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More a contribution test that just going for codes.
If you know someone that had access to an IDS and VCM I or II
that will give you the info on what hole is lagging, Also check
the oil level in the crankcase to rule out any fuel leaking.
Sort of sounds like stiction. Leave the truck over night so it's
cold when they start it and have the gear hooked up and watching
how it is acting on the screen.
Sean
Sean, will an auto enginuity reader give me that information?
First thing never use starting fluid in a diesel that has glow-plugs, they can go BOOM.
Had a very similar problem during cool weather, the batteries when about 5 years old were to weak to heat the glow-plugs, it would crank for a long time and slowly start hitting and would blow lots of white smoke, would not catch on all cylinders, very rough.
On warmer days it may start up easier but not like it should and would run rough and smoke until it warmed up.
If it did start and run good enough to drive it things would straighten out and run great , the rest of the day it would start perfectly.
Ended up melting the solder joints in the control module for the glow-plugs and had to re-solder.
Replaced both batteries and no more problems, this was 5 years ago.
I would check the batteries and the alternator and make sure you have good contact on all connections.
Sean, will an auto enginuity reader give me that information?
From what I hear the AE won't do well with the contribution testing.
But I understand it does well on the rest. If I am wrong on that
someone will chime in on it.
The AutoEnginenuity software will do fine for checking injectors and find weak, failing or failed injectors. I think first you ought to check your batteries with a load tester or if they are 4 or more years old go ahead and replace them. Low voltage can cause lots of problems and cause electronics to fail. I see you have replaced your PCM has that been recently? With the Ford software upgrade that warms the injectors before each start to help prevent stiction doesn't like low voltage either. While you are checking your batteries you ought to check your alternator also.
The AutoEnginenuity software will do fine for checking injectors and find weak, failing or failed injectors. I think first you ought to check your batteries with a load tester or if they are 4 or more years old go ahead and replace them. Low voltage can cause lots of problems and cause electronics to fail. I see you have replaced your PCM has that been recently? With the Ford software upgrade that warms the injectors before each start to help prevent stiction doesn't like low voltage either. While you are checking your batteries you ought to check your alternator also.
I would have to do a bit of looking but there was some problems about that option
not reporting a sick injector correctly. Showed up more in the contribution testing.
You would get a nice flat line with the AE and then put it on an IDS system and one
injector may be drooping so that you no longer had that nice flat line that you should
see when all injectors are healthy.
I agree on the battery voltage. Letting it droop can kill the FICM and then onto the injectors.
Depending on miles on that puppy, sounds like you really need to look at both GLow plug harnesses and potentially 8 glow plugs. This is a job but the parts are not that bad. You can do the two sides of harnesses and see if the codes go away, or you can just pull both inner fenders and do all 8 GPs while your there. Ether could be part of the problem, it would be interesting to know if you have any GPs working with a new harness given the use of Ether. I would also get that block heater cord on there. The more you run like this the more the sensors get coked up and the more EGRs get stuck and plugged.
The AutoEnginenuity software will do fine for checking injectors and find weak, failing or failed injectors. I think first you ought to check your batteries with a load tester or if they are 4 or more years old go ahead and replace them. Low voltage can cause lots of problems and cause electronics to fail. I see you have replaced your PCM has that been recently? With the Ford software upgrade that warms the injectors before each start to help prevent stiction doesn't like low voltage either. While you are checking your batteries you ought to check your alternator also.
The batteries are a year old 850's from NAPA. Brand new Mechman 250 and 2/0 wiring
Depending on miles on that puppy, sounds like you really need to look at both GLow plug harnesses and potentially 8 glow plugs. This is a job but the parts are not that bad. You can do the two sides of harnesses and see if the codes go away, or you can just pull both inner fenders and do all 8 GPs while your there. Ether could be part of the problem, it would be interesting to know if you have any GPs working with a new harness given the use of Ether. I would also get that block heater cord on there. The more you run like this the more the sensors get coked up and the more EGRs get stuck and plugged.
Its got 160000 miles on it, 70000 of which are mine. Ive been running T6 rotella since shortly after I bought it. I have ran it as many as 10000 between oil changes a couple of times. Im starting to think it is something other than stiction because it is rather intermittent. I suppose it is time to just start throwing parts at it because of the miles. Glow plugs and harnesses. What about the module? Whats the regular service life on those things?
If you want to spend money like it free running water then throwing parts
at the problem is the way to go at it. If you don't have access to a good
scan tool then take it to Ford and have them diagnose it and you do the work.
If you want to spend money like it free running water then throwing parts
at the problem is the way to go at it. If you don't have access to a good
scan tool then take it to Ford and have them diagnose it and you do the work.
Sean
That is definetly not the case. What is a good scan tool to have?
Lets see.
1 IDS VCM2 (Can get Chinese clone) ***
2 Snap-On Solus Pro or newer
3 https://www.autoenginuity.com with Ford package ***
*** Will need Laptop.
If you go for the real thing the IDS and Snap-On are very close
in price but the IDS will need to be updated each year as the software
license only is for a year and is about $600 ~ $700 not sure on that one.
The Snap-On you buy and then your good to go. You can update it if you
want to and would like to have the new options but you don't have to.
Also the Snap-On update seems to be running about $1000 But you can
use it on almost any thing.
