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Put the new computer in and it fired right up, got it to rev well up to 4000-4500. But it still idles choppy and wants to stumble when the throttle is moved. When I put the spout in the timing doesn't change at idle and at WOT it retards (moves left as looking at the marker) back to about 20-25*. I'll see if I can get it up to temp and pull codes tomorrow.
Got it running for a few solid minutes, the idle started at about 900rpm and settled down to a choppy 500-600rpm. I didn't have a test light handy to pull codes but check engine light was off while running. I pulled the vacuum and electrical connection off of the EGR and no change. I went to move the throttle and as soon as it moved it shut off just like somebody turned the key and wouldn't start again.
The symptoms you describe sound like a bad PCM. Well more like someone else's problem that you inherited. Not saying that is the case, but a well running engine doesn't do that with a PCM that is suppose to work.
If you cannot pull or retrieve codes, at the most an error of some sort, something in the PCM isn't functioning correctly.
Edit: did you open the PCM prior to installing to ensure it looked electrically ok?
I didn't touch it the PCM, I figured the company would frown upon that if I did need to return it. And as a general rule I like to think that a company that charges $100 for a part would be able to put out a product that will work.
I didn't touch it the PCM, I figured the company would frown upon that if I did need to return it. And as a general rule I like to think that a company that charges $100 for a part would be able to put out a product that will work.
pull out the pcm and clean it with alcohol. replace the remaining basic ignition parts with new parts. plugs, plug wires, coil etc. clean or replace the air filter. put all these new parts in with the computer out of the bronco air drying from the alcohol cleaning to assure the computer resets properly. if your tank is clean, I would guess that refreshing the ignition and cleaning the computer properly will fix your issue. I had a similar problem with the 331 in my mustang recently. Don't be afraid to take the computer apart and look for dust inside, just don't mess with any components. do a visual inspection and clean the crap out of any connections with alcohol. If you still have an issue with the truck after that, do a compression test. low compression will cause excessive blow by gunking up your plugs.
I couldn't get it to run today. Tried to pull codes KOEO and I had light at pin 4 and plugged in the jumper to pin 2 and had nothing. Now that I'm writing it maybe I wasn't patient enough but I doubt it.
Pulled the ECM and didn't see anything except there was some scuffing in the rubbery coating around one of the capacitors. Could this be the TPS? To be honest I'm giving it about another month and I'm pulling all the bull**** off and going carb. I've owned this truck for 5 years and have yet to drive it, just rebuilt the trans and can't even tell if I did it right because of the motor.
Removed the second catalytic converter and gutted the first. Reinstalled the ECM. fires up and runs rough if the throttle is held open, with a really meaty backfire every now and then, popping pretty consistently. Pulled codes and got these flashes 67-67-1-63-29-63-29 where - is a long pause. So Neutral circuit (67), Vehicle speed sensor (29) this has me worried because I have no VSS and possibly got the wrong ECM, and Throttle Position Sensor (63) cool cause I bought one just for ****s and giggles.
Edit: forgot to through out that my timing is stuck right about 10* everywhere but idle, at or close to idle it gets pretty jittery jumping around. Hopefully that's the TPS, but probably not.
The PCM uses Speed input even for trucks with manual transmissions. Not 100% sure what it does with it but it is a consistent feedback signal across all models. Code 67 can also be generated if you have the A/C or Defrost on while running the KOEO tests.
Code 63 is self explanatory and can be verified with a meter.
As far as the timing remaining locked at 10 is a bit baffling. There is a Code for open SPOUT circuit, but it has never popped up before correct?
No codes regarding spout, could the computer not knowing an acceptable throttle position be causing that? I didn't have AC or defrost on because it drains batteries fairly quickly.
Put the new TPS on and it made a big difference, very greasy and black in the intake though. It started up beautifully revved it up, sounded great, let off throttle and it died. It was pretty hard to start the second time, cranked a little while and had to hold it wide open for it to catch. It was also hard to get it to idle, had to very gently ease off the throttle. The timing is still right about 5-10* when revving and idling.
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