Sometimes progress has to be measured in Inches instead of Miles but it's still progress.

Keep at it and the list of To-Do's will get shorter fast.

 

Nice dump truck, sure miss not having my 78 but then again the metal from the box is sure coming in handy. Your rust doesn't appear to be that bad, Katy's was worse in some areas. Ford had a lot of different rads for these trucks and its a pita. Passenger side xhaust manifolds always seem to crack on the dentside f350 dually. Good welding project for the son, just get an old piece of 16 and 18 gauge metal and tell him to make his own patch panels, they're not that hard to do. Check Katy p loses her box last page and you'll see some patches that I made. Get er done and watch your popularity with the neighbours grow, charge em at least $45 an hour 2 1/2 hour min.

 

Yeah, I think it will pay for itself pretty quick, and repairs. I think I will be looking for a new cab, there are some problems not shown in pictures. Ounce I get it home I will take more pictures of the really bad stuff. If you still have it around, could you get pics of the box controls? There is no interior control for the box, and the lever outside rests in the up position. Since I will be spreading gravel as it's first major task, I want to be able to control it from the cab. From what I have seen it was just a cable for most of these into the cab.

Will be heading up tonight to finish putting it back together and hopefully driving it home.

 

2 cables, 1red, 1black and a metal bracket on driverside of trany hump. Will go through my pics to see what I can show you. Pretty simple setup, cant use word **** without it getting censored.

 

Much appreciated. I haven't even gotten under it to look at the pump linkages and stuff yet. Maybe this weekend.

 

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The long cable goes to here

Your fill cap is held on by a philips, there is a plastic sleeve under the cap, remove it and you will see the cap holder and vent. This is aluminum and should unscrew pretty easy, if it doesnt use brake fluid to get rid of corrosion NOT WD40 it breaks down your fluid. make sure you have a 4x4 between the box rails and subframe rails. with box raised the reservoir should be half full. I used a measure tape. I think it was 2.5" to half way. Before adding hydraulic fluid look inside with a flash light to see if there is any water in fluid. the reservoir holds 5 gallons of fluid. If there is water it usually beads up, use a sponge paint roller to try and soak it up, be patient it works. the long handled metal roller works best.

Theres your controls and mount, if you dont have one I'll take a new set of pics and show you the measures, it would be easy to make. Long cable to flow control, short cable to PTO. Bottom left is pump, obviously. there are zirk fittings on the pto to pump shaft, if your truck sat as long as I think then wash you universals with used motor oil and replace zirks. the grease in the universals have turned to tar thanks to dirt clean them or at least loosen them up a bit, thats why we use old motor oil.
If you have a wood subfloor under your box, great, you can carry riv rap and not dent your floor between the ribs, if not SoL on that idea. It looked like you have a swing gate, if so get a pair of foot long chains that you can use to control how far open your tailgate swings, can save your helper/son a lot of raking.
FORMULA 1 cubic yard = 81 sq ft at 4" thick, 4" thick is standard measure for loam, crushed gravel or washed stone or for concrete pads as in patio, basket ball, drive way for cars or light trucks. Make edges of driveway or RV pad 6" deep and 15" wide. If you use a tarp to keep your tailgate from leaking you can haul up to 1.5 yards of concrete if you get the plant to slum it at 90, cover load with rest of tarp, only takes a 2x4 to hold down tarp. I know, WAY to much info. hope it helps can take more pics as these were in computer and I've got to keep my hands clean today and it's -9c.

 

Thanks Privateer, great info. Got under it and looked at everything some and found a nice lever on the pump with many angles and several homes. Also a cross member close by so I think a cable should work out well.

Finally got her home, there were some problems but it is home. There was a gash in the hole for the freeze plug, and I couldn't get it to seal completely. Then I noticed the opposite side one was leaking also. There was white smoke coming from the passenger side exhaust, so I believe it has a blown head gasket. Think there will be a mild engine rebuild in the future. Then there is the backfiring issue. Since I never noticed the 4 barrel kicking in, gonna start with a carb rebuild. Also need to install gauges so I can see what's going on. It was getting pretty cold inside the cab, thought there was a huge hole somewhere, then at a stop I looked and the boy had kicked the vent opened. After closing that it was pretty bearable inside. More pictures.

Slave boy working.


copper silicone on exhaust manifold and head surfaces, they were slightly pitted.


back together




she is cracked on both sides at this seam, think I need a new windshield gasket?


cab mounts are so shot, when we went to put it back together i couldn't get the bottom bolt on the fender.

 

Don't you just love it when a PO has decided that they don't need those evil rubber fender liners, looks like thats the main reason your mounts are as rotted as they are. My 75 camper special had the same customization, don't make it go faster or look prettier but sure rotted the hell out of my front end. Your kinda in luck, I,m fixin the passenger floor, (bladder control issue) cab mount and replacing front sheet metal and rad support this week when the weather decides to cooperate, probably thursday on. Will post pics on one or both of my active threads. That cab mount repair isn't as scarry as it appears and floor repairs can be made real easy and would be a good training job for the son. A, get him to check the ads for someone local who wants a cab hauled away. give him a sawzall, grinder and extension cord and tell him and his buddy to go fetch, may cost you a bag of beer. B Tell him to be carefull how he cuts it up as thats his replacement panels. Your front end is sitting low, need springs. If you want I'll measure the compressed hieght and diameter of my front springs 89 f350, pretty sure they will work for you. The 89 has the ball joint suspension but it also has the sway bar that these trucks need. The sway bar attaches to the same bolt you need to remove to get the spring out. Changing the springs and putting in the sway bar makes one of those day/night differences. From Ford to Ferrari difference in the front end. Cube van front end suspension has some parts you can snag if they're 7th & 8th generation, look for one that has a big overhang on the rear and a small block. These ones usually arent as worn as short box with a 460 are. Too bad about the drag link and tie rod ends, thats $400 in parts but you can put it in yourself if you measure from zirk to zirk before you remove the old ones, you'll only havs to check your toe in/out after wards and that will be a real small adjustment. Check your hanger/ center bearing and that pinion seal when you look at your u joints. Have fun with the truck and buy some crazy glue and bandaids for the sons fingers.

 

I think a lot of the problems with the rot, is from those mud flaps, as it stops right at the flap. I have new floor pans, was for another truck but as it is now a parts truck I will use them on this. Will have to order cab mounts. Will just simply weld on cover up pieces in some spots as they are hidden and I don't care, not going to be a show truck.

Front springs have air bags in them but I think they were put in when the truck was new, and are rotted. Might replace them, not sure yet.

Ok, now for the good stuff. How much were you able to haul comfortably? And how much did you haul, uncomfortably?

 

Cant find a good pic of my old truck box, deleted some from the bucket that were lost on an old hard drive. Box was 8' x 12', steel floor but had 1" plywood first 4' behind the cab and 2"x16" plank last 8'. We're supposed to max out at about 2.5 yards 3/4" crushed rock but the loaders have 3 yd buckets so 3 yds is your safe load. I had a pair of 10 ton rams so if I had a flat route to site I was known put 4.5 yds in the box to save me the second trip. Had to get in back with the shovel and level my load before I left the pit. Was 1/2" below sidewalls and gave me a 3-4" bread hump in the middle. The biggest concern is to keep the grade in your dump zone front to rear or vice versa, thats why you make sure your reservoir is half full when your box is raised. The side to side grade is what flips trucks, and twists your rams. Empty my truck was 7910 lbs. At 4.5 yds hills are going to slow you down to 2nd gear, (400 4spd). beware of mot/dot as they'll scale you in the spring and make sure your front tires are matching, first thing they notice is unmatched tires and the inspection is on if they don't like what they see.

I had 3 spots of light surface rust on cab, floor boards are mint, truck was parked and tarped december to aprill and not needed on rainy days, retired at 115,121 kilometers. He's getting a regular truck box, has a 89 f350 dually frame, is getting F450 rear axle and suspension. The cab gets stretched above the box 38" and roof line gets raised 18 to 24". Box gets set up with hidden tires, tool & equipment boxes and a 5th wheel hitch. Then the cats (reason for cab mods) and me are going on tour.

 

Cool truck...sorry about the wife's back, mine has had 2 surgeries and 2 years later still isn't right.

 

So, the progress. I pulled the carb to rebuild it. Got it torn apart and soaking in some parts cleaner. Went to ever auto parts store in 30 miles, no one had a way of getting a carb kit from the tag on the carb. It is an original ford holley 4 barrel and from my reading is a little different than a normal 4160. I did find a guy at a ford dealership that was a holley guy and said he would make me a kit. I did a little more research and found a part number and went to parts store with that. Got the kit, it was in stock. It has been cold around here and carb was soaking in the unheated garage, so I left it till it got nicer. Tried several times over the last week to get started on it, but it wasn't till yesterday that I got the chance. Spent several hours working on it, one because I have never rebuilt a holley, and 2 carb illustration has every possible part for any 4150/4160 on it. This is not helpful at all. Pretty sure I lost a small bag of parts, as I was sure there was new eclips and orings in the kit. Got it all together though and set adjusted.

Put it on the truck and decided after talking to a few mechanics that i sould check the fuel filter. It is the kind on the fuel pump. Pull it off and there is about a quarter of an inch of rusty particles caked to the bottom of the bowl. Started spraying the element with crb cleaner and realized I needed to go get a new one. This is a new fuel pump so all of this has accumulated since I got it.

Get new element and a spare, get it all ready and try firing it up. She fires and runs but kind of ruff and keeps dieing. Finally realize I left the fuel mixture screws turned in. Go grab my sheet and set them to previous setting, 1 3/4 turns out. It will only fire with full choke and then dies, like it is running out of fuel. Pull fuel line, have boy crank it,( I know, not the smartest thing in the world) and it seams to have a good amount of fuel pressure. So I pull fuel level ports off and can tell bowls aren't filling. I back both float adjustments out all the way and I never see them fill up.

SO, I didn't feel like pulling fuel filter again. I think it is clogged again, or something is so I believe next course of action is to clean the hole fuel system. All of my trucks but one was sitting for years, and I never had this much problem with them, a few tanks of gas and several fuel filters and its all good. Never had one clog up like this in a few minutes. I normally put a glass fuel filter inline at the carb so I can see what is going on, but this is hard piped all the way to the carb. Don't want to change that, as I like to keep things factory as much as possible.

Think I will clean out tank with apple cider vinegar and nuts and bolts. Though about using electrolysis, or what ever it is called, but concerned about the scrap piece touching the sides and making big sparks. I don't know. can't really afford a new tank at $300 plus shipping from DC.

If you have ideas, let me know.

Now for the good things. Got all the turn signals working, needed new sockets up front, new bulbs and had a blown fuse. Got the fuel gauge working. Turned out that the float was completely gone. Found a piece of plastic on the rod and that was all. Some of the dash lights didn't work, so pulled it and found a very corroded printed circuit and crumbling housing. Had the wife pull it apart and clean all the contact points. She used a commercial CLR type product and it made them shine. She then cleaned the dirt off the gauges and tore apart the cluster out of my parts truck. It had a different circuit so had to swap everything. Only mod i need to do is make a hole for a high beam light. The one in the dump truck is in the speedo, but the housing had it as one of the indicator lights. Didn't mess with it yet, but will. Got started on aftermarket gauges. After fishing the sender for the temp gauge, realized I hadn't run it through the bracket, so had to do it again. Only place I have found for the oil pressure gauge is in place of the old sender. That is mounted into a bracket for the oil filter, and is not easily accessible. Would of liked to of left olde gauges and light working but not having luck doing that, had to put temp in old temp sender location as I couldn't get any plugs out to put it any where else.

That's it for now.

 

If your getting fuel pressure up to the carb your fuel line from the tank to the pump should be good.

 

Well, got a problem some where. Any pressure should really be enough for it to idle, but it doesn't. There is no filter between pump and carb, only restriction spot is float needle, and it is brand new. Fuel tank is in the cab, so only about 2 ft of rubber line to change, will blow out the hard lines, empty tank and pull it to clean. When we first drained the tank of the bad gas, all we did was pull the bowl on the fuel pump and it siphoned out. tried that this time and no go. might have a chunk of something clogging the feed line in tank causing intermittent problems, or restricted fuel flow. Of course my little electric fuel pump decided to not work today either or I would be about ready to pull tank.

After reading your posts, sound like we have about the same luck sometimes.

 

Yeah, 1 step forwards comes with 1 week backwards sometimes. This retirement can be a real pita, sure miss the days when all I had to do was strip and gut a hotel/motel floor in 14 hrs, warehouse during the day and refurbish it that night in 14 hrs. 40 hour days are a breeze compared to this uncomplicated life sometimes. LOL Double check the wire clip on your floats and maybe prime the carb by putting fuel down your vent tubes. Or maybe your onto it by finding that clog in the line. These are low pressure fuel systems but they are sensitive to any kind of blockage. Wouldn't surprise me if you weren't getting enough pressure/volume to lift the floats especially as you have 2 floats to lift. Deciding if I should reply to an email response I got from a parts ad I responded to, the mindless idiot answered a question I never asked that had nothing to do with the parts. Nah, I'll just put him in the "to dumb for my good" file. Snowy, rainy crappy muddy day, sure am glad I got company coming up from Elmonte tonite, my psych needs the break and the house needed cleaning anyhow.