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My 2007 has started to run very bad when I don't let if warm up before leaving in the morning. Now it can be 80 degrees outside but if I start it and leave in say three minutes or so , she studders and jerks going down the road , BUT once the thermostat opens and the water temp rises she smooths out and runs fine , which takes like three miles or so. .... If I crank it and let it idle in driveway until the water temp raises then take off it runs fine ,,, can this in some way be related to the fuel leak problem I posted earlier. I will get that fixed today or tomorrow with a new oring. Part #3C3Z-9C065-AA.
My 6.0 does the exact same thing. I have to let it warm up for a bit or itll buck and jerk for a little bit, then smooth out and run like a top. I thought maybe it was just my truck but I drove my dads 6.0 today, fired it up and took off and it was having similar symptoms.
Maybe a 6.0 expert will come along, but from what Iv read, when the standpipes start going bad, they'll cause cold start problems
Stiction. Spool valves are hanging up a bit when it's cold.
They make additives that might help. If prover to be stiction
the sure cure is injector spool valve cleaning or injector replacement.
What oil are you using and grade? Also dirty oil can accelerate stiction
in diesel injectors it. Here is a little info on how our injectors work, Questions & Answers Regarding Powerstroke Cold Start Problems and Injector Issues
Also you might ask Bo from BoKnowsDiesel about his product. I have
not tried that so can't speak about it.
Thanks Sean,
I would agree about it most likely being a stiction problem. The additive approach is viable option for clearing it up. What we have with the Hot Shot's Secret mimics actually tearing the injectors apart and cleaning the spools by hand. We use a very strong detergent that will slowly clean out the oil side of the injectors. It can be a long process, sometimes taking a full 1,500 miles to clean them out. The other type of additives use hyper-lubricants (nano-borates in various esters) that will essentially lubricate the stiction to the point where it isn't an issue. Most guys tend to see a quicker response with the hyper-lubes, but the trade off is they don't clean as well.
If you can get some live data with a scanner, check the FICM output. That is other culprit for running rough. If it stays above 45 volts (48 is optimal) consistently, its most likely stiction
Stiction. Spool valves are hanging up a bit when it's cold.
They make additives that might help. If prover to be stiction
the sure cure is injector spool valve cleaning or injector replacement.
What oil are you using and grade? Also dirty oil can accelerate stiction
in diesel injectors it. Here is a little info on how our injectors work, Questions & Answers Regarding Powerstroke Cold Start Problems and Injector Issues
Also you might ask Bo from BoKnowsDiesel about his product. I have
not tried that so can't speak about it.
Sean
I use 13 quarts of 15W-40 Rotella Triple Protection with two quarts of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer , I change it every 7500 miles ,,,,,,
Where can I get some of that oil additive ASAP. I'm fixing to go on Vacation Monday driving 800 miles one way , this would probably be a great time to run some cleaner thru it
Thanks Sean,
I would agree about it most likely being a stiction problem. The additive approach is viable option for clearing it up. What we have with the Hot Shot's Secret mimics actually tearing the injectors apart and cleaning the spools by hand. We use a very strong detergent that will slowly clean out the oil side of the injectors. It can be a long process, sometimes taking a full 1,500 miles to clean them out. The other type of additives use hyper-lubricants (nano-borates in various esters) that will essentially lubricate the stiction to the point where it isn't an issue. Most guys tend to see a quicker response with the hyper-lubes, but the trade off is they don't clean as well.
If you can get some live data with a scanner, check the FICM output. That is other culprit for running rough. If it stays above 45 volts (48 is optimal) consistently, its most likely stiction
I use 13 quarts of 15W-40 Rotella Triple Protection with two quarts of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer , I change it every 7500 miles ,,,,,,
Where can I get some of that oil additive ASAP. I'm fixing to go on Vacation Monday driving 800 miles one way , this would probably be a great time to run some cleaner thru it
Switch to a full synthetic 5W-40 when you do the HSS oil additive. Going to the lighter oil might do the trick by itself. Mine is having the same issue but I don't drive it a lot and will do the change later, especially since I can just plug it in for a few hours and it runs like a champ (and blowing heat!) right away.
I want to try the HSS but with the 13 quarts of 15W-40 Rotella Triple Protection with two quarts of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer , I just changed this pass Saturday. I was thinking about draining out 2 qts and adding the 2qts HSS ... I leaving on a 800 mile run one way and would like to do it now. Or should I really wait till I change it again and not use the Lucas at all and run a thinner oil THEN ADD the HSS??????..........
That Lucas is thick as molasses. It is not helping your situation at all. I'd dump the oil, refill it with 13 qts. of Rotella T6 5w40 and add the 2 qt jug of Hot Shots Secret additive. I wouldn't be surprised if by the end of your trip you saw results.
Yea I know but damn , just changed it two days ago. But I guess it's the right thing to do .... I'll leave the filter on though right , u think. Lol. Yes I'm tight.
I just got back in to look at this.I was going to say get rid of the Lucas.
Go to straight Rotella T6. It will take 2 or more changes to clear most the oil and
additive from the system to say the lease. You have a few quarts that hang
out in the HPOP system. There is not really any easy way to clear that out
short of an oil cooler change and pull the rails over the heads. You may
find that with the T6 in there it settles down.
The 6.0l Uses a HEUI injector system and that is why they are so sensitive
about oil and contaminates in the oil. The heavy oil can mess with the timing.
It's a millisecond thing. Too thick and you get slow acting injectors. Late to open
and late to close and over fueling.
We are coming onto Spring and things are warming up. Try and flush out the
Lucas with a change or two. Then see how it runs.
I would switch to a synthetic oil and add about 16 oz. of AR9100 friction modifier to the oil. If that does not do it, then you probably have other issues other than stiction.
I normally run my oil 10K to 12K miles before I change it. I have used Royal Purple 20W-50 synthetic oil since day one and AR9100 for the last year. I have 125K on the clock.
One more thing. Mine use to run bad on start up. It would miss, stall, stumble on cold mornings. Once it warmed up, it was fine. On hot days it was fine from start to finish. So I figured it was not a stiction issue. Back in December I sent my FICM to Ed for the Ultimate Upgrade and the Atlas 80 tune. The truck runs awesome and fuel mileage has increased from 13.0 to 16.5 MPG. Came out to start about a week ago when the temp was 0. Started right up, dropped it in gear and went. Never hesitated. Truck runs the best since I have owned. Highly recommend the FICM upgrade and tune.
