Have a Major Issue
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
i've only got weekends to work on it. being on an island and all. but yes i have fuel from the IP. replacing return lines caps and rings. then if that doesn't do it. check to see if the IP pops the injectors. then if it does great on to compression testing lol. getting a layout of steps i need to do while i can't work on the truck for the weekends when i can work on it. the joys of working on an island haha. makes you good at planning i guess. if the boat were running i'd have the truck here to work on at night.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,267
Likes: 5
Any time we've run a diesel out of fuel, we cracked a few injector lines, cranked it over a bit, let the fuel leak out, tightened them up, and fired up real rough but went back to normal.
I'm not sure if thats good advice, but thats what we've done on older stuff.
What island? lol
I'm not sure if thats good advice, but thats what we've done on older stuff.
What island? lol
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
well if all else fails got the motor to drop in it haha. only 80k miles on the 6.9, versus the 276k on the 7.3, then I can eventually rebuild it. but that's only if I can't get it running. or the compression tests come back bad. i rather hope i can get it running. got firewood to haul haha. I'm out on Beaver island in Michigan.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
Likes: 7
I'm seriously thinking timing at this point.
If the timing is off more than a few degrees, it /will not/ start, but might run(barely). I'd try Ether -- something that might actually get it running.
You want to make sure the engine is cold, and the GPs are also cold, but give it a shot or two of ether when cranking and see if you can get it to work.
Remember, all 8 IP lines must be tight for it to start -- remember to tighten them back down. Give it about a 1-2s shot of ether just before cranking, into the intake. As long as your engine is cold, you shouldn't get any ether-lock/dangerous pre-ignition.
If you can get it to run on it's own, you'll find it either missing and smokey or clattery as all get out. Smokey/missing == retarded, clattery == advanced. The ether method will get it started if it's two IP gear teeth off from where it should be(like 12deg), which is a /huge/ amount.
If the timing is off more than a few degrees, it /will not/ start, but might run(barely). I'd try Ether -- something that might actually get it running.
You want to make sure the engine is cold, and the GPs are also cold, but give it a shot or two of ether when cranking and see if you can get it to work.
Remember, all 8 IP lines must be tight for it to start -- remember to tighten them back down. Give it about a 1-2s shot of ether just before cranking, into the intake. As long as your engine is cold, you shouldn't get any ether-lock/dangerous pre-ignition.
If you can get it to run on it's own, you'll find it either missing and smokey or clattery as all get out. Smokey/missing == retarded, clattery == advanced. The ether method will get it started if it's two IP gear teeth off from where it should be(like 12deg), which is a /huge/ amount.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
combination of a few things. but in the end it stopped getting fuel from either tank after a while. tank selector valve must've been stuck halfway open or closed. the lift pump was pulling fuel. but apparently not enough. 2 new batteries. New tank valve. lift pump. filter, return lines, and caps, no new noises, even less smoke at start.
Thanks for all the help guys i really appreciate it.
Thanks for all the help guys i really appreciate it.
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