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I checked the fuel pressure at the start of this and it was right around 40 but I'll pick up a regulator tomorrow when I go to town. I just tried to start it after leaving for a couple hours and it won't even burble now I just don't understand why it is so damn random.
I checked the fuel pressure at the start of this and it was right around 40 but I'll pick up a regulator tomorrow when I go to town. I just tried to start it after leaving for a couple hours and it won't even burble now I just don't understand why it is so damn random.
You may have more than one issue. Did you check for spark?
put the timing light on and it has intermittent spark, the burbles are a miss because of no spark. during the first second or so of cranking when it doesn't fire right off it has no spark then sparks and fires up.
put the timing light on and it has intermittent spark, the burbles are a miss because of no spark. during the first second or so of cranking when it doesn't fire right off it has no spark then sparks and fires up.
I have a new coil, new pip, new tfi
Then you have a wiring issue. The connector to the coil has been a frequent root cause as well as the foil shield around the ignition circuit wires rubbing through and shorting the PIP signal. There is a TSB for the latter somewhere on the web.
Pull the SPOUT connector out and see if it will run on base timing. If it does then the TFI and PIP inside the distributor is good. IF it still runs bad then issue is with TFI/distributor.
If it runs ok on base timing, start checking wiring going to the ECU.
Does the engine rev up and clear out(about 2000 RPM) or still misses?
Thing is with the spout in it was still running at 10* timing, it held 10* the whole way up the rpm when it wasn't bouncing. What do you suggest to do with the connector? Just splice in another one? Is the aluminum tape reusable or will I need to find some new?
Thing is with the spout in it was still running at 10* timing, it held 10* the whole way up the rpm when it wasn't bouncing. What do you suggest to do with the connector? Just splice in another one? Is the aluminum tape reusable or will I need to find some new?
That is bad. Since you are not getting a SPOUT circuit error you very well may have a bad/dying PCM.
I went back through this thread and your opening statement has the timing info and the key symptom I did not catch....SPOUT out the truck runs. SPOUT in...it does not.
Before going with a replacement, pulls yours out then look for signs of leaking capacitors. Very common failure on these.
I had the same problem on my 93.Same as you,I threw parts at it.Finaly sent the ECU to Ecu Repair Now.Got it back in 4 days.Put it in,let fuel pump kick off and turned the key.Truck started right up.Been sitting for 6 months.Hasn't idled this smooth in years.Also check the ECU gasket at the firewall.Mine was leaking water in on the ECU.
Cheers Mark
How much did ECU repair now charge you to repair yours? Does anyone have a list of compatible computers? This is what I have but I know it's not from an 88 because its code is E9 it's a C9Z code
How much did ECU repair now charge you to repair yours? Does anyone have a list of compatible computers? This is what I have but I know it's not from an 88 because its code is E9 it's a C9Z code
Pretty much the 87 to 91 ECU's will plug and run just fine as long as you get the correct # of cylinder(6 or 8) and transmission(manual or Non E4OD automatic) ECU.
I am currently using a 92 engine bay harness in my 89 F250. I had to use the AOD instead of the E4OD due to no speedo gear in the E4OD. The 92 ECU did run the engine fine but had the check engine light on due to missing E4OD. I put a 88 or 89(forgot) ECU for a C6 tranny in to rid the codes. I have a spare 87 ECU under the seat for just in case.
If you put in a I6 ecu in a V8 engine, it will run but not good and vise-versa. But in a pinch you can use the different cylinder ECU to get home like I had to once!
How much did ECU repair now charge you to repair yours? Does anyone have a list of compatible computers? This is what I have but I know it's not from an 88 because its code is E9 it's a C9Z code
RLA2005, An exhaust leak upstream of the O2 sensor caught my eye. My air pump seized and I disconnected the line to it from the exhaust. Now I am having extreme richness problems. It was disconnected for 1.5 years before any problems though. Can this make it that I can't push on the pedal? I have to just touch the pedal or the engine is gone, then right back smooth again as soon as I let off.
What is too much fuel pressure on a 4.9?
Grant650 new thread perhaps? Anyway, get your exhaust hooked up right check your ignition stuff like the coil, pip, tfi and maybe your computer. I don't know if that symptom is exclusive to the computer but I had trouble with my bronco dying if I didn't very gently ease into the throttle. That cleared up for the most part after replacing the coil, pip and tfi.
As for me, I decided to order a reman from rockauto because it's a bit cheaper but mainly it will be faster, I'll have it tomorrow.
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