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I think I got jinxed or jinxed myself concerning the clutch m.cyl. pushrod jumping off thread earlier this week. I bought a pivot bushing and installed it this morning. My trip to the sub shop turned to crap when pulling into a parking space. Depressed the clutch pedal and blam to the floor it went! Jammed on the brake before wiping out the car parked facing me. Whole end of the push rod hit the floor mat in 3 pieces. Then comes the fun of getting it home which would have been no problem were it not for that @#$^&&^ clutch safety switch. That **** is history! No tools except a small pocket multi-tool. I mutilated the switch and found a paper clip to jump the terminals inside the switch carcass. So my 15 minute trip turned into a hour and a half trip with getting it to my shop and driving the Escape back for the food and home again.
Now for the question, I have a junk cylinder laying on the floor of my parts truck. Is the push rod removable from the master? If so I'll just swap it or make a steel one with the heim joint as I've read of here.
I've also read somewhere that the clutch switch is in the harness of an automatic truck but jumped with a plug at the factory. Any truth to that?
Clutch master cyl, $28.69. Not bad and it shows to have the steel rod. Better to replace the whole thing for that. Guess I'll crawl under the dash of my automatic parts truck to investigate the plug. Either way the "safety" switch is gone!
I replaced my clutch master cylinder and it came with the metal push rod. I would recommend replacing the whole unit.
Hopefully you don't have the same luck I did. Less than a month later my slave cylinder went out too. But now I have a new clutch system lol. Put in a new clutch once the transmission came out.
Hopefully you don't have the same luck I did. Less than a month later my slave cylinder went out too. But now I have a new clutch system lol. Put in a new clutch once the transmission came out.
I would of left the clutch pedal on the floor. That would "bypass" the clutch switch. I did that on my 84 F250 when I blew the slave cylinder. It was a very fun drive towing a class-A motorhome with a blown clutch slave cylinder.......
I would of left the clutch pedal on the floor. That would "bypass" the clutch switch. I did that on my 84 F250 when I blew the slave cylinder. It was a very fun drive towing a class-A motorhome with a blown clutch slave cylinder.......
I wish it had been that simple. The ^%%@## plastic push rod eyelet broke into 3 pieces leaving it unattached to the clutch pedal pivot lever. Nothing to depress and activate the switch.
The new one I'll get tomorrow has the steel push rod.
Yeah, other than stopping/starting I have no trouble shifting without the clutch. had to do that numerous times, do it sometimes for fun.
My old truck is back in action! I bought a new clutch master cylinder about a week ago. I also ordered me a line coupling disconnect tool thinking I may need to disconnect the line. While looking for that tool I found reference to another tool, a Ford and OTC number. Searching for that I found a used one with two other Ford tools for cheap, the new OTC was $29.99. It looked like a tool for releasing the fingers inside the master that retain the push rod. Upon receiving them I tried it out on my "parts" master cyl, popped the rod out in merely seconds. Didn't work quite so well on the one in my truck as the push rod hole was a bit smaller. After revising the OTC design slightly I did get it to work on my truck. Even though I had the new part it became a challenge of sorts to repair it with just the rod, for now anyway. I still want to do a heim joint conversion but not the $40 one readily available. Linked are pics of the tool and the rods if interested.
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