You can do the same thing by hooking existing wire to big lug on starte and a small jumper from that lug to the small lug. No need to switch wires under the hood.

To the op....is the Bendix throwing out when you apply power? You can test by putting power. To the case and small terminal only. If it works, apply power to the case and the copper strap coming out of the Bendix solenoid. If he motor spins the contacts in the attached Bendix solenoid are bad. Replace is easy.

 

You can do that, but some people have had problems with the starter grinding a little bit after they release the key. They found out after the key is released, the starter motor can generate a little bit of power as it's winding down and keep the solenoid activated for a second or so, making the bendix stay out too long. It's a small thing, but it can shorten the life of the starter bendix. Just that little bit of extra wire going up to the other fender solenoid can be enough to dampen it out.

 

Hey guys my Bronk is Alive!!! Woo Hoo Matey. I got the 10 tooth starter drive
in for a 1.9 Escort engine. Put it on one of the 9 tooth starters I had
already over-sized the top hole on. I twisted the starter in as much as
it would go. Maybe a 1/16. And this truck starts like new. I can just barely
hear the starter crank the engine it is so smooth. Life is good when you live
it with a running Bronk.
Did I say I love my Bronk. I am still looking to swap the C6 out for a 5
speed. So I am looking for an F150 with a 5 speed I can strip all I need
from. I have yet to find one local to me so I am open for anything you
all can come up with. I think 86 to like 97 but not sure. 4X4 of course.


The Minnie Starter I could never get to work. Not sure why I can't get my
head into the two solenoid thing. I don't think there is anything wrong with it.
And it is a 10 tooth unit so I will figure it out. But for now she seems to start
as good or better than new.
So a trip to town tomorrow for badly needed supply's and meds will tell me if
she will hold for a bit. Until I get a 5 speed donor rig to make the trans swap
would be great.
Finding one in the PNW could very well work for me. I am that desperate to
pay shipping a complete truck up here to do this.

 

Woo hoo, congrats!

I think the ZT5 started in 1987 or 88 but there are two variants, do your homework....

 

Thanks Chris I am here o am doing my homework right?
A ZF5 I have heard of but never a ZT5. Or was that a typo?

 

Yup, that's a typo... ZF5 is correct, sorry....

 

Well the starter was to tight. The engine hardly would crank over.
Like a dead battery. I just loosened the bolts and rolled it back as
far as it would go. It starts okay now when cold but I worry it may
not crank when hot. Town trip tomorrow so that will tell the story.
Still not found a locale truck with a ZF5 or M5OD yet. But the word
is out, flyers are up and hope something will come a long soon. Before
the money runs out. That stuff goes fast. Seems everyone needs some
when they know you have some extra.

 

good to hear it's up and going, I had no luck with putting a mini starter on mine either; no problem with bolt up or wiring but the gear missed by a bunch, 1/8" maybe

 

Trev, Was it a 9 or 10 tooth drive on it? I may have to take my modified
10 tooth out and install an unmodified end frame back on it so it will be
back in the stock position. It's still meshing to tight and don't want to
spin over. It starts so well that it works when cold okay. But I have my
doubts it will work when hot. I may have to back the timing off a bit. Or
it could kick back and break something. Or maybe this battery is toast as
well. I just have to use her a bit and let her talk to me some more.

 

Okay, so I am a bit upset with myself here. I had thought I had my starter
problem fixed. But the damn truck would still just barely start when dead cold.
The starter was meshing great. I thought maybe to well and binding. I tried 3
known good battery's from my diesel bus and all the same. No start when
hot until it cooled down and that with a boost. Sooo yesterday I drive to town
and shut it off in front of the Napa store. And of course it wont restart. I find out they
don't have a battery load tester to use unless I want to buy one. They used there
hand held tester and said the battery was fine. So I bought new cables and installed
them and still no start. I have cleaned my old cables to the point they are getting
thin. So as I had planed I asked for a new battery. Napa said they had taken one
in the day before that tested good and I could buy it. A blue top Optima for $100.
Ya it looked new with the red plastic seal still on the pos post. Once installed the
Bronk started so fast it scared me. I ran it around to heat it up to the point that
it would never start. Shut her off and she fired up several times great. Now I can
finally say that problem is behind me. Or is it? Why did it eat 3 deep cycle
industrial battery's in the first place? So next step is to install a gauge to see if
it is overcharging. Even though I got a hell of a deal on the Blue Top there is
no sense in smoking it if it can be helped. Right? Also know that the 3 bus battery's
are about 6 years old and have mostly set dead or close to it in the bus.

 

Well "The Bronk" has made several trips to town now and
just like a real car I can shut it off and restart whenever.
It's so great that I just had to tell someone. Now I can move
on to the next repair. Maybe the pass side tail pipe, Or the
inside rear view mirror. Or maybe the brake rotors as I have
them here. Just need another new set of pads. Maybe an oil
change and lube. I love it when nothing major needs work. But
there is always something that could use attention it seems.

Thanks for the help on the starter Guys. FTE ROCKS

 

10 tooth, early 90s 351 application from O'Rs; problem was in the location of the pinion within the index ring, about an inch nearer the bottom of the circle and appears to be in same alignment as the pinion in the old style starters according to the mounting holes. Puts the pinion too low.

I asked some where if there is different clocking on the PMGRs but did not get an answer.

For the present I have one housing that works and it will be moved from starter to starter as needed. FWIW, a local starter guy said the problem is maybe alignment of tranny and engine, said the dowels could allow that much misalignment. Mine is as built at factory and worked fine for a lot of years so I didn't bite.

 

Yes it's either the dowels or the wrong block plate in mine.
But this 10 tooth 1.9 Escort drive on the stock 9 tooth
starter is working great. Now that I installed a new battery
also. I still need to do a tune up with new plugs and carb adj.
Than play with the timing a bit. The worst thing about this
whole deal is that I had to get towed home with an S10 Chev.
I pray never again.
Thanks again for your help Trev. Maybe this thread will help
others as it has me. Life is great when your Bronk works I say.