil". Even the description is BS. Screw with one part of the EEC-IV computer system and the rest of it tries to compensate causing more difficulties. I would really like to know how this little thing "simulates" the movement of the EVP sensor given that the sensor only sends information BACK to the computer and does not open and close except when the vacuum supply to the EGR valve causes the valve to move and the EVP to change resistance. The EGR isn't "harming" your engine anyway. Furthermore, if your "Check Engine LIght" is on, FIX THE PROBLEM! Now THAT will "breathe life into your engine!"
The check engine light is on, but that is due to a sensor that isnt even produced anymore. Ive heard of people getting something like this, or very similar, that work. But Ive never talked to someone with first hand experience with using them. So my original question still stands.
Here is another one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-95-Ford-Truck-F-150-F-250-Bronco-EGR-Eliminator-Delete/261815909858?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Df5ede64a62054e4ab9990fd1a5d01981%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D301567283284&rt=nc
Its the neutral safety switch on the tranny. Its an electric shift switch, and Ive read that that is for the T-case, but I have a manual T-case. Anyways, every part store ive talked to has told me that it has been discontinued, after trying to sell me a neutral safety switch for a different transmission. I have a neutral safety switch for a c6 with a regular t-case but its a 4 pin connector instead of a 6 pin for the electric shift, but I'm a little hesitant to tear into that because I dont know all of what it does
Okay so we are talking about one of possibly three automatic transmissions that COULD have been OEM to your 1989.
The C6 which is vacuum regulated (it gets told when to shift by vacuum from the engine essentially) and the NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) is definitely still available. You may only be able to get an aftermarket version but they are out there.
It is possible though that you have an AOD (which is actually a variant of the old C4 auto). The AOD uses a TV (throttle valve) cable linkage to regulate its shift functions. The cable attaches to the throttle linkage as the name suggests and then runs down to a shift lever on the side of the transmission. The NSS for this transmission is also still available.
The third option, and if you have one, you have a very early version and a rare Bronco, is an E4OD. The early E4ODs were extremely unreliable to the point that when Ford finally redesigned ALL of the internals between 1993 and 1994 model years, they PULLED ALL of the existing parts they had on the shelves for them, terminated contracts for all aftermarket parts tooling and forced any remaining aftermarket parts into obsolescence. The E4OD does not have an NSS per se. It has an MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor). This is basically just a multi-position switch that is mounted to the side of the transmission case and as the gear selector (Manual Lever) is moved through the detents (gear selections) the shift linkage not only moves the internal gear selector but also moves the MLPS. The MLPS serves as the NSS AND provides the onboard computer with the necessary information as to what gear has been selected. This allows the computer to adjust engine operational parameters based on which gear has been selected. It also prevents the computer from allowing over revving in non-moving gears. The MLPS plugs in to the main wiring harness via an eight-pin connector. The age of an MLPS will dictate the relative shape of the connector. The older units are relatively square or rectangular while the later units are more oval. No matter which version is in the truck now, the oval-shaped one is the ONLY one available and it is best to get it from Ford since the Ford unit provides the necessary instructions for rewiring the oval-shaped pigtail in place of the old rectangular one. This also necessitates replacing the MLPS obviously.
Since I recall seeing this question go by at an earlier date, I took the opportunity to reply as completely as I can. My concern at this point though is exactly how an "EGR delete" will help with your fault Code problems since a failed MLPS or NSS will generate fault Codes that are in no way similar to those generated by a faulty EVP sensor.
ECMs (EEC-IV computers) that generate two-digit Codes will produce Codes 31-35 for faulty/erratic EVP information and Code 67 for faulty/erratic NSS or MLPS information.
ECMs that generate three-digit Codes (unlikely to be found in a truck that old) will produce Codes 326-337 for faulty/erratic EVP information and Code 634 for faulty/erratic MLPS information. There are a handful of other Codes that the three-digit computers may generate if the diagnostics tests are not performed to the letter but are nothing to be concerned about.
Thank you for that information, I didnt know what the middle sensor was for. My bronco has a C6, and this is the NSS and connector thats on it. I'll have to look into that aftermarket switch you mentioned, but for this specific issue, this is as far as Ive gotten. The ports on the plug were corroded, and I cleaned them, but no luck.
As for the Egr delete, That is just something Ive wanted to try first hand and see what happens. Ive seen alot of both arguments for and against it, and Im going to be changing out the exhaust in a short while anyways, so I figured, why not. I also want to see if that dummy plug works
Personally, I would never attempt to delete the EGR system simply because the computer in your truck was programmed to control engine parameters to maximize performance with the system working. The wording of the ad for the product you see there is rooted in false information. There is no harm done in recirculating exhaust gasses back through the combustion cycle. In truth it is one of the oldest and most widely used methods of reducing the crud that vehicle engines produce. EGR systems have been in use on American cars since the mid 1960's and have had no ill-effects on the operation of said engines. Recirculating exhaust gasses actually increases the amount of combustable particulants coming into the engine. (Because if you think that one time through the combustion cycle actually burns everything you need to go back to school). The increase in combustibles is what the computer is programmed to adjust for. if you "fool" the computer into thinking that the EGR valve is open and its NOT, you just leaned out the fuel-air mixture coming into the engine because the "dummy" sensor is "telling" the computer that the EGR valve is open (but not really letting combustable exhaust gasses into the engine) so the computer "responds" by leaning out the fuel-air ratio so the engine doesn't run too rich! (Because if it kept the ratio the same while the EGR valve was open it would run rich). If the EGR valve isn't truly open when the "dummy" claims that it is, you are running lean which will cause superheating of cylinder walls, premature ring failure and premature spark plug failure. And just for the record, this is not my opinion, this is how the EEC-IV computer works and why "lying" to it will only cause you greater troubles in the long run. The "dummy" might lie and say the EGR valve is open but the computer will still respond as though the EGR valve is truly open.
Every time Ive gone in to check for an NSS the part stores try to sell me one with a 4 pin connector saying it was for a C6. Im sort of new to the world of computerized vehicles, so I really have no idea, but they had the one I needed labeled as something else. Do you have a link to somewhere that I can get that aftermarket NSS?
And thank you for the info on the egr/comp systems. It wasnt the ad that I was looking at, I was just wondering if the product worked. I actually didnt read much of the add. Supposedly, from what Ive been told, those dummy sensors are supposed to keep the computer thinking that the egr valve is closed all the time. But from what you said, that could or will cause problems with the fuel mixture when the valve is supposed to be open normally.
I told you were to get it in your other thread, Rockauto (linked (there not here) ) and/or O'Reilly's (can't link to the specific switch but it's part # is listed below) has them listed.
I don't have much info on the neutral safety switch, but as for the EGR thing goes, I'd definitely keep it.
Greystreak knows what he is talking about, and I have firsthand experience with not running it (accidentally).
I replaced my cylinder heads in my 302 with some AFR cylinders heads that were emissions ready. However, I accidentally put lower intake manifold gaskets that blocked the EGR port.
I drove around for about a week with that (I tested my EGR line and realized it was blocked off).
I think my mileage went slightly down, and there was absolutely no performance gain. I finally got the time to take the lower intake manifolds off and put the proper gasket in place. My mileage went back to normal after that.
