Might drop the hammer,,, input please!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,665
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From: Near Yosemite CA
Might drop the hammer,,, input please!
Ok,,, been looking for a Bronco for a while,,, got 5 in da family, jeeps only sit 4, plus I AM a Ford guy, so it really is a no-brainer!! 
Saw this one down south, thinking of making the drive,,, what are your thoughts/opinions,,,
1991 5.8, 150k, needs heater core, rear window motor, and A/C blows warm. It looks pretty much stock, which I prefer, and I can do the molesting,,, I mean lifting!
1991 Ford Bronco xlt 4x4 5.8 liter clean and strong.
Saw this one down south, thinking of making the drive,,, what are your thoughts/opinions,,,
1991 5.8, 150k, needs heater core, rear window motor, and A/C blows warm. It looks pretty much stock, which I prefer, and I can do the molesting,,, I mean lifting!
1991 Ford Bronco xlt 4x4 5.8 liter clean and strong.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,665
Likes: 986
From: Near Yosemite CA
My exact thought also! No stereo blasting, beating the crap out of it on the dirt road trips.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,665
Likes: 986
From: Near Yosemite CA
TBD!! Logistics wise it's a PITA, 4 hrs down, 4 hrs back,,, I might feel a cold coming on,,, ahem, ahem,,, thursday maybe?!! I am going to give him a call here shortly, see if we can negotiate a price,,,
Beer Fridge Finder
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 14,988
Likes: 1,151
From: Savannah, GA
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,665
Likes: 986
From: Near Yosemite CA
Houston, it looks like we have a GO for launch
I think it might work out for Saturday morning,,,
It is just an extra vehicle from his ailing step-dad, they don't drive much, bought to tow a bass boat, never bought boat before his health started failing. They don't really ever use it.
known issues from owner:
valve covers seep enough to smell on exhaust, no drips or puddles
rear window motor inop
A/C blows not cold
heater core bypassed
rear ABS light on
left turn-signal does not cancel
New tires, radiator and coolant hoses and Rebuilt Transmission.
I think it might work out for Saturday morning,,,
It is just an extra vehicle from his ailing step-dad, they don't drive much, bought to tow a bass boat, never bought boat before his health started failing. They don't really ever use it.
known issues from owner:
valve covers seep enough to smell on exhaust, no drips or puddles
rear window motor inop
A/C blows not cold
heater core bypassed
rear ABS light on
left turn-signal does not cancel
New tires, radiator and coolant hoses and Rebuilt Transmission.
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Beer Fridge Finder
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 14,988
Likes: 1,151
From: Savannah, GA
Valve covers - easy.
Rear window - could be the switch, but probably wiring in the tailgate. Usually just cleaning up the connections, making sure there is a good ground. Have them test the rear window with the key switch - it might just work!
A/C = $30 at NAPA for a recharge bottle every season.
Heater Core - bitch to replace, but not expensive part.
Rear ABS - Remove ABS light bulb and continue on with your day.
Turn Signal - You might be able to remove, clean, and reinstall the switch, otherwise it's off to Napa for a new one. Not too big of a deal.
All in all I'd tell them you have to spend about $1500 to make it right... bargaining power only of course. You'll probably have less than $300 in parts.
Rear window - could be the switch, but probably wiring in the tailgate. Usually just cleaning up the connections, making sure there is a good ground. Have them test the rear window with the key switch - it might just work!
A/C = $30 at NAPA for a recharge bottle every season.
Heater Core - bitch to replace, but not expensive part.
Rear ABS - Remove ABS light bulb and continue on with your day.
Turn Signal - You might be able to remove, clean, and reinstall the switch, otherwise it's off to Napa for a new one. Not too big of a deal.
All in all I'd tell them you have to spend about $1500 to make it right... bargaining power only of course. You'll probably have less than $300 in parts.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,665
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From: Near Yosemite CA
Well,,, he's only asking $3k obo,,, and from all the ones I have been looking at, FOR A WHILE,,, for same price or more, with usually 230k+ miles, been lifted, interior trashed, 15x12" wheels, painted flat freakin black, 3" body lift with 6" suspension lift with 38's,,, only driven by grandma,,, salvage title, no title, not sure about smog, has "slight" body damage,,, I'm really liking this one
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,665
Likes: 986
From: Near Yosemite CA
Just about what I was thinking $$ wise,,, except for the ABS!
Valve covers - easy.
Rear window - could be the switch, but probably wiring in the tailgate. Usually just cleaning up the connections, making sure there is a good ground. Have them test the rear window with the key switch - it might just work!
A/C = $30 at NAPA for a recharge bottle every season.
Heater Core - bitch to replace, but not expensive part.
Rear ABS - Remove ABS light bulb and continue on with your day. Now That's Funny!!
Turn Signal - You might be able to remove, clean, and reinstall the switch, otherwise it's off to Napa for a new one. Not too big of a deal.
All in all I'd tell them you have to spend about $1500 to make it right... bargaining power only of course. You'll probably have less than $300 in parts.
Rear window - could be the switch, but probably wiring in the tailgate. Usually just cleaning up the connections, making sure there is a good ground. Have them test the rear window with the key switch - it might just work!
A/C = $30 at NAPA for a recharge bottle every season.
Heater Core - bitch to replace, but not expensive part.
Rear ABS - Remove ABS light bulb and continue on with your day. Now That's Funny!!
Turn Signal - You might be able to remove, clean, and reinstall the switch, otherwise it's off to Napa for a new one. Not too big of a deal.
All in all I'd tell them you have to spend about $1500 to make it right... bargaining power only of course. You'll probably have less than $300 in parts.
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Boise, Idaho
Looks like a really nice deal, and those issues are pretty simple to deal with.
The rear motor also might be stripped internals. Meaning, the motor is spinning, but nothing is happening. If this is the case, it's about 25 cents to fix, and stronger than original. Remove the window motor, open it up (there are three philips screws on the front), and clean out the busted up plastic. Replace with three nuts that fit in their place. Reverse/reinstall.
Are A/C heater cores more difficult? The Bronco is, hands down, THE easiest and simplest heater core replacement I've ever done. Open up and remove the glove box. Remove the passenger side kick panel. Unbolt the 5 (maybe 6) nuts from the back side of the studs that hold the heater box on. Go into the engine bay and remove the heater box. Open it up and swap the core. Reverse/Reinstall. Took me about 30 - 45 minutes. (As opposed to seven hours in a professional Chrysler dealership mechanic's bay to do my Chrysler LeBaron heater core).
On other vehicles I've had with ABS, the light on can mean several things. Fluid is low. Proportioning valve is misaligned. Etc. I would figure out why it's on before just disregarding it.
Either way, hope it works out for you. Looks like a good deal for a good truck!
On a side note, I agree the 80 - 86 is my favorite body style, but a simple grill guard looks really good on those flat fronted ones.
The rear motor also might be stripped internals. Meaning, the motor is spinning, but nothing is happening. If this is the case, it's about 25 cents to fix, and stronger than original. Remove the window motor, open it up (there are three philips screws on the front), and clean out the busted up plastic. Replace with three nuts that fit in their place. Reverse/reinstall.
Are A/C heater cores more difficult? The Bronco is, hands down, THE easiest and simplest heater core replacement I've ever done. Open up and remove the glove box. Remove the passenger side kick panel. Unbolt the 5 (maybe 6) nuts from the back side of the studs that hold the heater box on. Go into the engine bay and remove the heater box. Open it up and swap the core. Reverse/Reinstall. Took me about 30 - 45 minutes. (As opposed to seven hours in a professional Chrysler dealership mechanic's bay to do my Chrysler LeBaron heater core).
On other vehicles I've had with ABS, the light on can mean several things. Fluid is low. Proportioning valve is misaligned. Etc. I would figure out why it's on before just disregarding it.
Either way, hope it works out for you. Looks like a good deal for a good truck!
On a side note, I agree the 80 - 86 is my favorite body style, but a simple grill guard looks really good on those flat fronted ones.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,665
Likes: 986
From: Near Yosemite CA
Thanks for the info, and yes I read last night about heater core,,, OMG Becky!! THAT easy?!?! I just did my 77 F250 4x4 WITH A/C,,, total PITA! My back hurt for days! (and not just age related!)
And yes, I like lights to work when they are supposed to and NOT when they shouldn't!
And after looking for a while, I do think it is a good deal!
And I am fond of the 80-86, had an 86, WITH a 4 speed in Fresno I was going to buy, called guy like 4 times, talked about it, had a busy week with software upgrades and just couldn't make it down for 2 days,, called him each day, and told him I was coming down Thursday, called Thursday morning when I got done, just to make sure he was going to be there,,, aw ,,, I sold it he says! Aaarrggghhh!!
But the Flat-noses grow on ya!
And yes, I like lights to work when they are supposed to and NOT when they shouldn't!
And after looking for a while, I do think it is a good deal!
And I am fond of the 80-86, had an 86, WITH a 4 speed in Fresno I was going to buy, called guy like 4 times, talked about it, had a busy week with software upgrades and just couldn't make it down for 2 days,, called him each day, and told him I was coming down Thursday, called Thursday morning when I got done, just to make sure he was going to be there,,, aw ,,, I sold it he says! Aaarrggghhh!!
But the Flat-noses grow on ya!
Looks like a really nice deal, and those issues are pretty simple to deal with.
The rear motor also might be stripped internals. Meaning, the motor is spinning, but nothing is happening. If this is the case, it's about 25 cents to fix, and stronger than original. Remove the window motor, open it up (there are three philips screws on the front), and clean out the busted up plastic. Replace with three nuts that fit in their place. Reverse/reinstall.
Are A/C heater cores more difficult? The Bronco is, hands down, THE easiest and simplest heater core replacement I've ever done. Open up and remove the glove box. Remove the passenger side kick panel. Unbolt the 5 (maybe 6) nuts from the back side of the studs that hold the heater box on. Go into the engine bay and remove the heater box. Open it up and swap the core. Reverse/Reinstall. Took me about 30 - 45 minutes. (As opposed to seven hours in a professional Chrysler dealership mechanic's bay to do my Chrysler LeBaron heater core).
On other vehicles I've had with ABS, the light on can mean several things. Fluid is low. Proportioning valve is misaligned. Etc. I would figure out why it's on before just disregarding it.
Either way, hope it works out for you. Looks like a good deal for a good truck!
On a side note, I agree the 80 - 86 is my favorite body style, but a simple grill guard looks really good on those flat fronted ones.
The rear motor also might be stripped internals. Meaning, the motor is spinning, but nothing is happening. If this is the case, it's about 25 cents to fix, and stronger than original. Remove the window motor, open it up (there are three philips screws on the front), and clean out the busted up plastic. Replace with three nuts that fit in their place. Reverse/reinstall.
Are A/C heater cores more difficult? The Bronco is, hands down, THE easiest and simplest heater core replacement I've ever done. Open up and remove the glove box. Remove the passenger side kick panel. Unbolt the 5 (maybe 6) nuts from the back side of the studs that hold the heater box on. Go into the engine bay and remove the heater box. Open it up and swap the core. Reverse/Reinstall. Took me about 30 - 45 minutes. (As opposed to seven hours in a professional Chrysler dealership mechanic's bay to do my Chrysler LeBaron heater core).
On other vehicles I've had with ABS, the light on can mean several things. Fluid is low. Proportioning valve is misaligned. Etc. I would figure out why it's on before just disregarding it.
Either way, hope it works out for you. Looks like a good deal for a good truck!
On a side note, I agree the 80 - 86 is my favorite body style, but a simple grill guard looks really good on those flat fronted ones.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,665
Likes: 986
From: Near Yosemite CA
Hahaha,,, whateva do you mean?!?!
maybe a slow drive down the 5,,, in the middle of the morning rush hour,,,
I remember driving to work that morning, thinking WTH is all these peoples problem, usually I'M the slow one!!
maybe a slow drive down the 5,,, in the middle of the morning rush hour,,,
I remember driving to work that morning, thinking WTH is all these peoples problem, usually I'M the slow one!!