Electric choke has no hookup?
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Elder User
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From: Massachusetts, USA
Electric choke has no hookup?
Hello,
I am having a small dillema, I have a 1975 F250 with a 390 and a 2bbl. The electric choke is on the carb but there are no apparent hookups? I was planning on changing to a manual choke but we all know the trouble those can be if the cable has to much slack.
My question is this Where does the feed come from for the electric choke? Is it off a sensor? Also even if I could reconnect should I even bother?
Thanks
Matt
I am having a small dillema, I have a 1975 F250 with a 390 and a 2bbl. The electric choke is on the carb but there are no apparent hookups? I was planning on changing to a manual choke but we all know the trouble those can be if the cable has to much slack.
My question is this Where does the feed come from for the electric choke? Is it off a sensor? Also even if I could reconnect should I even bother?
Thanks
Matt
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Eastern Virginia
Some of these trucks had electric chokes, others had manifold heated chokes, some had a combination. I'm putting an electric choke on my '75. The Hanes manual wiring diagram shows the electric choke feed coming off of the alternator. It is a white/black wire. The reason it comes off of the alternator is so that the choke only gets current when the engine is running. If you tap into a wire that is hot when the truck is in ACC or RUN then the choke will get current even though the motor is not running...such as when you're playing the radio, etc with the engine off. This can burn up the heating element in the choke since the choke actually uses a slight draft of air when the engine is running to keep the element from overheating. A fuse should also be installed.
Elder User
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From: East Bend, Carolina, U.S
The proper operation of a factory installed Ford electric choke is:
1. An electric choke gets power to it only after the engine is running.
2. The voltage is supplied by the stator connection on the alternator and is identified by the black insulator around it.
3. All factory electric chokes use require only 6-7 volts, so never use 12 volts on them.
Aftermarket and other automobile manufacturers may use 12 volts for their electric chokes, so don't get confused.
1. An electric choke gets power to it only after the engine is running.
2. The voltage is supplied by the stator connection on the alternator and is identified by the black insulator around it.
3. All factory electric chokes use require only 6-7 volts, so never use 12 volts on them.
Aftermarket and other automobile manufacturers may use 12 volts for their electric chokes, so don't get confused.
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Elder User
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From: Massachusetts, USA
Excellent!!
I will look for the wire from the alt.
If I can't find one I will run a single 14ga? wire with a fusible link in it. My choke is a total electric not manifold heated.
Thanks, I will update once I complete it, I should get to it by this tuesday!!
I will look for the wire from the alt.
If I can't find one I will run a single 14ga? wire with a fusible link in it. My choke is a total electric not manifold heated.
Thanks, I will update once I complete it, I should get to it by this tuesday!!
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Eastern Virginia
Not meaning to hijack this thread....but Purely Ford...I am getting ready to hook up an electric choke myself on my '75 F150. The carb is a Holley (Motorcraft) 4160. It had a manifold heated choke, but I added an electric Holley choke kit since the heat tubes have long ago rotted and fell off. I need to refer to the instructions to find the correct voltage, but is the stator feed only 6-7 volts? I was planning on running the wire from the stator like the original. I think the Holley kit uses 12 volts. So it looks like I may have to find another feed. Is there a 12 volt feed that is only energized when the engine is running?
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Exactly, your truck should only be in the "run" position when its running. To check radio, etc, you have the acc. postion. I'll find my book on 73-79 and see how ford did it at factory. Probally off the stator.
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From: Virginia
If you happen to have a anti-dieseling solenoid on your carb linkage, you could use the 12 volts that energizes the solenoid to feed the choke. Otherwise you will have to run through the firewall like everyone else is talking about.
I have never heard of the choke burning out theory because the engine is not running but the choke has power, but I do know one thing that will happen. If you are playing the radio and the choke is on in cold weather, the truck will be very hard to start, since the choke element has already opened the choke, but the engine is cold.
I have never heard of the choke burning out theory because the engine is not running but the choke has power, but I do know one thing that will happen. If you are playing the radio and the choke is on in cold weather, the truck will be very hard to start, since the choke element has already opened the choke, but the engine is cold.
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From: East Bend, Carolina, U.S
The idea behind the choke should only get power when the engine is running isn't because the choke could be burned up. The reason behind this is exactly what was stated about the choke may open up before the engine gets running good and dies several times and is still cold. The choke may as well not be on there at that point.
A factory Ford electric choke will be burned up by 12 volts though whether on only when the engine is running or not.
There is a way to get 12 volts to an aftermarket electric choke only after the engine is running. Some may however not like this setup, but it works. You can use a relay like the type used to power aftermarket fog lights, but to power the electric choke instead. Just use the stator voltage to activate it.
The anti-dieseling solenoid gets power when the ignition key is turned on, so it is not a source for 12 volts only when the engine is running.
A factory Ford electric choke will be burned up by 12 volts though whether on only when the engine is running or not.
There is a way to get 12 volts to an aftermarket electric choke only after the engine is running. Some may however not like this setup, but it works. You can use a relay like the type used to power aftermarket fog lights, but to power the electric choke instead. Just use the stator voltage to activate it.
The anti-dieseling solenoid gets power when the ignition key is turned on, so it is not a source for 12 volts only when the engine is running.
Last edited by Purely Ford; Jun 28, 2004 at 12:10 AM.
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The anti-dieseling solenoid gets power when the ignition key is turned on, so it is not a source for 12 volts only when the engine is running.
Elder User
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From: East Bend, Carolina, U.S
Redone,
It's a go on the stator for the 85 choke connection. If yours has been disconnected, then finding the original wire is going to slow you down a bit especially if your alternator has a side terminal connection. Don't sweat it if the stator wire only puts out 6-7 volts because unless your vehicles electrical system is top notch thats about all you'll see. Dennis is correct on 7-8 volts though for an ideal system.
It's a go on the stator for the 85 choke connection. If yours has been disconnected, then finding the original wire is going to slow you down a bit especially if your alternator has a side terminal connection. Don't sweat it if the stator wire only puts out 6-7 volts because unless your vehicles electrical system is top notch thats about all you'll see. Dennis is correct on 7-8 volts though for an ideal system.
