HELP! clutch problem needs fixign ASAP
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 238
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HELP! clutch problem needs fixign ASAP
Truck is a 1994 ranger manual 5spd. 4.0L, 4wd.
I was driving- clutch pedal seemed to be 'weak'. I started to pull out i nthe road, pushed in the clutch, and shifted to first... stalled it... then it wouldn't start... Checked the clutch fluid- emptty. was full 2 weeks ago. Turns out its leaking down near the master cylinder if I am right. Right where the clutch pedal ends there is a cylinder- near the electric switch. the leak is about halfway up the cylinder and under the electric connection. This the master cylinder for the clutch line? If it is, the I was right.. how easy is it to fix? And is bleeding the clutch lines as bad as everyone says? Can I do it on my own? I think I will be able to get inside to work on it--- UP winters aren't too friendly to be working on a truck outside... I need the truck driving within a week to drive 325 miles home from school... I would like to do it on my own ansd save a ton of money.. thanks!!!
Directions for repairing and bleeding would be great!
I was driving- clutch pedal seemed to be 'weak'. I started to pull out i nthe road, pushed in the clutch, and shifted to first... stalled it... then it wouldn't start... Checked the clutch fluid- emptty. was full 2 weeks ago. Turns out its leaking down near the master cylinder if I am right. Right where the clutch pedal ends there is a cylinder- near the electric switch. the leak is about halfway up the cylinder and under the electric connection. This the master cylinder for the clutch line? If it is, the I was right.. how easy is it to fix? And is bleeding the clutch lines as bad as everyone says? Can I do it on my own? I think I will be able to get inside to work on it--- UP winters aren't too friendly to be working on a truck outside... I need the truck driving within a week to drive 325 miles home from school... I would like to do it on my own ansd save a ton of money.. thanks!!!
Directions for repairing and bleeding would be great!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 238
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ok, I have been working at it and I got the pushrod disconnected... but not out of the master cylinder. does the snap ring have to come off to accomplish this? also, the connection going to the tranny- how does the metal pin come out of the plastic adapter where the metal pipe connects ti the master cylinder? I don't want to break the pipe. I am done for the night- my flashlights are dead and my fingers are frozen.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,414
Likes: 22
From: Tucson USA
ok its a roll pin that hold the line in. You gotta push it out or tap it out with a punch anf hammer. Gently dont have to beat it hard. to remove the old one take the snap ring off pull it out. the new on will snap into position once you have the master installed. easiest way to bleed after install is to pull the snap ring and bleed it without pulling the piston all the way out. I have posted how to before its up in the tech section at the top of the page. be prepared to have the slave go out next as it will probably be weak if the master is out.
dont lose the O ring for the clutch line to master connection. just start the roll pin and use a set of channel locks to push in to lock the line in.
dont lose the O ring for the clutch line to master connection. just start the roll pin and use a set of channel locks to push in to lock the line in.
