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And here I am trying to figure out a way to put the mini starter in the original starter casing... I've got a bad starter laying around that would be a perfect candidate for that.. I'm probably better off just re-brushing it as planned. Geez I wish you guys wouldn't give me ideas like this sometimes!
The mini's work completely differently, sorry! They work like a GM starter, with the solenoid pushing the bendix into the flywheel from the front, instead of pulling it in from the back, so no more starter hang-ups. The mini's also weigh 1/3 or less of the original starters, that starts to add up. With the mini, alternator, and various aluminum bits, I've taken more than 60 lbs off my engine.
The mini's work completely differently, sorry! They work like a GM starter, with the solenoid pushing the bendix into the flywheel from the front, instead of pulling it in from the back, so no more starter hang-ups. The mini's also weigh 1/3 or less of the original starters, that starts to add up. With the mini, alternator, and various aluminum bits, I've taken more than 60 lbs off my engine.
I was thinking of taking just the outer casing and putting the entire new starter on the inside of that, but then realized the mini probably isn't small enough.
My dad said on cold nights, they'd throw a blanket over the engine and put a drop light under it to keep the engine & oil warm enough to start...and they'd sometimes take the battery inside.
I struggled with 6V batteries for years insisting that it was good enough then. I finally converted to 12V and won't go back on any of my cars. I leave them 6V until the first issue, then they get 12V. It's a simple, easy swap (generally). And believe me, if the OEM thought 6V was superior or saved a nickel, we'd still have 6V cars....there's a reason we don't.
Lots of talk in recent years of increased voltages for new cars and trucks. The "12 volt" system is barely adequate for all the accessories and components today. 36 or 48 etc. Not a peep about it lately though.
The stock trucks had headlights, parking lights (which were not on when the headlights were), one tail light, maybe turn signals, optional electric wipers, optional heater, optional radio. Not a lot of things drawing electricity. Bigger trucks that had running lights and other things that used electricity could order a generator with a higher output.
Now a larger Genny would not help a truck start faster but it would keep the 6 volt battery charged better.
I'm not sure if anyone is looking at this thread anymore, but here is an update on the situation. I broke down and purchased a new 6 volt battery wow what a difference. With the old battery the truck would barely turn over and wouldn't take a charge. With the new battery there is no starting issues, I reach in hit the throttle twice with my hand, turn the key and hit the button. Fires right up, even in the cold mornings. The only issue I have is I am not sure it is charging. I have driven the truck a few times with the lights on and heater going. Each time I park it I check the battery voltage and it is above 6 volts. Its an analog meter so it is hard to read the gauge. Time will tell I guess.
I'm not sure if anyone is looking at this thread anymore, but here is an update on the situation. I broke down and purchased a new 6 volt battery wow what a difference. With the old battery the truck would barely turn over and wouldn't take a charge. With the new battery there is no starting issues, I reach in hit the throttle twice with my hand, turn the key and hit the button. Fires right up, even in the cold mornings. The only issue I have is I am not sure it is charging. I have driven the truck a few times with the lights on and heater going. Each time I park it I check the battery voltage and it is above 6 volts. Its an analog meter so it is hard to read the gauge. Time will tell I guess.
If you've been driving with the lights on and check the battery immediately after shutting it off, I'd say your battery is charging.
Why not start the engine, set the throttle at high idle and check the voltage? If the generator is charging the battery, you should be getting over 7 volts.
I have done that a couple times and have never gotten a reading above 6.3 volts. I am wondering if the generator is wearing out and putting out a little over 6 volts. I have never had 7 volts at the battery at high idle. I'm not sure what to check next.
Thank you very much for the schematic. It is nice to see it drawn up like this. I have ran across this procedure a few times as a written description but was a little leery of trying it. If the weather improves I will try this.
If you don't have an ammeter capable of those currents, it seems to me that if you disconnect the F and A terminals at the regulator, and put the A wire over onto the B terminal of the regulator, then jumper the F to A at the generator, you can use the dash ammeter. You don't want to do any of this too long, a minute at most.
I've never done this, so proceed with caution! Better to find an ammeter.
PS you really need to get a manual if you want to work on your truck. They are only $20 - $30.
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