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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 01:43 AM
  #31  
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If the Floats aren't lifting then the Carb would Flood not be empty.

I would wager that your Float Level is wrong and holding the Needle/Seat shut while empty.

I rebuilt the 1bbl on my 68 Dodge A108 van and the diagram showed parts/pieces/measurements for 8 different Series of that Carb, it was a complete Pain!
 
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Old Apr 3, 2015 | 09:32 AM
  #32  
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Well a little update. I got the carb on, all new rubber line, cleaned out the hard lines and have been working on the gas tank. Hooked the truck up to a gas can and she runs great. Got the carb tuned in pretty well. Finished the spark plugs and found 2 that were closed, guess I know where that miss was coming from.

Using electrolysis in gas tank, seams to be doing something. Will do final cleaning this weekend and get it coated.

Went to get title transferred and found out the guy hadn't renew plates. That cost me more than title transfer and registration and tax. Also, due to its GVWR I had to get commercial insurance for it. That wasn't a biggy as I already have commercial insurance policy so just added it on.

Went to HArbor Freight yesterday and picked up a set of cab clearance lights for $12. Nothing fancy obviously but should look better than all the missing and broken lenses on there now. More to come.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2015 | 11:38 AM
  #33  
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I went through the commercial insurance hassle here in Alberta, first idiot wanted $5290 a year even though I showed him 27 years of accident and ticket free commercial insurance and class 3A liscence. Current provider wrote me up for $1140 a year, still steep but this is drunk cowboy in a 1 ton dually territory so someone has to pay for that 'right' LOL.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2015 | 11:45 AM
  #34  
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Actually have no idea what it's gonna cost yet. But if it is more than my everyday work truck, I am putting a phone number on it and making some damn money with it.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2015 | 11:54 AM
  #35  
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Dang guys, insurance here is 380$ a year...
 
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Old Apr 3, 2015 | 12:06 PM
  #36  
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But see it is a 6 ton license so has to be commercial insurance, cost much much more.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 09:16 AM
  #37  
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Getting rust out of a tank is a pain. The way I would suggest doing it is to wash interior with some good detergent with small chain. Do not use nuts and bolts and small things, there is a lip at the filler neck and makes it hard to get them out. Shake the hell out of it and get as much of the scale out this way as you can. Rinse out and then if you want, use the electrolysis to remove the surface rust. It will not get the scale stuff, well maybe eventually but I ran out of patience.

I used Red Kote for the tank liner. Need to use 2 cans for a tank, which I didn't. It doesn't actually take 2 cans to seal it, but you need the extra liquid to get everything covered. Then you can dump out the excess and reuse if you seal it up. It has very bad fumes, in fact strongest I think I have ever experienced. And a flash point that is way low.

Got it all put back together. Some how the six gas cans of gas I took out of the truck was reduced to one. Damn teenagers.

Went to put on the new marker light I got. My new ones are tear drops and the old ones I think they cal square. They have the mounting holes on the sides of the lights. I started looking around and found that original ford ones are $34 each for just the lenses and base. Wasn't really digging that price. So I took one of the old ones off to see if i could use the ones I got. That is when i noticed it didn't say Ford on it. It was made by a company called Truck Lite and they are still around and still make the lights. Found them online and order them. Cost $39 for all 5 including shipping and these have pigtail light sockets and bulbs. I have one corner light to fix but it is just a broken wire.

Oh yeah, The gasket for the sending unit shrunk, alot. Ended up going to town and getting a variety pack of gasket material. Seems I always need some and never have bought it before. Worked great and a whole pack was only a couple of bucks more than a new sender gasket would of cost without shipping.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 05:21 PM
  #38  
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Sure glad I've never had to clean a tank, found it easier to replace any I didn't like with a newer piece from a parts truck. Always drain the old tank and that becomes washing gas, remove hardware if possible, fill it with water to over flowing, then cut in half with sawzall, gets recycled after that. l'm really starting to like these resin tanks, just need to make a guard plate/box, put in a piece of old tire for cushion and attach a strap across the top, getting pretty good at it. Theres a transmission shop a block away and when they cleaned their shop last year they threw out a bunch of parts bags from trany rebuilds, wound up with lots of gasket material, template hard board and about a 1000 O rings, seals, C clips, lock rings and etc, all of it new.
Sell the kids and get 2 cats, when you need a hand, rent-a-kid comes in handy
 
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 06:18 PM
  #39  
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I have had good luck cleaning my tanks with a small length of chain.. It sucks shaking it around like a buffoon but it surely works
 
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