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I ran my choke wire from the original alternator system, now it looks like I need to run a new one to the 3G alternator now because the wire I used no longer has power anymore.
I also went with the new Alt. So have to think again about the choke wire, currently its stealing voltage from the ignition because I just plugged into the factory pigtail that was on the coil hot wire(I know better now, but what was this plug for if not to continue voltage to something else??)
And with the 12V vs. 7v issue. I actually had problems with my holley BC the choke was opening too soon, so I used the wire from the Alt and it corrected that and the truck warmed up fine afterwards. That was a holley 4160 600cfm on my 351m
I also went with the new Alt. So have to think again about the choke wire, currently its stealing voltage from the ignition because I just plugged into the factory pigtail that was on the coil hot wire(I know better now, but what was this plug for if not to continue voltage to something else??)
And with the 12V vs. 7v issue. I actually had problems with my holley BC the choke was opening too soon, so I used the wire from the Alt and it corrected that and the truck warmed up fine afterwards. That was a holley 4160 600cfm on my 351m
The white wire that loops from the three wire to the single connector is the stator wire and it'll power up the choke like factory. Before I went TBI I had a 2150 two barrel and then a holley four barrel hooked up to mine
The source 77&79F250 points out, "I think" goes to the original carburetor solenoid? If you have an aftermarket carb you aren't going to use it anymore anyway.
Don't use the alternator stator terminal as that is hot all the time. You want a keyed source.
The source 77&79F250 points out, "I think" goes to the original carburetor solenoid? If you have an aftermarket carb you aren't going to use it anymore anyway.
Don't use the alternator stator terminal as that is hot all the time. You want a keyed source.
The plug that Rich referenced is a two wire plug. One blue and one white w/ black trace. The blue wire goes to the anti-diesel solenoid on the carb, the white w/ black trace is the factory connection to the choke. This wire goes from the choke coil to the stator terminal on the alternator. It's not hot at all times, it's only hot when the alternator is spinning. If you put a voltmeter on it without the engine running you'll see no output, regardless of whether the key is on or off.
I used the stator terminal for my aftermarket carb, but the started having issues with the choke not opening all the way. I switched it to a 12v source and it works ok now. Although in cold weather it almost opens too fast... Go figure.
Look here in the eng compartment for that ignition on source.
Thank you mikeo0o0o0
With an aftermarket carb needing 12 volts dc you can use the same connector on the firewall. Just unplug the original choke wire and the other unused terminal (blue wire I think) is key on 12 volts. I am not sure which trucks don't have that blue wire in the choke connector plug but the 79 wiring diagram shows it was used for emissions related stuff.
I'm looking to change from a thermo choke to electric and this convenient green wire is located close to the heater core. It fits the tab style electrical connector that's used by my electric choke. From reading the service manual, I see that the alternator should be used, but I'm wondering if I could use the green wire. Thanks!
Green wire is prolly the hood lamp, sounds like you only need to use the ALT terminal if your using the factory carb assisted choke setup. Its also very tempting to use power going to the coil and that's a no no also. I found a ignition 12v hanging under my dash and ran it to my carb, tested good for 12v and works good.
