well today after the above tests i put it back in put blue rtv on the motor to seal that and caulked the controller cover and put it all back in as i got a used unit from ebay and figured i have nothing to lose and if i needed to drive the truck it would not be in pcs. and the abs light went off go figure. the motor must have turned on and built the required pressure and shut off and the alarm went of by itself. now i don't have away yet to go out and slam the brakes to see if they come on and the alarm comes back on as the snow is all but gone from the roads now. so it may wait a day or to for me to find a dirt road to see.

tell me if i just change it out as i think this one will fail again and most likely in the winter when i will need it the most if i remove the lines how much brake bleeding will be required? i wonder it the master cylinder circuit will self bleed and with the way the lines are going i will have only 2" of air to deal with? anyone have a clue here? thanks

 

Ok, good to hear you seem to now have a positive result & all seems well.
Not clear on the additional work your wanting to do.

 

what i was asking if anyone knows this? if i change out the abs unit how much brake bleeding will i wind up with. i think the master cylinder circuit will self bleed but will the rest of the system need to be bleed? i don't see losing much fluid being the line drop down and only about an inch or so. i have heard that i should not have to bleed them but i wanted to find out from hear if anyone has done this. i got a used pump system and i will just replace it as i don't trust this one, i figure it will stop working about winter time. thanks

 

I'm no ABS system guru, but from what I've read, if we change the ABS system valving, or open the lines around it, we risk getting air into the valving & we'll need to put a vacuum on the system & use a high end scantool that's able to actuate the ABS valving in order to flush old fluid out, or remove any air in the valving & that can be tricky on some systems.
If your in doubt about the old valving, or the fluid in it, maybe consider doing a normal system fluid flush from the brake master cylinder to each wheel cyl, to get all new fluid in there, then take it out for the road test & lock up the wheels so the valving gets exercised & see how it goes.
With all new fluid in the lines it'll sorta flush itself a little. Then you could bleed say the front wheels again, as their lines are the shortest run to the master cyl, & see if any crud comes out.
If the system performed ok on the road test & the fluid looks ok after the road test re-bleed, then you'd likely feel your good to go.
If you decide to replace the ABS valving, seeing as its used & unknown condition internally, you'd want to have a trusted brake shop exercise/purge the replacement valving to get new fluid in there & make sure its working as needed.


If you don't get a reply from an ABS guru here, querry a trusted local brake shop that has a really good reputation for knowing what their doing, for advice, before tearing into the system.
At least let them quote on flushing the system to exercise the ABS valving, so you have an idea of cost in case you have to go that way after the work.
Some thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

that is a great idea. i did chack the fuses and they were all ok. that was the first step in troubleshooting this problem. start with the easiest then go one.

took truck out today and the light is still off. now to get the abs light to turn off. i'm hoping it will reset after i drive it a few more times. if not i ordered one of the scanners from obdii & can professional scan tool cen-tech 10 mode.
now to figure out where a coolant leaks is coming from on the top side of the front engine area. thanks for the help so far forums are great help.