I posted this in my Bronco thread but the Mod in the bra said
I should move it here.


.
So okay I had to get a tow from an S10 the day before
yesterday. Sad but true. The Battery went bad and in the
proses of diagnosing that the low volts got the starter to
slip a little. A few months ago I drilled out the upper starter
bolt hole and again pried the starter hard over on top and
closer to the ring gear. It has been working great. Until the
battery took a dump. When the storm passes I will drill out
my spare starter and see if she will go again. As the one in
here was just too worn to catch any at all. If this don't work
than I am in need of replacing the ring gear again. Not fun in
the back yard in winter in Alaska. None of the local shops have
time or any interest in doing it. But I want a 5 speed in the worst
way. I could have bump started it the other day If I had a manual
and not have lost any face. So what to do. Is the Block/indexing
plate the cause of eating starter drives and ring gears? Will it go away
if I again replace them? And where do I find a donor 1/2 ton 5 speed
in the mid 80's to part out for the trans swap? There just isn't one on
this rock to be had. So I have to find one in a salvage yard in the
Seattle area. And hope they will send everything I need.
So here is the big question we are waiting for. Is there any among you
in that area willing to help?

Link to my Bronco thread here

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15079067

 

Are you sure you have the correct starter? I believe there are different ones for a manual tranny and a automatic tranny.

 

I have had 6 or 8 starters and as many starter drives I have used.
I always tell them it's a C6. Until I drilled out the top hole to bring
it closer to the ring gear it would grind and sound like it was about
yo slip. Until it did. Once I drilled it out and turned it in it worked about
6 months like it should until the batt went bad and I had to crank on
it with it weak. That knocked out the best one so far. I wonder if it
isn't the wrong block plate. Is that possible?

 

So? Anyone? What is my problem if with a new ring gear and starter that
I have to drill out the top hole and twist the starter into the ring gear?
What is worn or the wrong part or what ever? Is something amiss with the block
plate that is suppose to index the starter to the ring gear? If not than what could
it be? I will drill out the spare starter and see if I can get it to work long enough
to get the Bronk to whom ever to do the tranny swap to the M5OD. Please
any Ideas at all Guys. I know we have been over this before but I don't remember
getting an answer I understood. Any input or info would be so great right now.
Having the Bronk inop is almost like having just lost my dog. I am really at a loss.

 

The starter mounts to the tranny. You will need a different starter when you put the manual in. All your problems may then go away with the new tranny.

 

Yes Dave I am sure they will. But until then I want to drive it.
So still trying to figure out what is wrong. Are there different
block plates? But as it bolts to the tranny how would the block
plate make that much difference? Two bolts with out any play
except what little slop is in the starter end frame holes. I have
ran this setup before without a block plate and it worked better
than what I have now. It wasn't perfect as the starter would hang
and stuff like that. But it never slipped.

 

So Dylan turned me on to a member that I contacted. He seems interested
in scrounging the JY parts I will need for a 5 Speed swap. So I hope with the
last PM I sent we can get this ball rolling.
But Dave I will play with the new starter I have and hope with some mods
like over-sizing the holes I can get this rig to spin off again for a bit while
waiting on parts and funds. Any thoughts you can think of relating to what is wrong
would be so greatly accepted.

 

Over the years I've encountered a few stubborn trucks that would screech and occasionally eat drives. An old trick we used to do at the shop was replace the stock 9 tooth starter drive with a 10 tooth drive. The 10 tooth drive is slightly larger in diameter with the extra tooth and will often correct the clearance problems. I believe the 10 tooth drive was used on mid 80's to early 90's Ford Escorts with the 1.9 engine. It will fit into your housing without any problem, only takes a few minutes to swap them.

 

Now that sounds like great info Rowdy. I will take your info to Napa.
But I bet they hit me with the parts store blank stare with there mouth
open. But if it's out there I will find one. Will the 10 tooth drive fit
the 9 tooth starter?

Numberdummy Bill where are you?

 

You can replace the ring gear only on a M/T flywheel, but you cannot replace the ring gear only with the A/T flexplate as it's made as part of it.

351W uses a different starter for A/T than it does with M/T.

Tricky, I sent you an email 2 days ago...asking for your phone number.

 

Bill, the starter he mentioned in post 169 for the Escort 1.9 engine.
Will this work? Do ya have a part number? Will the starter drive fit
the Auto starters I now have for the 351W?

I have to leave for a few hours right now. Will check back this afternoon.

 

1.9L 4 cyl. starter and starter drive not the same as a 351W

 

The 10 tooth drive will fit your 351W starter. They won't list that drive fitting your application but it will fit your starter without any issues. I've been a mechanic for over 20 years and have done that swap many times over the years, its an old trick we used to use to solve clearance issues. The complete Escort 1.9 starter will not fit your 351W though; they are completely different but the drive will. Just pull the nose off your starter and swap drives. I can't guarantee it will fix your problem but they cost under $15 so its worth a shot. Its been a few years since I've done it but I believe the drive you want fits '85-'90 Escorts with the 1.9 engine.

 

Thanks Rowdy. I will get one the next trip to town.
It's cheap so worth a try.

 

I posted this in my other thread but hope to get some input here as well.

Originally Posted by oddfordjunkie
A lot of work to remove the block plate, but if you do then you'll know for sure which size ring gear you have.

I find it odd that the starter can move over at all, the block plate shouldn't allow that to happen unless you've trimmed the starter opening in it. Maybe if you move the new starter over you could use something to fill the void and prevent it from backing away.


Okay Guys I have the new starter that would not engage the ring gear
out. I drilled the top hole oversized as I did the last one that worked so
well. Now with what John has said I wonder if I should grind some off
the block plate to try and let it come in some or not? I have the dremal
tool out and ready but I wonder. What's you all thoughts on this? It's like
a wind chill of Damn cold out there and wet and muddy. Chating on here
is much more better than crawling back under. I had my GF under there
at first but she couldn't break the bolts loose. This tells me that it had not slipped.
They was damn tight plus a half turn when I finally went under
and broke them loose. My fear is even with the oversize top hole that
the block plate will still keep it from rolling in enough to make it
engage. The ring gear still looks like new with just a slight shine to
the outer edge of the teeth. The old starter drive was about 25% ground
off though. I guess the drive is a bit softer than the ring. Or being smaller
takes the wear. IDK. What say you?