It did the exact same symptom all over again . I went out to the store the other night after getting a temp registration for it that day , then on my way back from the store I was going up a small hill and it started sputtering and losing power then at the top of the hill it finally died and would not restart , these two guys jumped out of a pick-up truck and helped me push it out of the intersection .

I am thinking it has got to be those vacuum lines , so me and my dad are going to go through all of the vacuum lines and replace everyone of them .

!AeroGuy1212!

 

it sounds like a distributor/ignition issue, maybe the Coil Pack is dying. But who knows, a combination of vacuum and electric issues? a fuel pump dying? a fuel pump relay?

 

Those fuel pump cutoff switches have been known to act up and cause stalling. Did you notice if the fuel pump was running when you tried to start it after it stalled? If you put the key in ON (not START), the fuel pump should run for a few seconds then shut off.

 

A vacuum line would cause stumbling and stuttering at idle, which would diminish as the throttle gets opens more because the leak contributes a smaller percentage of the air that reaches the engine and would adversely affect its operation less.

The fact that you were climbing a hill tells me this event happened under load. As load increases, the engines fuel requirements and temperature also increase. This means that certain components can undergo more stress and may act up or fail under the stress. The most likely thing that I would point to for a sudden loss of power under load would be a lack of fuel. A failing fuel pump will act up as it heats up and can shut down entirely when fuel demand (and fuel pressure) is at its peak. Don't assume that because the weather is cold that the fuel pump can't overheat. The fuel pump becomes a particularly likely suspect if the van will mysteriously start and run after a long cool down.

Other components like coil packs may also exhibit weakness at higher load, but are unlikely to cause a complete stall.

A dirty MAF sensor may cause stalling, a simple test is to unplug the sensor, if the van runs better with it unplugged, then the sensor is dirty or defective.

 

Maybe I will change the fuel pump ... Thanks for the help.

 

Save this as a last resort effort, not a first choice. Pumps are generally very reliable and your issue sounds like something else. A few more details would help us. Engine size, any recent maintenance, mileage, etc??

 

read the codes, not all set the CEL or its bulb may be burned out

Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test

 

I agree, and everytime you turn the key to START, you should hear a gurgling sound followed by a sound that is identical to the walrus sound in The Beatle's song: "I Am The Walrus". I am not kiddin', it's identical.

 

I didn't say to just change the fuel pump. Your symptoms are consistent with a failed fuel pump. But that does not mean you should just randomly start replacing parts. Every component can be tested, and the fuel pump is no exception. When this no start condition is present, hook a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve and test the pressure. If it builds the correct pressure (35-42 psi) and the engine still won't start, then fuel delivery is not the issue, and you need to move to an electrical problem, possibly in the ignition.

Every part can be tested, and even if you spend a little more up from to purchase the test equipment, you almost always save money down the road by not having to replace a dozen parts in the hopes that one might fix the problem.

 

I agree with this 100%, throwing new parts at the problem is the way many like me always do it, and rarely fixing the problem. That's why I'm a Trial-N-Error-Nician. Part of the problem is that I cannot afford a Ford Rotunda Test Station.

 

Hey guys , I just read your latest post's , this all sounds like good advice , I am going to get out my Fuel pump test gauge and test the psi . And I am going to see if I can hear the pump start with Key-On position .

I was also just thinking of just replacing the fuel filter .

BTW , I have a 1995 Aerostar 3.0 L , XLT , 6 cyl .

Recent maintenance includes , replacement of distributor , replacement of plugs and wires . I also sprayed out the MAF with carb cleaner , maybe I should do that again . Also I will be checking my codes today .

I'll tell you guys what I find .

 

you could also spray the maf wire with isopropyl alcohol, usually found in your medicine cabinet. Cleans just as good if not better.

 

Also , the catalytic converters were replaced 3 yrs ago .

My paw is being stuck on thinking it is a vacuum problem .

 

I retrieved the codes today ... and I got as follows :65,94,56,565,94,565 And I went to this URL to check what they mean :http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/ ... Maybe I am on the right path ... I found some dry rotted vacuum hoses on the purge canister solenoid (i think) , and a long hose from the purge canister solenoid er something er other ... The hose went from the solenoid thing , and draped over the engine and went under the air cleaner ... I am going to replace it as it is VERY dry rotted ...

Ill let ya guys know what happens.

 

BTW I got another code , 64 ... 1 day ago . But that code is gone after replacing 1 hose on the vapor canister purge valve and cleaning the MAF with choke cleaner .

I'll be back.