92 van glow plug problems
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,569
Likes: 5,605
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
not exactly sure, something about the way they are mounted.
all i know is that the pickup cooler will not work in a van. not sure if the van cooler will work in a pickup though
all i know is that the pickup cooler will not work in a van. not sure if the van cooler will work in a pickup though
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2014
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hi guys, didnt want to start a discussion about the GPs. I was just confused why this would make such a difference. Saw some bad pictures here in the forum so i removed the autolites and I just ordered the ZD-9 and hopefully theyll be here soon.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,569
Likes: 5,605
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
no problem!!
and discussions are good if they can help another user from making the same mistake in the future.
we are here to help each other, so don't fret over it. and if you post in the wrong spot, the forum moderator will move the posts to their proper spot like he just did with this thread, because he is a real jerk and likes to mess with people.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,569
Likes: 5,605
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
looking back and reading your first post again, you said the engine is very hard to start even if it is plugged in. it sounds like once you get your glow plugs in you need to investigate the block heater too. check the power cord first, usually you just have to replace the plug end.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 2
From: western washington
when installing your new block heater power cord, use high heat dielectric grease, the kind you put on spark plugs, so connections do not corrode. check the connections on your glow system for corrosion to, and the clicking after the WTS lite go's out is normal.
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Since i am still waiting for the glowplugs i used the time this afternoon. I put the batteries on the charger and cleaned all contacts at the controller. I moved the ground connection of the controller from on top of the controllerhousing to below and put in a washer. i cleaned and polished everything there too.
As i removed the controller i found a puddle of diesel on top of the motor. it looks like there are some return fuel lines leaking which i think i should fix. Does anybody know which size of hoses i need there?
I also checked the blockheater. I unpluged the cable to measure it and found that one of the connector pins of the heaterelement is broken off and sticking in the connector. So i would need a new heater element. Have to remove the cooling fluid for replacing that right? Since it is not very very cold and winter will only last 4 more weeks for me I might not want to change it.
As i removed the controller i found a puddle of diesel on top of the motor. it looks like there are some return fuel lines leaking which i think i should fix. Does anybody know which size of hoses i need there?
I also checked the blockheater. I unpluged the cable to measure it and found that one of the connector pins of the heaterelement is broken off and sticking in the connector. So i would need a new heater element. Have to remove the cooling fluid for replacing that right? Since it is not very very cold and winter will only last 4 more weeks for me I might not want to change it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,072
Likes: 48
From: California
Which return lines? The ones that go back to the tank or the ones on the injectors?
Also, I lol'ed when I read the comment "Just move your Diesel filter head out of the way." Ha. Spoken like a true truck owner.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,072
Likes: 48
From: California
You ain't a diesel person, eh? No prob. Soon you'll wrench on your van so much, you'll never look back.
Here's a diagram of the IDI fuel system.
There are three kinds of fuel lines that could potentially leak on top of your motor. Metal injector lines, Injector return lines, and the tank return line. The tank return line meets at a "T" near your GP harness, and goes to your tank. The injector return lines are rubber and connect between your IP and injectors. The metal lines connect the IP to the injectors. I doubt the metal ones are leaking. You could have old rubber lines between the injectors, and they probably get stressed when you were reaching in for the GP's. You can get replacement return line kits (with seals, which could also be your leakage problem) for these IDI's on rockauto or summitracing (I can't remember where I got mine). I don't think your main return line (to the tank) is leaking on the engine, because you'd probably have leakage down the hose. So, if your injector-to-injector hoses are slick, then you probably have leaky seals and/or ripped/torn hoses.
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thanks for teh diagram!
i never really did much work at my cars, but since im travelling on a budget i try to do as much as i can by myself.
The main returnline is fine. Some of the injector return lines are moist, seems like they are ripped. the plastic connectors for the injector returnlines on top of the injectors are dry.
I have one lightly moist injector connection. I read in an other thread that i can just replace the olive sealing there.
i never really did much work at my cars, but since im travelling on a budget i try to do as much as i can by myself.
The main returnline is fine. Some of the injector return lines are moist, seems like they are ripped. the plastic connectors for the injector returnlines on top of the injectors are dry.
I have one lightly moist injector connection. I read in an other thread that i can just replace the olive sealing there.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,072
Likes: 48
From: California
thanks for teh diagram!
i never really did much work at my cars, but since im travelling on a budget i try to do as much as i can by myself.
The main returnline is fine. Some of the injector return lines are moist, seems like they are ripped. the plastic connectors for the injector returnlines on top of the injectors are dry.
I have one lightly moist injector connection. I read in an other thread that i can just replace the olive sealing there.
i never really did much work at my cars, but since im travelling on a budget i try to do as much as i can by myself.
The main returnline is fine. Some of the injector return lines are moist, seems like they are ripped. the plastic connectors for the injector returnlines on top of the injectors are dry.
I have one lightly moist injector connection. I read in an other thread that i can just replace the olive sealing there.
Yeah, replacing those lines is a really easy job, and it's one less thing to worry about. The seals aren't too bad too, so it doesn't hurt to have a full set on hand. Here's a kit to do whole job if you wanted to:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sm...ine-club-wagon
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