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awesome. thanks. save me a few dollars. my uncle says it's the mechanical lift pump. so hard working on a truck when you're on an island and the truck is on the mainland haha. luckily the spare motor is on the island so i can pull parts in my spare time.
The lift pump is easy to check. Pull the flexible supply line coming from below the pump. Put it in a gas can of fuel to bypass the fuel tank and lines. Crank the engine and depress the Schrader valve on the fuel heater, (aka the filter head). You should get a pulsing stream of fuel. You can also check the pressure there if you wish. I believe 7lbs is normal. One other thing to consider, but not likely in this scenario, is the fss. There is a fuel shut off solenoid on the top of the pump which is supplied with 12 volts when the key is in the on position. I would highly recommend verifying this before pulling the pump.
be heading home thursday night, hopefully i can get it running over the weekend. got my spare parts. Lift pump, injector pump etc lol keeping fingers crossed and i'll keep you all posted thanks for the help.
Are the batteries still fully charged? It might not be turning over fast enough, especially if you've been fooling around with it for a while without topping them up on a charger.
If your lines are full of air, it take a lot of time and battery life to cold start. Try cracking as many injector lines as you can get to easily, and turn it over to purge air. Then crank them tight and see if it starts.
had it turning over really fast, almost started on wd40, but just wouldn't do it, cracked 4 of them all had fuel. got a big charger +engine starter on it. fuel shut off has juice and clicks when i pull the wire. oil is still good. not sure what else to check. got me dumbfounded now.
get barely any smoke when it almost starts and the intake side of the turbo starts to turn. it acts like it wants to go, but just wont. could the injection timing be off now?
get barely any smoke when it almost starts and the intake side of the turbo starts to turn. it acts like it wants to go, but just wont. could the injection timing be off now?
I saw you say you have a spare IP but you didn't say if you installed it. If you didn't swap it and haven't changed the timing then no, timing should be fine.
I found carb/throttle body cleaner to be great for these engines, not sure how wd40 works but you can run the engine on carb cleaner without detonation or other fuel. Helps a lot when I have some.
Does your glow plug system work well, and what are the ambient temps? It's probably still air-related.
Was the fuel filter full after you changed lift pumps?
filter was a little low, but i primed it before i started bleeding the injectors. didn't swap out the IP because it was working and the FSS was getting juice and clicking on and off i did use a bit of carb cleaner, but I don't like using it. thinking maybe fixing up the return lines and o-rings on the return caps should help. going to check the filter again. see if it bled back over night.
what kind of PSI should i be seeing out of the injector pump when spinning it over?
Stock IP's can pop 2100psi injectors no problem so at least that much...
If you mean fuel pressure from the lift pump, about 7psi is stock but I have never actually had a pump that delivers 7psi, more like 4psi. But I hear the IP only needs 0.5lbs to run just fine and in some cases can even run itself when lift pumps die. Though once the engine is off it usually won't start again till the pump is replaced.