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1976 Ford F-100 rebuilt 302 with a edelbrock 1406 4bbl. when I got the truck I notice a smell of gas when I parked it after a drive. I looked for the charcoal canister and notice it had no caps on it and the only hose going to it that was hooked up is coming from the fuel tank. The other hose I assume that went to the carburetor was left hanging on the frame. I have capped off the vent holes on top of the canister. Could someone tell me where this hose is suppose to connect to? Is there some other way to plumb it in so I don't smell the gas. I want to make it right so my wife will let me park it in my 1/3 of my garage, with out smelling up the place. Thanks in advance.
Another emissions hack job. Is there a vacuum routing sticker anywhere on your engine or core support?
Those evap systems use the charcoal canister to hold vapors, and usually (always?) have a purge valve to send any liquid back to the tank. Overfilling will kill them. So, you have the vent from the tank, but no line for fumes to go to the carb and no line back to the tank. That's my wag.
Any lines or evidence of lines at the tank, along the frame etc?
Maybe one of these diagrams will help. They are older vehicles, but afaik, evap didn't change much, it's pretty basic for carbs. EFI, turbo etc would be different, but that ain't what we is talkin' about:
There should be one 5/16" line that goes to the fuel tank, one 3/4" line that goes to the side of the air filter housing and the port in the center of the canister should have a breather cap on it.
This particular canister does not have a purge valve on it. It lets the trapped fuel vapor flow to the air filter whenever the engine is running.
The activated charcoal is supposed to trap fumes and any extra is directed to the air cleaner via a foil-covered paper tube. The tube is via a fitting on the exterior of the air cleaner housing.
The charcoal canister is considered contaminated if any liquid fuel gets into it. Open it up, clean it out, and replace the activated charcoal with a fresh supply from your local pet store.
how to i make it work with a Edelbrock air cleaner that is not enclosed. I have a hose coming off the passenger side valve cover with a pvc valve in it can i plumb it in there?
If you add in a canister purge valve, like the later model setup, you can tee it into the PCV loop:
Ignore the second canister/bowl vent/etc. - this diagram is for a mid-80s Mustang engine with the 4 bbl Holley. But the interface between the canister purge and the PCV is the same.
Sure ... but you'll have the gas smell from the back end of the truck instead of the front. If your wife wants no smell, you need a functional evap system.
Your engine will run fine without the evaporative emissions system functioning, if you just cap everything off and get a vented gas cap ... but if you want to get it working, it really shouldn't be too hard to plumb up - vacuum-operated canister purge valves aren't too expensive; you just plumb the control side of that from the emissions port (ported vacuum) on the carb through a ~100 F ported vacuum switch so it won't actuate with the engine cold. If you already have EGR, just tee off the line to the EGR valve. Then plumb the other two ports on the purge valve so that it directs flow from the canister to a tee in the PCV line to the bottom of the carb.
The delay valves and restrictors in the factory system probably help in some particular situations, but I don't know that you'd notice they were missing. Worst case, add a spark delay valve where it has "VDV" in the diagram if you need to.
Or find a way to add an extra ~3/4" port to your air cleaner and run a fat non-valves hose there, per factory setup.
