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Massive amounts of white smoke (fuel) when engine is getting up to operating temp. It clears up for the most part when its fully warmed up. It sounds like its hitting on all 8. Runs great for the most part. Do I need to go to a dealer to pull codes. Ive gone to autozone for there coderead and addressed a egr valve issue. It is cleaned and unplugged for now.
More a contribution test that just going for codes.
If you know someone that had access to an IDS and VCM I or II
that will give you the info on what hole is lagging, Also check
the oil level in the crankcase to rule out any fuel leaking.
Sort of sounds like stiction. Leave the truck over night so it's
cold when they start it and have the gear hooked up and watching
how it is acting on the screen.
More a contribution test that just going for codes.
If you know someone that had access to an IDS and VCM I or II
that will give you the info on what hole is lagging, Also check
the oil level in the crankcase to rule out any fuel leaking.
Sort of sounds like stiction. Leave the truck over night so it's
cold when they start it and have the gear hooked up and watching
how it is acting on the screen.
Sean
Sean I don't really know anyone in the wrenching business anymore and I would almost prefer to cut off a leg than take it to this local dealer. Will most modern auto service facilitys be able to tell me which ones are hitting or where the excess fuel is coming from?
My '05 does the same thing during and right after long cranking cold starts. It clears after start-up. It is my opinion that this is due to the engine being cold and not detonating the fuel. The white smoke that smells like fuel is partialy heated but undetonated atomized fuel.
I pulled codes and retrieved 0671 thru 0678. Those codes are the glow plugs 1 thru 8. I do not have the smoke when it is warm (above 60f) or if I use starting fluid prior to cranking.
Do you use the block/coolant heater? I don't have the cord installed in mine and it looks like my GPCM is not functioning. That's why the fuel will not detonate; the heat created by the friction caused by the compression stroke is absored by the cold engine.
Check your glow plug control module and/or warm the engine.
Sean I don't really know anyone in the wrenching business anymore and I would almost prefer to cut off a leg than take it to this local dealer. Will most modern auto service facilitys be able to tell me which ones are hitting or where the excess fuel is coming from?
Do some reading on stiction.
Also what type and weight of oil are you using?
HEUI systems are very picky about oil.
Do some reading on stiction.
Also what type and weight of oil are you using?
HEUI systems are very picky about oil.
Sean
I will do some more reading. For quite sometime all Ive used is synthetic Rotella 5/40 T-5. I have ran it as long as 10000 though. I did a change the other day at 8000 miles. The amount of smoke is obscene.
T5 is a blend like what Ford has. T6 is a fully synthetic oil.
Also you want to go with a 5K oil change. 10 K is just too dirty
and with the dyno in the blend it can break down faster than the
fully synthetic oil.
T5 is a blend like what Ford has. T6 is a fully synthetic oil.
Also you want to go with a 5K oil change. 10 K is just too dirty
and with the dyno in the blend it can break down faster than the
fully synthetic oil.
Sean
My bad. It is T-6 the fully synthetic Ive been running
Thank you BPofMD, You're right but sometimes it's a matter of neccessity. I don't like those long cranks with no results and pumping the raw fuel through the engine and exhaust can't be good either. I'm not like some folks I've seen that open up the air filter and drench their turbo with starter fluid. I spray about 10 seconds into the hose on the front of the filter housing. I do however appriciate your concern.
My Scangauge 2 readings are good, HPO +/- 600, +/- 22%, 47-48.5 FICM and the OEM Oil Presure goes right up to normal during cranking.
My GPCM is probably not fuctioning since all GPs are registering a code. How do I test the GPCM?
I bought the cord for the block heater but haven't got around to installing it.
Your FICM is in two main parts. The power board and the logic board.
The Powerboard takes battery voltage 12v and steps it up 4 times to 48v
12 X 4= 48. Basically just a step up transformer. 11v=44v and so on.
This is why I say before you condem the FICM be shure you have the right input voltage. Ford considers 45v or less a FICM in need of repair.
The Logic board distributes that 48v to the injection components thru circuits and other components a complex board. Potential for many individual circuit failuers. This is why you can have 48v input but still have a bad FICM as preveously mentioned.
There are several fuses and relay involved [2005] Under hood box; Fuse 5 50a IDM[Ficm] fuse 15 15a IDM logic fuse 18 10a IDM Relay feed Relay 304
One Cylinder !...I'd quit using starting fluid! Not recommended at all for the 6.0 or newer Ford engines!!! Hazardous to YOUR health .
kbf1961 - if you want to help yourself pick up a ScanGauge II or equiv so you can see what's happening first hand.
Thanks. I do have a scangauge II. What should I check for? I did an oil change and most of the cold start smoke cleared up after a couple of days, which makes me think stiction, but what should I look for with the scangauge?
