302 being stubborn
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2013
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302 being stubborn
So those of you who have followed my Bronco and the transmission and motor problems I've had are somewhat familiar with what I've got going on. I just overhauled my AOD trans and got it buttoned up and in the truck and then the 302 wouldn't run. I cleaned out the fuel tank and put in a new in-tank pump, wouldn't run. Bought a new distributor, would run for a minute if that then die consistently. Bought a new coil, same thing. Rebuilt the distributor with Borg Warner pip and Motorcraft TFI, somewhat smoother but wont run still.
I watched it with the timing light once I got it timed to 10* and plugged the spout in, it will burble but not start and the timing is bouncing around from about 5 to 20*. Is this the computer? I'm wary of dropping another 100+ bucks on parts (I'm 18 so I assure you, it's a lot), Could there be something else in the ignition system I'm missing?
I watched it with the timing light once I got it timed to 10* and plugged the spout in, it will burble but not start and the timing is bouncing around from about 5 to 20*. Is this the computer? I'm wary of dropping another 100+ bucks on parts (I'm 18 so I assure you, it's a lot), Could there be something else in the ignition system I'm missing?
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2015
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Dont need a code reader. Do the self test. Its really easy. Theres two of them. One with the engine off and one with it on.
Ford OBD Trouble Codes ?
Ford OBD Trouble Codes ?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2013
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Actually got a power probe and set up to test, my results were inconclusive. attached my jumper wire and put the probe on pin 4 and it had power already. I rehooked my jumper and put the probe on 4 and it flashed power. I take it this is a pretty good indicator of a bad computer?
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kentucky
Actually got a power probe and set up to test, my results were inconclusive. attached my jumper wire and put the probe on pin 4 and it had power already. I rehooked my jumper and put the probe on 4 and it flashed power. I take it this is a pretty good indicator of a bad computer?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2013
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Did the test with a test light. I got 6 pulses-7 pulses- 6 pulses-7 pulses then five single flashes that were at least 2 seconds apart.
67 is park circuit failure, probably correct as I've had to jump the starter solenoid to crank. past that it looks like a system pass.
67 is park circuit failure, probably correct as I've had to jump the starter solenoid to crank. past that it looks like a system pass.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2013
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The only supplier I can find is cardone, is this Cardone Remanufactured 78-4467 - Engine Control Computer | O'Reilly Auto Parts
acceptable or should I pursue a motorcraft option (if it exists)
acceptable or should I pursue a motorcraft option (if it exists)
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
Likes: 1,753
From: Kentucky
Code 67 indicates the Neutral Safety Switch is out of adjustment. The 5 "single flashes" were probably the separator flash and Code 11 for System Pass in the Continuous (CM) memory display. IMHO you do NOT have a bad computer (PCM).
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2013
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Do you have any suggestions as to why it still won't stay running? I'm out of ideas, the motor ran before I pulled the transmission I figured maybe the computer baked while it was parked out in the sun. Thanks for replying
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2013
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Here's my carbon plug. Fired it up today and it would actually idle by itself for a while. I got it to rev up to about 4 grand with some popping. I sprayed some starting fluid in while idling and it pulls the motor down not revs it up. Injectors?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kentucky
While I do not like using the spray method to find vacuum leaks you have found something affected by the presence of a combustible liquid.
Common causes of a rich condition are a leaking diaphragm in the Fuel Pressure Regulator, a faulty FPR (too much pressure),an exhaust leak near the O2 sensor or any place upstream of it, leaking injectors and a host of others.
I would start with the FPR.
Common causes of a rich condition are a leaking diaphragm in the Fuel Pressure Regulator, a faulty FPR (too much pressure),an exhaust leak near the O2 sensor or any place upstream of it, leaking injectors and a host of others.
I would start with the FPR.