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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Steering wheel removal?

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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 09:30 AM
  #1  
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Steering wheel removal?

What's the easiest way to remove a bonus built(48-52) steering wheel without destroying it?
Drill and tap some holes? Or?
Thanks
 
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 10:03 AM
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You just need a steering wheel puller. It's easy. I got one a Sears, but most big box places or your local auto parts dealer.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 10:09 AM
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They cost about 8 bucks. Later trucks have tapped holes in the wheel to help though. Not sure on earlier stuff.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 10:30 AM
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My 52 has two tapped holes on either side of the center hole. Remove the horn button and you will see the two holes. The center nut is then removed. Now you use your puller. You will notice the steering shaft has a recess in the end of it. That's where you put the working end of the puller which come with a pointed attachment. The kit I got had a couple of different threaded long bolts which go into the threaded holes. The threads didn't match, so I had to get those.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 10:33 AM
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Not sure what a "bonus built" wheel is, but are you saying it does not already have tapped holes in the hub for removal?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 10:46 AM
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I was thinking this type if no holes. Scroll down to #4
Need help with steering wheel puller
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-Vintage-Steering-Wheel-Puller-CG-60-/121565694255?hash=item1c4de1492f&item=121565694255&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr
Sometimes--sometimes , you can put the nut back on the shaft (even with the top of the shaft so you don't mushroom the shaft) and tap it with a hammer while pulling up on the wheel.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Outlaw56
Not sure what a "bonus built" wheel is, but are you saying it does not already have tapped holes in the hub for removal?
Don't know if that was for me but the holes a tapped. Bonus Built refers to the deluxe cabs.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 11:24 AM
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Zoot, yes that was for you. So you cant just use a standard wheel puller and pop it off without drilling and tapping holes?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 11:27 AM
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Well now, I feel sheepish.......

At first glance I didn't see any holes....but after thinking back to the last time I did this, I removed the nut and horn contact.
Lo and behold, threaded holes!

Thanks for the responses anyway!
 
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 12:08 PM
  #10  
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Lol, been there done that. Seriously doubt you could match me and my "most embarrassing posts".
 
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 12:18 PM
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Great thread. I will have to pull my wheel someday to fill the cracks or replace it. Now I know how to remove it. I don't remember seeing any holes when I installed the horn button on my 51.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 12:57 PM
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Joe.....tip on removing those old steering wheels. Once you get the puller installed, get some pressure on it and then tap the wheel gently and they sometimes pop right off. I used the two part epoxy clay to fill those open cracks. Before I filled them, I put a small bit on the dremell tool and slightly scuffed the surface to recieve the epxoy putty. Those areas where I had hairline cracks, I used a small bit on the dremell to open them far enough to recieve the putty. I have never had one crack where I repaired it but in all fairness, the repairs do not have a lot of use on them. They do come out flawless once you paint them. but they must be painted to cover the patches if you dont want them to stand out.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ZOOT
Bonus Built refers to the deluxe cabs.
Actually, Bonus Built was an advertising slogan used by Ford to describe their new truck in 1948, and it stuck for several years. Here on the forum, we use the term to identify the 48-52's as opposed to the 53-56's.



 
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Outlaw56
Joe.....tip on removing those old steering wheels. Once you get the puller installed, get some pressure on it and then tap the wheel gently and they sometimes pop right off. I used the two part epoxy clay to fill those open cracks. Before I filled them, I put a small bit on the dremell tool and slightly scuffed the surface to recieve the epxoy putty. Those areas where I had hairline cracks, I used a small bit on the dremell to open them far enough to recieve the putty. I have never had one crack where I repaired it but in all fairness, the repairs do not have a lot of use on them. They do come out flawless once you paint them. but they must be painted to cover the patches if you dont want them to stand out.
Thanks for the tip. I was planning to use JB Weld to repair it.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 02:07 PM
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I did a lot of research and from what I read, POR 14 epxoy putty (two part) was a good choice for me. Its two clay bars. They are each wrapped seperately. When needed you kneed them together and force the clay into the breaks/cracks. JB Weld may be just as good, but whatever I read steered me towards the POR15 two part epoxy putty.
 
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