Power for electric choke?
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Pittsburgh
Power for electric choke?
My truck originally had the exhaust gas choke. Well, now I'm going to an electric choke and have a quick question.
From the factory, what wire is supposed to power the electric choke? Did non-electric choke trucks get the wire, and if not what's a clean place to power it from?
I know I can run a wire all the way back up under the dash for keyed power, but if there's a cleaner way I'm all ears.
Justin
From the factory, what wire is supposed to power the electric choke? Did non-electric choke trucks get the wire, and if not what's a clean place to power it from?
I know I can run a wire all the way back up under the dash for keyed power, but if there's a cleaner way I'm all ears.
Justin
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
If it is the Ford carb, the choke operates at 7-8 volts. The wire comes from the "S" terminal on the back of the alternator.
Most aftermarket carbs w/ elec choke use 12v.
Most aftermarket carbs w/ elec choke use 12v.
Last edited by Bdox; Mar 11, 2007 at 11:00 PM.
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Postmaster
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From: Pittsburgh
It's not an aftermarket, it is a Ford choke setup.
I had even thought of feeding it off of the back of the alternator and that would definitely be a clean setup. Thanks!
And BTW, i know the gasses themselves don't go to the choke, but i most often hear it called the exhaust gas or exhaust heat choke. Figured i'd put it out like that so everyone would know what i was talking about.
Justin
I had even thought of feeding it off of the back of the alternator and that would definitely be a clean setup. Thanks!
And BTW, i know the gasses themselves don't go to the choke, but i most often hear it called the exhaust gas or exhaust heat choke. Figured i'd put it out like that so everyone would know what i was talking about.
Justin
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From: Northern Colorado
Since nobody mentioned it, the reason you want power to the choke only when the engine is running, is if you leave the key on "run or acc"(depending on how you wire) w/ the engine NOT running, the choke will heat up and then when you do try to start the engine, the choke will will be open and you'll have hard non-choke assist starts.
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I just presumed he would figure that out on his own....that's why I didn't mention it.
I was going to though... But backed away from doing so
btw, the main reason is battery drain from an un-keyed 12 volt source
and
if the power is 12 volts or keyed source..the bi-metal coil of the choke will burn out and be rendered useless
and
The ford choke coil only requires 7-9 volts which is supplied by the stator terminal
I was going to though... But backed away from doing so
btw, the main reason is battery drain from an un-keyed 12 volt source
and
if the power is 12 volts or keyed source..the bi-metal coil of the choke will burn out and be rendered useless
and
The ford choke coil only requires 7-9 volts which is supplied by the stator terminal
Last edited by Mil1ion; Mar 12, 2007 at 01:48 PM.
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From: Milltown, NJ
HI Guys, don't mean to
but while we're talking choke here...I have the electrical choke also. IF a choke unit was to "go bad" would it just cease to function or could (or would) the spring become weak? If I press on the choke plate it WILL spring back.
The truck has the Carter 1bbl and the engine just doesn't seem to run smoothly until it REALLY gets hot.
I know the choke IS getting electricity to it and I've adjusted it all kinds of ways to try to get the best operation. But I am not satisfied with the results.
Opinions please.
Thanks,
Ken
but while we're talking choke here...I have the electrical choke also. IF a choke unit was to "go bad" would it just cease to function or could (or would) the spring become weak? If I press on the choke plate it WILL spring back.The truck has the Carter 1bbl and the engine just doesn't seem to run smoothly until it REALLY gets hot.
I know the choke IS getting electricity to it and I've adjusted it all kinds of ways to try to get the best operation. But I am not satisfied with the results.
Opinions please.
Thanks,
Ken
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From: Virginia
HI Guys, don't mean to but while we're talking choke here...I have the electrical choke also. IF a choke unit was to "go bad" would it just cease to function or could (or would) the spring become weak? If I press on the choke plate it WILL spring back
The truck has the Carter 1bbl and the engine just doesn't seem to run smoothly until it REALLY gets hot.
I know the choke IS getting electricity to it and I've adjusted it all kinds of ways to try to get the best operation. But I am not satisfied with the results..
The truck has the Carter 1bbl and the engine just doesn't seem to run smoothly until it REALLY gets hot.
I know the choke IS getting electricity to it and I've adjusted it all kinds of ways to try to get the best operation. But I am not satisfied with the results..
Now if after you adjust it richer, you have a fast idle all the time and the choke plate does not want to open up, then I would say the electrical part of the choke is bad.
Since nobody mentioned it, the reason you want power to the choke only when the engine is running, is if you leave the key on "run or acc"(depending on how you wire) w/ the engine NOT running, the choke will heat up and then when you do try to start the engine, the choke will will be open and you'll have hard non-choke assist starts.
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From: Milltown, NJ
bdox. Yes the heat tube IS in place I thought of that also.
franklin. No. One full depression and release of the accellerator then turn the key and "BAM" it fires right up on steady, high idle.
THEN if I hit the gas ANYTIME after startup the fast idle will drop right down to idle speed and THAT's when the rough idle starts and it will possibly stall. If I start driving immediately, it will run fine, until I stop (traffic or red light, etc.) Then when it gets hot (FIVE minutes) all is well.
I am aware of the "general" way to adjust the choke mechanism and, as previously stated have "toyed" with the settings.
Do choke springs get "tired"?
franklin. No. One full depression and release of the accellerator then turn the key and "BAM" it fires right up on steady, high idle.
THEN if I hit the gas ANYTIME after startup the fast idle will drop right down to idle speed and THAT's when the rough idle starts and it will possibly stall. If I start driving immediately, it will run fine, until I stop (traffic or red light, etc.) Then when it gets hot (FIVE minutes) all is well.
I am aware of the "general" way to adjust the choke mechanism and, as previously stated have "toyed" with the settings.
Do choke springs get "tired"?
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From: Virginia
Do you find it does it worse on damp rainy days vs dry warm days? You may have carb icing, and the air cleaner heat tube to the manifold may not be working.
Sounds like the choke spring is working fine. The factory set up the choke to retract as soon as possible for emissions reasons. So that's the reason all the other heat stuff is on there.
Sounds like the choke spring is working fine. The factory set up the choke to retract as soon as possible for emissions reasons. So that's the reason all the other heat stuff is on there.
Last edited by Franklin2; Mar 12, 2007 at 11:01 PM.
Fleet Owner
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From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Check the position of the choke butterfly when it goes off fast idle. If the choke is still closed, even half way, the fast idle cam should still be engaged on one of the steps of the little cam. You may have to adjust the linkage to make that happen.
If the choke plate is opening too early, adjust it a little richer.
If the choke plate is opening too early, adjust it a little richer.
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Exmore, VA
Originally Posted by ken's 80
bdox. Yes the heat tube IS in place I thought of that also.
franklin. No. One full depression and release of the accellerator then turn the key and "BAM" it fires right up on steady, high idle.
THEN if I hit the gas ANYTIME after startup the fast idle will drop right down to idle speed and THAT's when the rough idle starts and it will possibly stall. If I start driving immediately, it will run fine, until I stop (traffic or red light, etc.) Then when it gets hot (FIVE minutes) all is well.
I am aware of the "general" way to adjust the choke mechanism and, as previously stated have "toyed" with the settings.
Do choke springs get "tired"?
franklin. No. One full depression and release of the accellerator then turn the key and "BAM" it fires right up on steady, high idle.
THEN if I hit the gas ANYTIME after startup the fast idle will drop right down to idle speed and THAT's when the rough idle starts and it will possibly stall. If I start driving immediately, it will run fine, until I stop (traffic or red light, etc.) Then when it gets hot (FIVE minutes) all is well.
I am aware of the "general" way to adjust the choke mechanism and, as previously stated have "toyed" with the settings.
Do choke springs get "tired"?