I'm hoping someone can help me out here- '94 E-350 5.8L, cranking, not starting (not even farting like it wants to start) I've checked EVERYTHING I can thank of that would have to do with normally needed to start: Fuel pump powers on and line pressure with key on is 35-50. 12V at coil is good and spark tester at coil indicates there is output. Cap and rotor look good, there is spark to each cylinder as I took the wire off at each plug and used a spark tester. I've used a noid light on each injector harness, it has power. I checked the resistance on each injector and it's all within spec. I have to assume I'm getting fuel, I can safely assume I'm getting spark, but something's amiss. Any ideas? I'm leaning towards something sensor-wise but I'm truly at a loss.

The last time it ran was about a week ago, we've had a string of sub and below zero weather and I've already added a couple bottles of iso heat but still, to no avail. PLEASE HELP!

 

Tell me about it..........for the past 3 weeks...........

Read what you did, and checked for.

Your getting spark and signals at the injectors, That's a good sign.

My thought is your not getting Fuel. Yes, you checked the fuel pump and rail pressure, and that's good, BUT, our era of 5.8's the ECM controls the fuel pump.

First, check the Electric Fuel Pump Inertia Switch, located on the passenger side kick panel, make sure the red "plunger" is pushed down tight. If you take the panel off you can also check the incoming voltage with the key ON.

Next......Check or swap the fuel pump relay in the power control box, near/under the brake master cylinder. (should be the 2nd one from the front)

Next........pull the air box and air duct off to get to the throttle body, While cranking, spray some starting fluid into the TB and see if it want to catch, or at worst, see if you have back-fire from the intake. Prop the TB plate open with a stick or screwdriver, but don't let it fall out.

If it wants to catch (start) then you know you have a fuel delivery issue.

Pull the ECM out and open the case, see if any of the capacitors are leaking "green looking matter" If they are, the ECM will need to be replaced.

If the ECM checks out, and this is the one that killed me for a "no start".....Check/Replace the MAP (Manifold Pressure Sensor) located on the top of the A/C Evaporator Core. This can be "tested" and make sure the vacuum line is plugged in (on both ends)

If the MAP is not sending the correct signal to the ECM, the ECM will not sent voltage to the fuel pump relay, during the "run" cycle, no fuel, no start. The fuel pump will charge up the rail in the "on" cycle, but without the ECM reading the MAP (vacuum pressure) it will cut off the fuel pump circuit/relay.

Also, there's a LINK to the sensor testing
And read up on what the MAP is and does.

Good luck

 

That's all great info, I'll check it out! Out of curiosity, would the IAC have anything to do with this? Depressing the accelerator when trying to start the van doesn't chane anything but could it be shot completely? Is there any way to temporarily bypass it completely to atleast get it running?

Also, this is a box Van, does that change the location of the inertia switch, ECM, fuel pump relay or any other component you mentioned? I have located the MAP sensor.

Thanks for all your info!

 

The locations I mentioned are for most all vans in the '92-'96 era.

Even the cut-aways, or "cube vans, box vans" which is what I've been working with for the past 13 years, first a '94 and now a '92, amazing how many parts are interchangeable over a couple of years
(Which is why I bought the '92)

The IAC would effect Idle, either with a high idle (which is also caused by a vacuum intake leak) or a start then stalling issue.
One you have the air ducts off the TB, and it's running, you'll see a little hole on the front right side of the TB, just cover that hole with your finger, if the engine stalls or drops RMP, then you have a bad IAC, and replacement is better than cleaning.

You can by-pass the IAC with opening the throttle plates with a small stick, that will let the "fresh air" into the intake.

Your describing a "No Start" issue, once you get it started, then you can see how the idle is, high or stalling (choking).

As I wrote, I think your going to find that this is a fuel delivery issue.

I was thinking about this today..........It might be possible that with the Extreme cold shot we had, that the MAP might have fowled out from the cold.
We figured that mine went when I had a major intake gasket leak, and it just kind of plugged it's self out??

 

I checked everything you suggested, I ran the test on the map sensor. it's getting voltage. The OE sensor had no fluctuation in Hz so I changed it out, and even with the new one, still a no start. Took the ECM out and opened the case, the board looks clean. I'm thinking about testing the EEC relay, maybe that's shot? No power to the computer maybe? I'm not really in a position to do a compression check (too damn cold I mean!) to see if it's engine internal related but maybe I'll hook a vac gauge up and see if I'm atleast getting some vacuum when it cranks. Other than that, I'm out of ideas. I smell fuel up at the engine when it cranks so I'm pretty sure it's getting gas.

 

Is there any way to actually have the ECM tested to make sure it's good?

 

I just fixed mine with same issue. Found a bad connector down by the fuel filter.

If the check engine light does not come on you have no eec or power going too eec. Will crank and show a few other dash lights, but that us all.

 

If real cold weather, your spark plugs might be fuel fouled
You tried flood clear right? (flooring the gas, then trying to start it)
I would pull a few spark plugs to see if they are all wet
Do a code check just in case
The code test checks the processor and the noid lamp flashing while cranking is another indication that the processor is maybe okay
A good visual inspection of the capacitors in your processor is another test

 

Well, it's from 9years ago, but maybe the OP will do a follow up post.