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Getting longer starts in the cold weather lately, I'm thinking it's electrical. I'm going on a memory limb here, but IIRC each battery has a 0ga ground to the chassis? With Ed's "complete cable kit" in addition to the new positive cabling he adds an alternator to chassis ground, but would there be any benefit to adding more grounds, ie battery to alt, or a battery ground interconnect? I haven't pulled out the multimeter to test for any voltage drops yet, but before I go to a larger alternator I want to make sure the wiring is holding up it's end.
Voltage drop testing would show you the weak points that
you want to deal with. This will show even if all the current
cables are 100% good. When you reach the limit of a cable it
heats and you loose conductivity do to that heating. It's becomes
a tail chase.
Im pretty sure now that the longer starts were the ICP sensor failing more than batteries, and the starts seeming slower was my imagination. New ICP will be coming in from Clay, we'll see if that does it.
I'm still curious if a ground interconnect or batt to alt ground would help in addition to Ed's complete kit. Anyone add more wires?
I just added an extra #1 ground from the alternator base to the frame. My voltage seems to not fluctuate as much. It stays at 14v after the glow plugs turn off. Before it would run 13.7v to 14.3v. I didn't notice any difference with the way it starts.
Sssooooo........... Let me get this straight. On a 2006 F250 PSD the passenger side negative battery cable goes all the way down and attaches to the front passenger side of the engine block correct?
BUT, the driver side negative cable just attaches to the frame below the air cleaner correct?
Is that partly why the passenger side battery seems to take most of the starting load and usually fails first?
If so, would running a heavy gauge ground cable from the driver side battery to the engine block help with starter loads? Just like the passenger side negative battery cable.
Sssooooo........... Let me get this straight. On a 2006 F250 PSD the passenger side negative battery cable goes all the way down and attaches to the front passenger side of the engine block correct?
BUT, the driver side negative cable just attaches to the frame below the air cleaner correct?
Is that partly why the passenger side battery seems to take most of the starting load and usually fails first?
If so, would running a heavy gauge ground cable from the driver side battery to the engine block help with starter loads? Just like the passenger side negative battery cable.
Bruce
Passenger battery feeds the starter through a shorter positive wire. The driver side positive wire is long and runs across in front of the radiator to the passenger battery.
This is why you jump start it on the passenger side battery.
Yeah I got the positive cable thing figured out. I was just wondering about the driver side negative cable running to the frame and not to the engine block.
Okay, problem? Here is a pic of a 6.0 starter and a 6.4 starter. Take note of the drives. You sure the 6.4 will work on the 6.0? They both show 12 tooth drives and 3.0kw output power. But the 6.0 starter say's it has a 4.75:1 ratio where the 6.4 doesn't specify.
Okay, I crawled under her a little bit ago. She already has the offset PMGR style starter, NOT the straight style. SO, would there be an advantage to using the 6.4L starter anyway? B.
