ok i have a 2001 ranger 3.0 auto 2wd and the abs light is on. this is what i have done so far. i had to replace all the front end joints so i took the front sensors and ohmed them and got continuity and voltage when i ran a metal past them and the same for the rear on the diff. so i figure they are fine. the wires to the frame look ok and i the truck has no damage so i figure the wires are fine. i checked to see if the fuses are installed after i got the fuse layout and all the fuses are there and good. so i took it to advance auto and it came back with everything bad sensors motor controller and if anything else could be bad with the abs it said it was. i tole them it is impossible for all of it to be bad. so it must be the controller. no i'm thinking the controller it the box attached to the abs pump and lines at the power distribution box under the hood.

tell me what you think. and can i just remove that box and replace it with little difficulty or will i have parts fly out all over the place if i remove that box from the pump? all the pictures i see the the abs controller don't look the same as the one i have on my abs pump. any ideas? thanks

 

Post All of the ABS trouble code Numbers found.

 

i don't have them they told me it started with the left front then the right fron then the motor then the rear then the controller and they said others and i gave up. my guess is it is the controller. can't be all the other items according to some you tube check i found they said i could ohm the sensors and if i have continuity they shoud be fine. and when i had them in my hands they did not look damaged or the wires.

i guess i can go back and get a printout tomorrow for he group to figure out. thanks

 

The ABS computer on most rangers is located in the dash behind the radio Bezel, If you remove the Bezel and the radio it should be the black box on the right. There will be a visible part number on it you can Google if you are unsure. It is easy to get to.

I am assuming you've checked your break fluid level, if not check that.
Having the trouble codes would really help.

 

yes the fluid level is up. the guy that i got the truck from installed an aftermarket radio i wonder if he may have removed that or disconnected it or something? even cut wires? i will check today and get back with what i find. what is the box connected to the brake motor is that just the motor controller? i did unplug that and reconnect it to make sure it was connected and was free of water and rust etc. thanks for the help


ok here is the codes for the porblems it has
c1155
c1233
c1145
c1234
c1230
c1095
b1676
p0733

any ideas what all this is about. i can't believe all the sensors are bad but these codes are leading to something. thanks



.

 

Ok good idea to post All trouble code Numbers.
P0733 = Incorrect 3rd gear ratio, so are you having tranny shifting problems????
B1676 = Battery pack voltage out of range. Check batt & alternator under load output. If its out of range it could affect the ABS computer & tranny shifting.
C1095 = ABS Hydraulic Pump Motor Circuit Failure. Check fuses, wiring, electrical connectors & their pins & sockets.
C1145-C1234 = Front & rear speed sensor no input signals. Same check as C1095. Seeing as you had them disconnected, check their electrical connectors & pins/sockets
Seeing as how the ABS is electrically operated, make sure the battery & alternator voltage under load are in spec & that the ABS computer is getting its full share. Check battery to body & engine grounds & for voltage drop across those connections & let us know how it goes.

 

i even took the connection off under the cad on the drivers side and the connections looked good and they were not wet on the inside. the outside was some wet but the seal looked like it was doing it's job and the screw was tight.

thanks i will look for missing grounds. but as far as the abs controller where is that located. it is not in the dash by the radio to the right as suggested. there is a module to the left but when i removed that the chimes did not sound with the lights on and door closed or key in the ign. etc. so that may not be the abs controller. i find it hard to believe the i could have this many problems. the truck is not beat up not at all rusted in fact one reason i got it was it was a clean looking truck. it did have this abs lite on but i did not figure that to be a big issue. if i find over the next few weeks i can't find the problem then i will just remove the light. the other guy had tape over it. i see a lot of ranger guys disconnect the abs because they have other issues. the brakes work fine without the abs working but i would like to have it work if possible. thanks

 

The black box to the left is the GEM, that controls all your general electronics not your ABS. When in doubt you can Google the number on the box itself and see exactly what the module does. I am kinda shocked that the ABS module isnt in there. I will look in the books and see if i cant find it for you.

 

ok this is what i did today and what i found today. i took the front wheels off and checked to make sure for a fact the front sensors were in place and i look down inside the rotors and did not see any debris and the reluctors were both about 1/32" from the sensor and not touching and even all around. all the holes were clear and the plugs were clean. then i took a meter and ohmed them left front hat these numbers
left front 2000 ohm scale 1049 2oom volt scale i turned the rotor and got 5.0 volts
right front 2000 ohm scale 1068 200m volt scale i turned the rotor and got 5.9 volts
rear 2000 ohm scale 1830 200m volt scale i turned the wheel and got 3.6 volt

then i took the controller out a bit and removed the controller and i measured the wires tot he motor and did not get any ohm's so i tried each to ground and nothing and then i put 12 volts from the battery tot he motor and it did not turn with the power wires going either way. the back side of the controller had one of those what i think are coils with corrosion on it.

so tell me should the pump motor turn with 12 volts applied to the wires?

on another note with the b1676 code i have 12.1 volts on the battery it is a 725 cca battery then i load tested that and it went to the weak zone and then to 11.9 volts after the test. the alt puts out 14.2 volts when running. we will forget the p0733 that is not related

i took the cover off the controller and i don's see anything out of the ordinary the solder joints all are good in appearance and the sealing epoxy is not corroded or missing

so in recapping i find it hard to beleive the wheel sensors are the problem being i get continuity and volts when turned but the pump motor may be the problem and the controller i can't tell. can the pump motor be removed with out having to bleed the system? i have a handle on a pump unit i can get and replace the complete thing. would be easier any ideas? thanks

 

Good feedback on the battery load test & standing/no load voltage/state of charge test.
12.1 no load volts = about 50% soc on the battery. Put a sulfated battery, weak cell, weak alternator on the suspect list.
Try unhooking the B- battery cable, if removable cell caps, check soc with your hydrometer to see how each cell soc is doing.
Top up electrolyte level with distilled water & recharge the battery over night at a slow rate, at say 4-8 amps with a smart charger & see if it can wake the battery up.
Then reconnect the battery cable, start the vehicle & turn on every heavy electrical load you can think of, like head & fog lights, flashers, AC, blower on High speed, cigar lighter pushed in, wipers on high speed & see how the alternator output does with all that load on it with the engine at about 2000-2500 rpm.
Once you get the vehicle voltage supply right, then turn to the ABS woes.
I'm not sure how best to check the ABS hydraulic pump motor, but your code says the circuit, maybe not the motor, has the problem when it does its self test. Maybe a ABS guru will chime in & enlighten us on how best to check the ABS hydraulic motor.
EDIT: Seeing that the ABS computer isn't detecting that Any speed sensor is connected, check its electrical connector pins/sockets & wiring are ok & plugged in properly.

 

well i will put in a known good battery tomorrow and test the volts but i think this is not the problem.

can anyone tell me if the abs pump motor can be removed from the rest of the unit and just that replaced without taking the lines off the hydraulic part of the assemble? i have a line on a pump unit but if i don't have to remove the lines that would be the best. then what i will do is take off the motor and controller and put them on my hydraulic unit.

also can anyone tell me if the motor should turn with 12 volts put to the leads at the connector? thanks

 

I'm not suggesting that the battery is the Only problem, but the ABS system is electrically operated & for it to behave, it needs the specified power.
Right now, with the codes saying that there is no connection to Any speed sensor, or to the ABS Hydraulic motor, I'm suggesting you may have an electrical connector or wiring harness connection problem at the ABS computer, or a blown ABS computer.
If for instance the alternator output has a lot of AC ripple on it because of leaky diodes, that ripple can fry solid state components. Once you get the battery squared away & load test it & the alternator, have the alternator output checked for AC ripple, especially if you find the ABS computer fried, or have been hearing a buzz in the radio speakers.

 

Look in your owner manual & check engine compartment power distribution box ABS fuses & ABS power relay #3 my manual shows it to be, but check your owner manual for the proper relay. It supplies 12 volts B+ to the ABS pump motor when its activated. Maybe swap out the power relay for a like one not needed to run the engine, as Ford power relays are a known problem part. If the ABS power relay isn't working, or has a bad internal contact, it can kill power to the ABS motor. Check electrical connector C153, that connects to the ABS controller, the pump motor & all of the speed sensors are fed to the ABS controller through it.

 

no buzzing radio and i took the module off the hydraulic unit today and cut it open and i did not see any sign of burnt components. nor any bad solder joints.

i tried to get the motor to turn by putting battery voltage directly to the motor plug and nothing not even continuity.

this morning i took the motor off the hydraulic body and i could not turn the motor but then i got it to turn and then i put 12 volts to it and it turned i put voltage both ways but i did not see if the motor reversed it direction or not. guess that doesn't matter. i pulled the motor partially out of the housing and the commutator looked some burnt and worn so this think may have just burnt itself out and froze up.

i have a handle on a ebay unit i will get for the motor and controller. i will just put the motor and controller on my hydraulic body so i don't have to re-bleed the system. providing that is not toast as well? or is it possible to remove the lines and not have to bleed them. thanks

 

If the ABS hydraulic pump motor is seized & looks to have been over heated from pulling too much current, I'd change its under hood power relay for sure, as its contacts have likely been over heated. Check fuses too as suggested above.