Replace Rotors too?
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Joined: Feb 2015
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Replace Rotors too?
My 08 F350 is coming up for a brake pad change soon. (Going to use motorcraft SD pads) My question is: am I smart to replace those too even if they still meet the spec for minimum thickness? My shop manual says the minimum thickness (I'm assuming for the OEM rotors) is 36.4mm. Pads and rotors are all approaching 100k miles.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,372
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From: West Cornwall, CT
When I did brakes on my '06, the rotors got replaced at the same time. The original rotors were not totally worn out, but just about every surface that did not contact brake pads was heavily rusted.
If you got 100K from original pads and rotors, I'd try to duplicate that performance with a full replacement.
Lou Braun
If you got 100K from original pads and rotors, I'd try to duplicate that performance with a full replacement.
Lou Braun
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,748
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From: Tallassee, ALabama
On the old 1996 F350 CCLB, it had over 200,000 miles on it and still had original rotors when I sold it a few years ago. Brake pads were on the 3rd set. If rotors are not warped nor cracks and meet minimum thickness, I would not replace them.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Bonita Springs FL
Same here. There's no reason to replace them as long as they are still serviceable.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,825
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From: Land of Taxes
If the rotors are ok why not just do pads. Have the OEMs gently resurfaced. Nothing like the factory rotors. The next set will be chineasium junk. At least hang on to the old rotors unless your from the rust belt in which case they are likely shot due to rot?
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 16,269
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From: Odessa, Delaware
Not to hijack this thread but how do I know if I have OEM rotors on my truck? I bought my truck used with 60K miles. I know some of these trucks had issues with brake calipers hanging up so I don't know if any brake work was done prior to me buying the truck.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Tallassee, ALabama
All probability at 60k, they are original rotors. No guaranty. Rotors wear but do not wear excessively unless someone was hauling heavy loads in a stop and go arena. One of the main reasons rotors are replace is not from wear but the pads are worn out and groove the rotors from the rivets.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: CT
In my opinion, even slightly grooved rotors are OK, new pads will wear in to accommodate. I would replace original rotors only if they are severely scarved, rusted or warped from overheating and gives pulsation in break pedal . Can't beat originals.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
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From: Bonita Springs FL
Thirded. You'll never get a smooth pedal with Chinese rotors.
To each their own, but I wouldn't use grooved rotors. You can always meet or beat OEM quality. It's not like they don't make quality parts; you just don't find them at that irish place or 'zone.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,800
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From: Southern Colorado
I would hit the rotors with an aggressive Scotchbrite pad (or 60 grit sandpaper) to remove any shine/glaze appearance from your rotors, before installing new pads.
I have used cheap Chinese-made rotors on many vehicles with no ill effect. $43 beats $180 per side and many dealer (and name-brand - Wagner) rotors are Chinese-made anyway. YMMV.
I have used cheap Chinese-made rotors on many vehicles with no ill effect. $43 beats $180 per side and many dealer (and name-brand - Wagner) rotors are Chinese-made anyway. YMMV.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,825
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From: Land of Taxes
When I do a brake job and I suspect OEM rotors I try not to replace them until they are totally shot or creating a braking problem due to warp or glaze. If in doubt I will hang on to OEMs have them surfaced and reinstall them the next pad replacement or if the chineasium crap craps out prematurely which they usually do.
Im looking for some higher end USA made rotors for mine now. As the OEMs will need replacement in another 10-20K
I have a 60s muscle car with original rotors on it. Had the glazing knocked off them once about 5 years ago. Thats a 40+ year old rotor still going strong. Common then not common now.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 16,269
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From: Odessa, Delaware
Good question. Ill have to look at mine on next pin and slider lube schedule as I know these are OEM. I just figured that the OP'er knew his were OEM. Im not sure there is any identifying markings. The OEMs may have a Ford PN?
When I do a brake job and I suspect OEM rotors I try not to replace them until they are totally shot or creating a braking problem due to warp or glaze. If in doubt I will hang on to OEMs have them surfaced and reinstall them the next pad replacement or if the chineasium crap craps out prematurely which they usually do.
Im looking for some higher end USA made rotors for mine now. As the OEMs will need replacement in another 10-20K
I have a 60s muscle car with original rotors on it. Had the glazing knocked off them once about 5 years ago. Thats a 40+ year old rotor still going strong. Common then not common now.
When I do a brake job and I suspect OEM rotors I try not to replace them until they are totally shot or creating a braking problem due to warp or glaze. If in doubt I will hang on to OEMs have them surfaced and reinstall them the next pad replacement or if the chineasium crap craps out prematurely which they usually do.
Im looking for some higher end USA made rotors for mine now. As the OEMs will need replacement in another 10-20K
I have a 60s muscle car with original rotors on it. Had the glazing knocked off them once about 5 years ago. Thats a 40+ year old rotor still going strong. Common then not common now.
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