Getting ready to do maint.. need input
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 22
From: Springfield, PA
If everything is coming out, a complete cleaning of the valley, and resealing the intake manifolds (or maybe an upgrade?). I like paint, white paint. Yeah it's a little messy, this was from last summer. But it's not for looks, it's to aid in any future leak finding..
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
I thought about it Pete but compression test is good and Blackstone showed zero coolant and zero fuel in the oil. With all the cup trouble others have had I decided to leave them alone. I may regret it later, we'll see.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
What did you clean the valley with to get paint to adhere, how's it holding up? I like the idea just not sure I'll have the time.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
When I made the list I forgot about the box of fluids sitting in the garage for about 2 months now. I will also be doing:
power steering flush (after I change the high pressure line now)
front, rear diffs swapping over to full synthetic
trans case fluid (NOT Mercon V)
complete tranny flush
power steering flush (after I change the high pressure line now)
front, rear diffs swapping over to full synthetic
trans case fluid (NOT Mercon V)
complete tranny flush
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 22
From: Springfield, PA
When I started I didn't realize just how big the drain hole at the back of the block was, so a lot of crud went down that path (had a long time EBPV solenoid leak). Anyway, I used a long screwdriver and scraper to break up the thick stuff and vacuum it out. I would start in the back by the drain so you can prevent crud from falling thru. Then it was mostly soaking it with acetone, which broke down the oils, more scraping, wiping, vacuuming. Eventually I went to simple green and water, scrubbing and letting that drain through the hole into a catch pan. Then it was a paint thinner wash & dry & repeat, using a halogen shop light to dry it. Then plain old Rustoleum oil based protective enamel with a cheap brush. Two coats and I used the halogen light to "cure" it overnight. This photo was taken today, after wiping it down from the HPOP & turbo removal. My turbo was leaking oil, so it was a mess again, but wiped up well.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
Depending on how old the line is, you might consider changing the high pressure line from the power steering pump. That seems to be the one thing everyone overlooks until it blows.
I believe Clay sells the seals you need for the fuel lines if you're ordering the other stuff from him.
I believe Clay sells the seals you need for the fuel lines if you're ordering the other stuff from him.
Is this the line in question.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 24
From: Damon (South East Texas)
It is the one with the swivel connection on the side of the p/s pump. It is the swivel joint that usually fails and the the line blows free. It goes rearward from the pump to the hydroboost. The one marked is the pressure from hydroboost to steering box.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
What Roland said. Pump to hydroboost is what you want to change since it's the one that always blows out the side of the reservoir.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
On the list are:
Oil cooler seals(it leaked last cold spell so it's time)
injectors
HPOP hoses
Riff Raff Billet wheel
Riff Raff plenum inserts
UVCH's
Vlv cover Gaskets
Passngr side fuel line(mines not leaking but has a taped up wear spot)
Hydra w/TW tunes
Glow Plugs(OEM)
oil by pass filter set up (DIY similar to Springr pop and woodnthings)
Obviously I'll need pedestal and turbo o-rings, injector o-rings, extra coolant, Seals for fuel lines(not sure what size??). Already have 4 gal T6 and filter, ELC, What am I missing supply wise?
I re-torqued rocker hardware last time I was in and will obviously torque the injectors(engine hot) this time. What else do I need to look at?????
Thanks in advance for your help,
So I've added a couple of items to the list.
power steering flush (after I change the high pressure line now)
front, rear diffs swapping over to full synthetic
trans case fluid (NOT Mercon V)
complete tranny flush
International Water pump w/filter
205 thermostat
My water pump came in today and and it has two pipe thread openings at the outlet. I will have to try a couple of different fittings at different angles once I get the old one off and can hold the new one in place to see what will work.
Since I will have the fan, water pump, turbo, valve covers, etc, etc off do you guys see anything I'm missing maintenance wise.
Fuel bowl and EBP were addressed not to long ago and fan belt is fairly new. Already ordered a new coolant temp sensor. Turbo has zero play so I'm not gonna risk screwin up a rebuild. I will do another boost leak detection when I get ready to tear into it and if plenums are leaking I will remove and reseal. I have the Ford grey RTV. Is that what is used on the plenums?
I know this is a lot of questions but I trust you guys to help[ me get it done right.
Paul
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
So I'm preping to throw some parts at my truck and would appreciate your input on things to do while I have it opened up and things to stockpile as I get ready. The idea is a little upgrade and a little preventative mtc.
I know I could get more power and better mileage with single shots but I just don't trust after market electronics. I want to be able to completely remove the chip and run off the PCM if need be so I'm staying with stock injectors. I don't need big power, want to join the 500K & beyond club like F350-6 just did, and want a little more omph when towing hence the Hydra. This is more about reliability.
On the list are:
Oil cooler seals(it leaked last cold spell so it's time)
injectors
HPOP hoses
Riff Raff Billet wheel
Riff Raff plenum inserts
UVCH's
Vlv cover Gaskets
Passngr side fuel line(mines not leaking but has a taped up wear spot)
Hydra w/TW tunes
Glow Plugs(OEM)
oil by pass filter set up (DIY similar to Springr pop and woodnthings)
power steering flush (after I change the high pressure line now)
front, rear diffs swapping over to full synthetic
trans case fluid (NOT Mercon V)
complete tranny flush
International Water pump w/filter
205 thermostat
Obviously I'll need pedestal and turbo o-rings, injector o-rings, extra coolant, Seals for fuel lines(not sure what size??). Already have 4 gal T6 and filter. What am I missing supply wise?
I re-torqued rocker hardware last time I was in and will obviously torque the injectors(engine hot) this time. What else do I need to look at?????
Thanks in advance for your help,
I know I could get more power and better mileage with single shots but I just don't trust after market electronics. I want to be able to completely remove the chip and run off the PCM if need be so I'm staying with stock injectors. I don't need big power, want to join the 500K & beyond club like F350-6 just did, and want a little more omph when towing hence the Hydra. This is more about reliability.
On the list are:
Oil cooler seals(it leaked last cold spell so it's time)
injectors
HPOP hoses
Riff Raff Billet wheel
Riff Raff plenum inserts
UVCH's
Vlv cover Gaskets
Passngr side fuel line(mines not leaking but has a taped up wear spot)
Hydra w/TW tunes
Glow Plugs(OEM)
oil by pass filter set up (DIY similar to Springr pop and woodnthings)
power steering flush (after I change the high pressure line now)
front, rear diffs swapping over to full synthetic
trans case fluid (NOT Mercon V)
complete tranny flush
International Water pump w/filter
205 thermostat
Obviously I'll need pedestal and turbo o-rings, injector o-rings, extra coolant, Seals for fuel lines(not sure what size??). Already have 4 gal T6 and filter. What am I missing supply wise?
I re-torqued rocker hardware last time I was in and will obviously torque the injectors(engine hot) this time. What else do I need to look at?????
Thanks in advance for your help,
Note to self--- do not raise pressure on boost leak checker unless your sure you have clamp tight. When that thing blows out it'll make you soil yourself.
. Glad noone was standing in front of itPulled the degas bottle, radiator, fan and shroud to give me room to work. At 5'8" I can stand on the steering linkage and it's almost the perfect heigth and makes the reach to the turbo and valve covers a ton easier.
So far:
Injectors in and 1st torque
UVCH's
Glow plugs
UVC gaskets
Billet wheel in and turbo hooked back up(what a pain, glad the Bro-in-law stopped by to help)
passenger side fuel line replaced
New Hpop hoses in
Plenum inserts in
New water pump has the extra pulley boss ground down, viton o-ring installed in the cutoff valve, and a coat of paint on it.
Sorry no pics. I was working by myself for the most of it and with all the work time feels like it's flying by.
Tomorrow comes the water pump install, oil cooler rebuild, oil by-pass filter install, and the power steering pressure line R/R and flush. If I have time there's still the diff fluids and tranny flush. We'll see.
Thanks to everyone here who has taken time to share the many how to's, especially Nicmike for the water pump write up and SpringerPop / Woodnthings for the oil bypass DIY info.
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