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Looking at a Curt Class III hitch for my '78 - I have a 38 gallon tank mounted where the spare used to be and it's a snug fit... the side flanges of the tank mount kind of up and inside the rear frame rails. Looking at the drawing of the Curt hitch, it bolts to the bottom surface of the frame rails there - has anyone ever mounted the hitch with that tank? I'm thinking if the hitch bolts are too long I may need shorter bolts, but I'm also wondering whether the install is a giant Chinese puzzle or if it's pretty straightforward.
Or, is there an easier-mounting hitch I should consider instead?
Judging by the hitch drawings they sent me that is correct.
Bolts pointed down.... d'oh!!! Yep, that'll work. Worst case I may need to loosen the tank to shift it enough to get the bolts in place and then tighten everything down, probably using a crowfoot on the bolt heads. That big tank is a pain in the butt in some respects... NO BODY makes a gas gauge sender for it, the closest one I think is a 33 gallon sender.
Check with U-haul for a bolt set. They use carriage bolts that the square part of the head fits into a piece of flat steel, so you don't have to get a wrench on the bolt head. Or make your own with grade 8 carriage bolts.
I'd get some steel plate, drill thru-holes and insert the bolts. Then weld their heads to the plate. Then cut the plate into small squares so there is little to no need need to hold their heads while the nuts are tightened.
See the top right in the pic below. Oh, also found a Pertronix in the yard too...:
Buckin69 - the problem on the 38 gallon tank is that the tank is twice as deep - the total arc of a normal tank's float is about half te depth of the tank. (So even if you extend the pick-up tube, the tank will either read full forever before dropping or empty forever before running out of gas.)My solution is to angle the float arm off toward the corner of the tank, and crimp and solder an extension on it. That should make the float arm twice as long, so that its vertical arc will go from the bottom of the tank to the top. But that's a warmer-weather fix!
OK, updated question - back in the days these trucks were built people towed ANYTHING with a ball on the step bumper, and I see step bumpers with quite high tow capacity ratings. My step bumper appears to be original, rust free, and firmly bolted directly to the same frame rails to which I would bolt a Curt hitch. Would buying a new hitch be redundant? Should I just go with a step bumper hitch? Any idea how to guesstimate the capacity of the bumper (I looked and there is nothing stamped in that I can see.) Any thoughts on that? (I m NOT intending to haul anything too heavy, 2-3000 pounds max. I need a different truck for anything heavier)
Don't quote me on this but I was thinking that the step bumpers had a rating of somewhere around 500lbs tongue weight/5000lbs pulling. I know my 99expedition had a 400/4000lbs capacity bumper or something.
Some of the factory bumpers had a high rating... re-pops do not. I think the receiver under the bumper is a better height and stronger even with factory bumper.
I just installed the 38 gallon tank in my '78 with older receiver hitch. The tank is snug against the side flanges of the hitch but it all fits. I did keep the tank loose to position it as I installed the hitch. As far as bolts, the front and back are not too bad. I can just get a box wrench wiggled in place from below to hold the middle as I hit it with a light impact. The grade 8 carriage bolt/steel strip sounds easier/better.
As you said, the fuel pickup is a bit Micky Mouse with the 38 gallon tank. I don't expect my fuel gauge to move much at all off F until I have burned up half a tank. Once it starts moving I'll figure range remaining based on a 19 gallon tank... not ideal but workable. We'll see. I'll still enjoy the range.
I also did not use the copper extension tube in the kit... not crazy about depending on a copper to steel epoxy joint. I extended the pickup with a length of larger steel tube overlapped, welded and sealed with epoxy.
Maybe some pics later... hopefully with spare installed underneath also.
Sounds like we have similar set-ups. I am debating - where the Curt hitch would mount I need new holes, so that section of the frame would be thoroughly Swiss-cheesed. Second alternative, bolt a receiver hitch to the bumper itself to get more flexibility in mounts. Or, just go with the existing bumper and buy an extra ball if needed? The big question to me is the bumper rating... looking at the market I see some that are 500 TW/5000 tow, but I also see 200TW/2000 tow, and I certainly don't want to hang 3000 pounds on that! May have to let this one go till I find the right camper and match to that.
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