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I have been wanting to do a 1/2 ton diesel swap for a while and in the next month or two I am going to start. With it getting close I have been thinking about it more and more; before I had 3 engines in mind. I was thinking about a 7.3 PSD, 12v or 4bt cummins. Now, I may do an IDI! They are all mechanical, which is very appealing to me. They can also be found very cheap. In upstate NY, there are plenty of old fords with an IDI and zf5 (swap will be manual) that are rotted out and are being sold for under a grand.
Most people over look them in trucks, and when it comes to a swap it's the last thing on anybodies mind. So why not? Being a half ton a PSD or 12v would probably have to much power anyway; those engines would probably brake axles, differentials, and the small brakes probably wouldn't stop it. I don't need to tow with it, I have a '99 F450 for that. This would be a daily driver, project, and fun truck.
What do you guys think? Would a 6.9 or 7.3 be better? I would probably put a turbo on it, and the 7.3 has bigger head studs, but also the cavitation problem. I could find a 7.3 with factory turbo, but what fun is that?
How much electrical stuff do they really have? From my understanding it isn't much at all. Maybe an IDI isn't good enough for a swap for most people, but I would enjoy the simplicity of the engine over the other choices, and plus I have never heard of anybody ever even talk about an IDI swap, there are lots of fummins driving around and I'm sure some 1/2 ton 7.3 PDS as well.
Are you looking to put it into an F150? I think your biggest problem would be weight, you'd probably have to get custom coil springs to support a diesel in a F150.
A bone stock NA IDI make more power than a a stock 12v. Slap a $400 turbo kit on there and youre right with or better than a stock PSD.
Its been done definately, half ton swaps that is. Keep in mind that a 302 weighs roughly 500, M block or 335 series around 600 and a big block / 385 series around 720. IDI weighs in at 1100 NA 1200 turbo. I am an IDI diehard, but for a half ton i still would lean toward 4bt or a little perkins or something due to weight and fitment.
What year of vehicle are you looking to drop this into? No matter what way you go i would strongly suggest something with a solid front end, aka D44 that would be in a dentside F150, and definately dont skimp and buy cheap balljoints.
Hi. I have an'83 bullnose f100 with 6.9_ç6 ,3.55. Has the independent front end, not sure of the coils under it but ride is ok and clearance just so. I would have to lift it for taller tyres than 31''. Fun truck. Finishing rust work at back rear of cab just now, c6 was set up for gas, the po that changed out the 4.1 bought a create rebuild 6.9 and maybe specs for the trans should have been thought about so that will be better now.
I am in the navy and there is a 1983 f150 with straight 6 for sale. I didn't know it was for sale until today when I met the owner. We talked a lot, we had to work together this morning. I have always looked at the truck and loved it, thought it was a beautiful truck. It is a regular cab and stepside bed with a straight 6 and 4 speed. The only problem is it is 2wd and I really want a 4x4. How hard is it to put a Dana 44 in the front? The transfer case wouldn't be a problem, I would just put one in with the tranny and engine swap.
4x4 is kinda involved, but not impossible, esspecially if you keep the coils. Get a D44HP out of a late 70s dent. Going to need the axle, all the steering, some 4" coils and might have to get creative with the radius arms or mounts. Going to need some 4*or 7* bushings as well. You can cut and plate the engine crossmember and go with 2" springs, but its alot of work.
A bone stock NA IDI make more power than a a stock 12v. Slap a $400 turbo kit on there and youre right with or better than a stock PSD.
Slap a $250 turbo on 12v and make the IDI and PSD look like turds.
Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
9th gen f-series 4bt cummins/E40D/3.55 if i were to do it.
I agree with this - you need higher gears than 3.55's though.
If you want mileage, go with the 4BT. Simplicity - the 4BT is simpler than the IDI. That are rated to start at 15* F with no starting aid of any sort - not even grid heaters.
The IDI needs glowplugs.
The IDI needs an injection system every 100 to 150 thousand miles.
The IDI weighs more.
The IDI has way more moving parts.
There just might be a reason (or reasons) that IDI's are cheap.
I have a "slightly" modified 4BT in a tall, 7,500 pound F350 4X4. I always drive like a bat out of hell and yet, I have never gotten under 20mpg driving without a trailer on.
And before anyone mentions the whole "keep a Ford in a Ford" argument, Cummins engines came factory installed in Ford trucks and vans - my 4BT came out of a Ford delivery van. The IDI is no more Ford than a Cummins is.
when you say higher than 3.55's are needed,i think of 3.08's.or when you say higher,do you imply higher numerically (what i always call lower) of 4.10's?
and why are the 3.55's not enough or too much for the 4 banger?
the 6.9/7.3l idi swap into an f150 is a waste of time and effort imho when you can just buy an f250/350 that can make use of the engine and have the suspension all set to handle the heavy pig.when these trucks are so cheap to just buy one,why bother trying to put one in a light duty truck? why put an 460 in one i can understand,for a wild fun time,but what can an f150 do that an f250 with one in it already not do? pointless.this is just to me.if you've got a f150 with a blown engine and a free or near free idi and fab skills and time,hey it's your time and coin.if this is what you want.cool.i just wouldn't bother.id buy the idi truck.they're already enough project for most as is lol!
If you're looking for simple/mechanical, forget the PSD. Great engine, but it's FAR from "all mechanical"; there would be a LOT of wiring to do.
And with the possible exception of the 4BT (about which I don't have a clue), I would echo the concern about putting the other engines into a half-ton truck. Forget breaking the driveline, it's the suspension and brakes that would probably not be up to snuff (and would be more likely to kill someone upon failure).
Electrically, all you need to run the IDI is the glow plugs, fuel shutoff solenoid, and the cold advance/idle.
when you say higher than 3.55's are needed,i think of 3.08's.or when you say higher,do you imply higher numerically (what i always call lower) of 4.10's?
and why are the 3.55's not enough or too much for the 4 banger?
I should have said that better. I have an E4OD with 3.55's backing my 4BT. When running 70 MPH, I am taching too high. Running down the interstate, I think 3.08's would be nice. Now that Montana is looking at changing the interstate speed limit to 85 and two lane to 75 or 80, I am going to need 3.08's.
I guess it depends on how you drive and what the speed limits are where you live. If you ever get to the Montanabaun though, your truck is going to get really thirsty unless you have high (numerically low) gears.
ah i see.yeah it's all slow zones around here.well that's the good thing of the f150's in that regard.swap in a 3.08 rear for a dime a dozen and go.shoot,shouldn't be hard to trade even with someone for just the cost of new u-bolts.
I'm kinda stuck with mine as I can't find any way to get higher than 3.55's in my Sterling 10.25 and Dana 60. 4.10's or 3.73's with a GV OD would be nice but a little spendy.
Simplicity - the 4BT is simpler than the IDI. That are rated to start at 15* F with no starting aid of any sort - not even grid heaters.
I know they ARE but that doesn't make it any easier.
At my old work we had a '97 F750 with a 6BT in it. It had an automatic starting fluid injection system (that we never got a new canister for so it was empty) but otherwise had no starting aids.
I had to start it a few times when it was down into the teens- it would start, but you had to crank it for a very, very long time, like to the point I was afraid I was going to burn up the starter. When I had malfunctioning GP's on my IDI I had to start it once when it was about 20 degrees, had to crank it awhile too but it did start.
You cant beat the cheapness of an IDI for a swap like this. Around here, if you can find a Bread van with a 4bt, people know what they are, and you will pay too much. If the engine is pulled and on its own, they actually go for more than a fully dressed 12v does. At the end of the day, I will have less than $700 into a completely re-rung long block including the price of the engine for my bronco project. For something with the goal the OP has, unless its all out fuel mileage, the IDI bolts in, and can be done much cheaper.
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